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U-Go Hemi Thingie


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#51 Jairus

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 02:52 PM

How about rivets, rust and peeling paint?

Sort of a rat rod Choti.
 


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#52 Pablo

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 03:55 PM

Sounds great  :good:  :sun_bespectacled:

 

Bill, I was actually considering your idea, I like it, maybe on my next build  :)


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#53 Pablo

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 06:49 PM

Braids installed, pins bent

 

IMG_2628.JPG

 

Choti #15 body is trimmed and pinned, ready for a trip to Jairus' house of paint magic  :)

 

I found another #15 (albeit a sistership sans gunship turret aft) that will serve as a test monkey body this Saturday

 

IMG_2633.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#54 Pablo

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 05:13 PM

Test monkey body won't fit - the lack of cockpit/engine bubble is a no-go with the big Hemi. So I'll set it aside for a future build, and go to "plan B" - a Ralph Thorne GTP body. It's the closest thing I have to give me a rough idea of any major tuning the car needs. I'll bet Ralph never dreamed one of his race bodies would end up over an inline scratchbuilt chassis and a Hemi  :crazy:

 

IMG_2635.JPG


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#55 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2019 - 08:47 PM

Question: after a track test, does it seem like I automatically call every car a "great handler with perfect power, a joy to drive, no tuning necessary right out of the box" ? Usually, they are. This one runs nice but it does need some changes. The good news is, I know exactly what it needs to be perfect  :)

 

Good news:

-Havlicek Hemi absolutely perfect, good horsepower for this car, very smooth, plenty of brakes, temperature dead cool
-7/27 gears with .760 OD wheels - perfect gearing

 

Needs improvement:

-aluminum flag keeper is not good
-right lead wire drags up front
-Dynamic flag isn't right for this car, needs a more modern flag
-lead chunk disconnected after a deslot
-front axle torsion wires need to be changed to lighter wire like .020

 

IMG_2646.JPG

 

This is all easy fix stuff. The actual body is in Jairus' good hands, and I know what I need to do  :good: 
 


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Paul Wolcott

#56 bluecars

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Posted 08 July 2019 - 09:51 AM

I made some laps with it and it was stable and fast (maybe to fast for that track) but for that type of car I give it an "A".


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#57 havlicek

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Posted 08 July 2019 - 02:53 PM

I have to say that I'm really surprised that the motor worked well.  Those itty bitty brushes and super flimsy springs threw me for a loop.  No doubt Pablo nailed the gearing and whatnot, and that's MAJOR.


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John Havlicek

#58 Pablo

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Posted 10 July 2019 - 10:14 PM

Junked the 032 front axle torsion wires and lead chunk, then made a new cardboard pattern that extends farther aft.

Made a new chunk and tinned a length of .025 wire to make new torsion springs for the front axles

 

IMG_2669.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#59 Jaeger Team

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 02:12 AM

Junked the 032 front axle torsion wires and lead chunk, then made a new cardboard pattern that extends farther aft.

Made a new chunk and tinned a length of .025 wire to make new torsion springs for the front axles

 

attachicon.gifIMG_2669.JPG

.025 wire for torsion springs?

you wrote .020 in the improvement list !

:)


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#60 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 06:13 AM

With  the .032 front axle torsion wires (springs), did the car drive like it had a solid front axle?


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#61 Pablo

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 07:46 AM

I'm almost out of .020. .025 will be fine  :D

 

Bill, the best way I can describe it is, I've raced on Billy's track long enough to just sense when the front wheels are not helping the car. Just a little less downward push is all it needs, along with a little more weight up front.


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#62 Pablo

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 08:17 PM

Front end of the new lead weight prevented the Parma flag from fully rotating - but a RF Swiss weighted flag allows full 45 degree rotation  :)

 

IMG_2673.JPG

 

Lead weight is soldered in permanently. A piece of tinned .039 wire across the midsection is only soldered to the wire inner rail and outer perimeter wires. It does triple duty:

-nests an additional set of body mount pin tubes

-newly located earring keeper lead wire gizmo

-strengthens the midsection and stiffens it; theoretically promoting less grip and more drift, which this chassis needs

 

IMG_2689.JPG

 

.025 wire torsion method for the front axles is mucho better this way, a very soft push. When inverted, the wheels droop against the effect of the wires - that's how soft it is, and where did I learn that? From Tony P.  :good:

 

IMG_2688.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#63 Pablo

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 08:48 AM

Team Associated iron chunk and Pablo emblem are JB Welded atop the lead chunk. That completes my list of improvements and she's ready for re-assembly

 

IMG_2703.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#64 Pablo

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 06:28 PM

Old skool brass nut is more precise and fits the body better than the aluminum gizmo. All rotating flag surfaces re-faced, Swiss flag blueprinted but it really didn't need much. The motor snugged up nice and tight/precise, kudos to the backing plate can gizmos Havlicek installed  :clapping: Ready for the body. Track test #2 (on my birthday) 3 August at The Dungeon Raceway

 

IMG_2715.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#65 Pablo

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Posted 15 July 2019 - 07:36 PM

Anybody can paint a shiny fancy body, but it takes a master like Jairus to make a barn find hot rod like this  :shok:

Looks like it came from deep inside a mad slot car scientist's cave  :ph34r: I love it :sun_bespectacled: Here is the "Rat Rod Choti #15"

 

2v2ECLED2xubMLY.jpg


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Paul Wolcott

#66 mike1972chev

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 05:06 AM

Looks like that body has been stored in a shed since 1965........ I have seen that SAME patina on a Radio Flyer and a Whizzer bicycle.  I love it. ;) 


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#67 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 04:56 PM

I opened the baggie, ready to add an extra set of pin holes, filament tape and mount The Rat Rod body. Jairus had already taped it  :D

 

IMG_2817.JPG

 

Whatever grey primer he used sure seems to have made the body tougher (which it did need) :D  Notice the sick green-colored O-rings I found at O'Reilly auto parts  :)

 

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The top antique patina-type paint I think will create some mini-turbulence swirls increasing downforce. This paint job is considerable sicker (in a positive way) than I had thought. The barn-find effects are absolutely stunning wicked. If you look close, notice what appears to be backsplash drops of some chemical - looks like bubbled acid - that's realism, Bunky  :D

 

IMG_2811.JPG

 

The pipe extensions are actual aluminum tubes  :D 

 

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The car is now for sale, PM me with offers


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Paul Wolcott

#68 Rotorranch

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 06:09 PM

I don't need it... But I like it.

 

$40.00?

 

Rotor


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#69 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 06:25 PM

I said PM  :sarcastic_hand:


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#70 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 06:37 PM

Jeff, did you steal the name "Rotor" from Parma, or did they steal it from you? :laugh2:


Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#71 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 07:33 PM

SOLD and I'm giving Slotblog double it's usual tip, 10% instead of 5% of my profit  :)


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#72 Rotorranch

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 05:39 AM

I said PM  :sarcastic_hand:

I thought I was! DOH!!!  :dash2: 


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#73 Rotorranch

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 05:46 AM

Jeff, did you steal the name "Rotor" from Parma, or did they steal it from you? :laugh2:

Bill, I've been called "Rotor" since the late '70's, due to my penchant for Mazda's Rotary engines. So I was a "Rotor-head" before Parma's Rotor motor.

 

Rotor


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#74 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 08:37 AM

Thanks Jeff, Parma's "Rotor" is now pretty much dead. My son flew drones for the.Army in the Middle East. Some of them have rotary engines too.


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Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#75 Peter Horvath

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 07:47 AM

Awesome car, Pablo. Excellent body, Jairus.


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