Jump to content




Photo

A seemingly endless variety of Mabuchi 16D motors


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 12 May 2019 - 08:23 AM

     I don't know if this motor was for slot cars, but without any obvious way to mount it (aside from a hold down clip), this one doesn't seem as though it would have been.  There aren't even any mounting holes in the end bell.  It's also something of an "in between" variant.  While it says "MADE IN JAPAN", the end bell is clearly of the type used in the Hong Kong produced motors.

 

IMG_3643.JPG IMG_3642.JPG IMG_3641.JPG

     When you open it up, what you find is a typical Mabuchi/Japan armature would with what looks like around #33 wire.  The armature has the fiber stack end insulators, as opposed to the coated stacks in the Hong Kong motors, So, essentially, this is a "Russkit 23" with a better end bell and a plated can as opposed to a painted one...and a different wind of course.  By carefully prying the can ground strap away from the can and bending it forward, you get a perfectly acceptable lead wire tab.

     Opening it up, you find a typical Mabuchi "bearing" in the end bell...along with typical Mabuchi magnets.  The com is also of the same type as the earlier Japan-produced Mabuchis...so this seems to be an "in-between" motor.  Maybe it was produced later during the time when Mabuchis were made in Japan and before they were produced in Hong Kong...but who knows?  Anywho...all the stuff you need to make a lovely period-type motor is there, except that a period-type bracket would need to reamed-out to fit the larger "Champion-sized" end bell bushing carrier, and a set of holes drilled for mounting.

IMG_3644.JPG


  • slotbaker, Peter Horvath, C. J. Bupgoo and 1 other like this
John Havlicek




#2 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 12 May 2019 - 01:21 PM

I figured that, while drilling some mounting holes, I may as well ream out a bracket for this motor and make it sort of a "scratchbuilder's special" or something like that.  :)  While drilling the end bell, I also figured I may as well tap it for 2-56 machine screws.  The bracket center hole is a nice snug fit, pretty much a snap fit, which should make for a nice solid lockup.

IMG_3646.JPG


  • slotbaker, Peter Horvath, olescratch and 2 others like this
John Havlicek

#3 Geary Carrier

Geary Carrier

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 614 posts
  • Joined: 23-April 16
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Location:CT

Posted 12 May 2019 - 01:49 PM

Hi John,

 

What are you going to do where the tab was spot welded?


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#4 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 12 May 2019 - 05:04 PM

Hi Geary...probably nothing.  Maybe hit it with a fine Scotchbrite Dremel pad, but the can is otherwise minty and the plated finish is worth saving.


John Havlicek

#5 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 13 May 2019 - 05:37 AM

     The can cleaned-up nicely.  I used a fine Scotchbrite buff on the mark where the tab had been welded, as well as on the rest of the top so it all looked the same.  Then some "leaning into it" with a felt wheel and some buffing compound removed most of the Scotchbrite marks/scuffing.

     As with the similar Mabuchi cans (*Russkit 22/23 type), I removed the blind bushing and reamed the hole out to 5mm.  I then installed a 5mm oilite into the hole which was a nice tight fit, using a press and some epoxy to seal the deal.  The end bell's junk "bearing" was tossed for a nice snug Champion oilite.  Not only is the end bell bushing area similar to the Champion, but the Champion bushing is a nice snug fit.

     For magnets, I went with a pair of the thick/blunt-tipped ones shown.  I forget where they come from, but they used a one-piece cage-type retainer, and if you can get them, they're very nice for these motors.  Strengthwise, they're a solid 20%+ over the stock Mabuchis, and their thickness also allows for a nice tight "hole" with smaller diameter arms.  I won't be using the stock arm for a rewind here, but even if I did, the Mabuchi lams' around .500" O.D. would be fine.  A larger diameter arm finishing at around .513" will be even better.

     I have some more stuff to take care of on the end bell, but the basic setup is ready, and I can build and space an arm for the old girl.

IMG_3647.JPG


  • Pablo, Peter Horvath, olescratch and 2 others like this
John Havlicek

#6 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 13 May 2019 - 01:38 PM

End bell is drilled for cooling/inspection, hoods are soldered, and post protectors installed.  Oh and...I turned down the heads of the 2-56 mounting screws a bit to make sure they can seat.

For the arm, I did 45/28 (*"58") with 25 degrees advance.  With these magnets, it should make for about all a period chassis can handle, but also a very fast and fun ride with a more modern chassis.

IMG_3649.JPG


  • team burrito, Peter Horvath, boxerdog and 5 others like this
John Havlicek

#7 olescratch

olescratch

    olescratch

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 977 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ravenna, OH

Posted 14 May 2019 - 01:40 PM

I have a question that I hope will not show too much of my lack of knowledge, how do you know what a wind is by only using two numbers? I mean how are we to know if an 85 wind is designating 18/25, 28/25, 38/25,or 48/25?
John Stewart

#8 zipper

zipper

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,088 posts
  • Joined: 11-August 10
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Finland

Posted 14 May 2019 - 02:03 PM

Common knowledge - but just with thicker wires; there the winds don't differ too much.


Pekka Sippola

#9 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,198 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 14 May 2019 - 03:30 PM

I have a question that I hope will not show too much of my lack of knowledge, how do you know what a wind is by only using two numbers? I mean how are we to know if an 85 wind is designating 18/25, 28/25, 38/25,or 48/25?

Hi John,

     There's a little assuming going on here.  An "85" wouldn't make much sense as 28/25 or 38/25 etc.

 

 

Common knowledge - but just with thicker wires; there the winds don't differ too much.

 

Hi Pekka,

     You lost me there.


John Havlicek

#10 olescratch

olescratch

    olescratch

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 977 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ravenna, OH

Posted 15 May 2019 - 01:59 PM

  Me too!


John Stewart





Electric Dreams Online Shop