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Brake relay retrofit to a PM dual transistor controller


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#1 iti20090

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 03:41 AM

I have finally settled on the Professor (commercial track) dual transistor controller as my absolute favourite for non magnet plastic car/track racing, routinely raced with full brakes.

 

I just cant help feeling that the 1/32 Difalco controller has a teeny bit better ability to dive in to the corner with the ESP relay braking so would like to retro fit a home brew relay version to my Professor controller.

 

Plenty of circuit diagrams for a full throttle blast relay but might someone have a brake relay circuit for me?

 

Thanks and regards

Dave

 

 


Dave Greer




#2 mreibman

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 05:45 AM

Funny, I have been pondering about the same idea for the last couple of days.

I haven't set to task on this as yet, but let's consider just a couple of details:
- A bypass switch. Gives you the option to use of not use the brake relay.
- A variable brake using a potentiometer. Where is it situated? The relay would be boss when engaged.
- Use of a micro switch to trigger the relay vs the common trigger hitting brake contact. (This was something I dealt with in setting up a drag full throttle blast relay)

I believe the micro switch would provide a simpler solution.

I also believe that the wiring would be similar to.the full throttle relay, but reverse the white and red wire positons.

I will mock it up by tomorrow and confirm for you if you like.
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Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding womp.
More powerful than a 36D
 
 


#3 iti20090

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 07:09 AM

Magic, thanks muchly.

 

Correct the Difalco has a micro switch and retains the normal potentiometer brake option for non relay braking.

 

I did explore this way back, got hold of some suitable micro relays and then seem to have mislaid the homework I did at the time.

 

Look forward to it, thanks  :)

 

Funny, I have been pondering about the same idea for the last couple of days.

I haven't set to task on this as yet, but let's consider just a couple of details:
- A bypass switch. Gives you the option to use of not use the brake relay.
- A variable brake using a potentiometer. Where is it situated? The relay would be boss when engaged.
- Use of a micro switch to trigger the relay vs the common trigger hitting brake contact. (This was something I dealt with in setting up a drag full throttle blast relay)

I believe the micro switch would provide a simpler solution.

I also believe that the wiring would be similar to.the full throttle relay, but reverse the white and red wire positons.

I will mock it up by tomorrow and confirm for you if you like.


Dave Greer

#4 mreibman

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 09:18 AM

I would suggest to anyone who wants to work on controllers to build a test rig like described in this post: http://slotblog.net/...ollers-at-home/


Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding womp.
More powerful than a 36D
 
 


#5 drrufo

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 11:59 AM

A relay is just a bypass. It shortens the path from the panel on the track to the track. Without the relay the circuit goes thru the controller board, it can be for the brake or a power lead.

 

John Andersen


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#6 mreibman

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Posted 03 June 2019 - 10:57 AM

So, in theory, I made the relay work.

 

I used a microswitch to fire off the coil, and I could wire this either red - white or red-black. Both got me a 0 voltage reading. I was looking, however, for a negative voltage reading which I did not get.

 

In theory, theory is the same as practice, but not in practice.

 

It seems to me that I want a black-red contact like in the controller.


Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding womp.
More powerful than a 36D
 
 


#7 iti20090

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Posted 04 June 2019 - 03:32 AM

Thanks Mike

 

So, in theory, I made the relay work.

 

I used a microswitch to fire off the coil, and I could wire this either red - white or red-black. Both got me a 0 voltage reading. I was looking, however, for a negative voltage reading which I did not get.

 

In theory, theory is the same as practice, but not in practice.

 

It seems to me that I want a black-red contact like in the controller.


Dave Greer

#8 Jim Difalco

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Posted 04 June 2019 - 09:04 AM

No micro switches are used in making my brake circuit relay turn on. wiper button and the dead band on the wiper board. Red and white to the coil. red and black on the relay contacts. Relay close to the clips for the lowest circuit resistance.

 

You would have saved a lot of effort going with my 30 band, ball bearing, traction control and ... DD303 or DD304 1/32 controller. :) :)


Jim Difalco
Difalco Design
3075 NE Loquat Lane
Jensen Beach, FL 34957
(772) 334-1987
askjim@difalcoonline.com


#9 iti20090

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 07:51 AM

Thanks Jim, most appreciated as always : :)

 

No micro switches are used in making my brake circuit relay turn on. wiper button and the dead band on the wiper board. Red and white to the coil. red and black on the relay contacts. Relay close to the clips for the lowest circuit resistance.

 

You would have saved a lot of effort going with my 30 band, ball bearing, traction control and ... DD303 or DD304 1/32 controller. :) :)


Dave Greer





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