57 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I've always admired Mike Morrissey of Team Russkit and Bob Braverman the scratch builder/machinist both from the Golden Age of slot cars.

 

I got the idea of combining Braverman's late 1964 idea of a tube frame sidewinder with 16D Mabuchi motor as a stressed member.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

...............with the late 1965 - early 1966 design and components of Mike Morrissey's "Team Russkit Build's to Win" article:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to wrap it up in a Russkit Chaparral 2 body:

 

 

This is the early first generation Russkit Chaparral without the chin spoilers and air scoop on the windscreen:

 

 

 

I've always thought Russkit adding all the detail pieces was a bonus that made their bodies a step above:

 

 

Time to start building

[don.siegel]

Fascinating stuff Rick, will be looking forward to it. Not sure how you're going to combine those two very different chassis either... 

 

Didn't know that Russkit made this version of the Chappy. 

 

Don 

[Pablo]

Ultra cool 

 

Please could you explain the bonding process of the antique decals when you get to that stage?

I tried it recently using Testors decal bonder and it didn't work for me at all.

[dc-65x]

Hi Don,

 

I'm going to try and use the lower CG style of the Morrissey chassis. It's still not as low as the "jaildoor" style that was developed a bit later in 1966, but it is lower than the "space frame" style of the Braverman chassis.

 

I'll be putting the decals on the outside of the body Pablo. I did it that way back in the day. I don't know if what I do will relate to doing it on the inside.

 

I've had good luck using Microscale's Micro Set to clean the area on the outside of the body where the decal will go and setting the decal down on a drop of the stuff. I also use a light coat of Testors clear gloss lacquer on the decals before I apply them......a tip from Jairus.

 

I have to say that I will most likely use new decals from perhaps Patto's to get the livery I'm after. It's certainly not strictly vintage but I do the best I can with what I can find.

[Don Weaver]

Been waiting for another of your builds...  

 

Don

[Dave Crevie]

Good stuff. Right from the "piano wire" era I was most active in. Have a bunch of that style car, built when

I was a teenager. Been trying to put them all back together.

[dc-65x]

Like Braverman's sidewinder, the motor will be permanent part of the frame so I need to get it figured out first. Starting with a Russkit 23 motor and Simco end bell, brushes, brush spring and bearings:

 

 

Magnets are by French/Tradeship:

 

 

Now to spice things up a bit, a factory low voltage armature. This mystery arm has neutral timing but only meters .8 ohms (a stock Russkit 23 arm is about 2-3 ohms). I have a similar looking arm in the package which says it's 4 1/2 volt - 75 turns of #31 wire     : 

 

 

I tied the comm, wires to the comm, epoxied the whole thing and gave it a static balance job:

 

 

I know these Mabuchi comms are thin but it was so out of round I decided to diamond turn it. One of the three segments was several thousandths low. The brushes must really be bouncing around in the stock motors.

 

I assembled the motor to test it before I tear it down to build the chassis. Now this motor screams a sweet song like a period Mura.   

 

Time for the chassis..........

[Dave Crevie]

I use Champ Decalset to lock on the water slide decals. It's sold at hobby shops that have model railroad

supplies. It actually desolves the film and sets the print permanently.

 

There was a pretty big debate back in the day about which was better; piano wire or brass tubing. My

feeling was that the piano wire could take a harder hit. But it was harder to solder and work with. I have

some of each, built about the same time. Some of these are restored, so I will post some pics as soon

as I can.

[dc-65x]

Piano wire is definitively stronger than brass pin tube Dave. But brass tube was used in both period builds. I was in Southern California in the 60's (as were Morrissey and Braverman) and I remember using lots of brass tube and then brass rod.

 

The first brass tube I'll be using is 7/32" stuff to house these axle bearings:

 

 

Braverman's method of attaching the rear axle is a bit complicated:

 

 

I found that soldering the 7/32" OD tube directly to the motor can gave me a perfect gear spacing for these gear sets. I'm using vintage Weldun spur and modern Sonic pinion gears:

 

 

All three gear sets have a total tooth count of 72T so they all have the same "center distance". I'll have 3 different gear ratios even with the rear axle tube soldered to the can. Here's the setup for that:

 

 

I used a long armature shaft and a gear set at each end of the motor just to make sure the axle would be parallel with the armature:

 

 

Here's the axle tube soldered to the can along with a bit of 1/16" stuff as a bullet proofer:

 

 

 

Morrissey style main rails are next............

[don.siegel]

Good idea Rick. I always thought that some of Bob's joints, butt-soldered like that, were a bit fragile - and not easy to align! Of course, maybe he used a jig, but didn't show it in the photos, or he just had good eyeballs! 

 

A great project... 

 

Don 

[Dave Crevie]

Rick; I have both styles. I tried everything I could to gain an advantage. I just wasn't as good a driver as the top guys in

this area. I'll post pictures soon, but can't do that from this computer. Some have very unique motors. And brought some

equipment back from the L.A. tracks that wasn't yet available in the Midwest. Today, just chillin' and watching that boring

roundy-round race with a friend (female, who doesn't share my interest in cars but at least tolerates it). Tomorrow I will

be back at my house and I'll try to get some of those shots posted. 

[dc-65x]

OK, here goes with the front of the chassis. I'm using the Morrissey style of 2-rail per side chassis. There are 2 outter rails down low with a 90 degree bend up the the outside of the front axle tube. The 2 inner rails are higher up and angle down to the outer rails and bend back up the front axle:

 

 

I used a 3/32" tubes across the front of the can to attach the rails to:

 

 

I tried a new method (for me anyway) to bend the rails up the axle in the right place. I clamped the jig axle across the tubes and used the groove in the scale of my combination square to simply pried the easy to bend tube upward. Neato!

 

 

Jigged up for soldering the front axle tube:

 

 

The inner rails and drop arm pivot tube soldered in place:

 

 

The drop arm is next.........

[Jairus]

Very nice project Rick!
Those old vintage motor bits are getting harder and harder to find these days.  Drop a line if you need something.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Jairus.

 

Here's the center section all cleaned up and waiting for a drop arm and body mounts:

 

 

 

Reminds me of an Alaskan dog sled.       I better get the rest of the goodies hung on it soon.

[Bill from NH]

Rick, this is progressing nicely!

[Pablo]

 

[dc-65x]

 

[Bill from NH]

You can still buy scratchbuilt ash dog sleds in this area of the country. Some of these places also make snowshoes. 

[dc-65x]

I'll make the drop arm instead Bill......

 

Here are the parts for it:

 

 

I wanted to make something a bit different and came up with this:

 

 

A closer look:

 

 

 

The body mounts will wrap this chassis up........

 

 

[Pablo]

   

[Bill from NH]

Will the body mounts have holes similar to the drop arm? You have the other chassis side that could be used for a pattern.

[dc-65x]

Bill, I thought about using some Buzco 1/4" brass strip with holes in it. But I decided on making them more like what Mike did:

 

 

I am going to add a single pin tube outrigger to help straighten out the sides of the 50+ year old body.

[Jairus]

And the old vintage guys are saying: "Why didn't I think about that"? 

Beautiful drop arm Rick!

[dc-65x]

Thanks, I really like the look to.

 

Here are the body mounts fresh from soldering:

 

 

I should have it all cleaned up tomorrow.............

[SpeedyNH]

Rick, to this day I still can't believe your solder joints. even the fillets. nice work!

speedy