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Createx Wicked paint chipping issues - input needed


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#1 Dan Searcy

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 05:46 PM

I've been painting slot car bodies for several years now.  For a long time, I used Parma Fastcolor paint, but I have recently begun to add Createx Wicked Cololrs into the mix.  I rough up the inside of the bodies with steel wool, then I wash them with dish soap (not Dawn, just the cheap stuff).  I dry them well and mask them as the design would require. 

 

As I said I've been painting bodies for years and have not had a chipping issue until recently.  It sems to be with the Createx paint.  I thin as needed with the Createx #4012 reducer until it sprays easily in my single action Badger 200NH Air Brush.  The last batch I painted have had chipping issues upon impact and that has not been an issue in the past with Parma Paint.  It kind of doesn't make sense because I've hear that Createx makes Parma Fastcolor.  I used to dilute with water but began using the Createx reducer because it seems to spray better for me and I believe it dries quicker between coats.  Sometimes I use a hair dryer between coats to help the drying process along.

 

The chipping has occurred on Red Fox bodies and Ralph Thorne bodies, so I doubt it's the fault of the bodies.  There are usually at least a few days between the painting and using the bodies.

 

I know that some of the "pro" painters use Createx and I have not seen posts anywhere complaining that their paint jobs are chipping.  So it must be me.  I have a few questions for the group and I would appreciate any input.  

 

I live in California, just a few miles from the ocean, so the weather there is generally not too hot and not especially humid.  I usually paint on the warmer days, because sometimes we get the marine layer here and it seems to affect paint drying with water-based paints.  

 

Would the thickness of the paint affect chipping? Or thickness of the coats done,  i.e. several thin coats v. a few heavier coats? 

 

Is there a better thinner to use than Createx 4012?  If I lived in the desert, I might use a slower reducer.

 

I use fluorescent colors a lot and they are chipping.  Do fluorescent colors act differently than more opaque colors?

 

Does the dish soap make a difference?  BTW, our tap water here is softened,

 

Am I missing anything?

 

I'll post some photos later.

 

I'd appreciate any input you guys can provide.  Thanks, Dan


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 05:53 PM

Seems like you are doing everything right. The only thing I can guess is, maybe you are thinning it too much? Or maybe the liquid soap you are using has a moisturizer in it? I use Dawn because if it's good enough and gentle enough to clear oil and tar off wildlife, it's good enough for a body.

 

I had a mystery problem of my own recently, and finally found the culprit - the toothbrush I was using to scrub the body had previously been used to clean the magnet spunk off the inside of a motor can  :dash2:  :)


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#3 Dan Searcy

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 06:57 PM

I use cheap dish soap, so I doubt it has any moisturizers.  I've got 5 more masked and ready to paint today, so we'll see what happens I guess.  Thanks for the input.


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#4 Noose

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 08:16 PM

I don’t use soap. Just wipe well with IPA- isopropyl alcohol.

Never have had chipping problems with Parma or Createx paints.

I use the same reducer.

Now, I am not fond of the Wicked paints. Do not seem to flow/ work as well.


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#5 Dan Searcy

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 09:54 PM

I'll try the IPA.  I've got some that's 99+ percent%+ instead of the regular 70% sold in most drug stores.  Noose, do you find much difference in Parma and Createx?

 

Here's a car that was done a while back with all Parma paint.  It probably has 10 races on it.  The body is getting beat up, but no chips.  Thanks.

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#6 gc4895

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 08:41 AM

I gave up on the Wicked colors. I bought the fluorescent Wicked selection multi-pack and had paint chipping as I had never suffered before. I have gone back to Parma paint. No more problems, surprises or chipping.
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#7 Dave Crevie

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 09:21 AM

A light dusting of clear lacquer first might give the Createx a base to bite on. I had some problems with water based paints, and that

seemed to fix the chipping problem.


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#8 Mike Patterson

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 10:14 AM

I have never had a problem with the regular Createx paints. IIRC, the Wicked Colors are a different formulation, and require a different cleaner/thinner than the regular stuff.


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#9 John Streisguth

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 11:09 AM

I've used all of the createx line, including the wicked colors, and never had an issue.  I use Palmolive to wash the bodies, have never "scuffed" them and have never had an issue with chipping.  My bet is the soap, it's probably not rinsing clean.


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#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 July 2019 - 03:33 PM

if someone wants Dawn dish detergent cheap, I noticed this morning Dollartree had 7 oz bottles of the blue for a buck. 7 oz. will wash quite a few bodies. In the past, I've just used my wife's.


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#11 Dan Searcy

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 02:01 PM

Thanks for the help everyone!


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#12 Jairus

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 02:59 PM

Chipping can happen with lacquer or enamel or water based paints.
It's not the type or brand but the color.

Each color is different due to the elements that make that color.
Carbon black for black, red ocra for red/orange colors.
Titanium dioxide is a general element for creating white paint.

Each of these elements effect the adhesion.
The medium contributes of course... but very little.
Keep that in mind.


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#13 philk

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 05:53 PM

Seems most of the paint I’ve seen on tracks is usually fluorescent yellow.
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#14 Noose

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 07:04 PM

Good point. I know it is a problem with Pactra RC Lacquers. Have not had that problem with Createx / Parma versions. They do need to be constantly kept thin though. Sometimes I “filter” them from one bottle/jar to another to make sure no congealed little clumps are there.


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#15 MSwiss

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 08:27 AM

Seems most of the paint Ive seen on tracks is usually fluorescent yellow.

Yes, yellow, fluorescent and regular, seems to be common.

I remember cases of terrible chipping, with bodies, both local racer painted, and factory jobs from Brazil.

On multi-color jobs, all the other colors would sticking fine, and the yellow was all chipped off.
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#16 kvanpelt

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 10:10 AM

"LARRY! YOUR D... YELLOW PAINT IS ALL OVER MY TRACK AGAIN!!" :laugh2:


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#17 Aeropro

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 09:49 PM

For whatever this may be worth (if anything)....

1) I have never used water-based paints on slot cars--they dry too slowly for the mass production work that I do--so I can't address that at all.

2) I never had to wash or scuff lexan bodies, I just painted them and had no problem.

3) Fluorescent paints have always been a major pain in the ***. Fluorescent pigments don't really dissolve in lacquer solvents, so they don't stay in solution well, they tend to seed up and precipitate out rapidly, meaning that fluorescent paints tend to have a very short shelf life.I talked to the technical rep for a major commercial paint manufacturer about the problems I had been having with their fluorescent paints, and his only advice was "just wait until we perfect them"---he knew they were no good.I eventually had to start making my own: I searched until I found a source for good, high quality fluorescent pigments, mixed them with my own high-quality clear base, added extra flexing agents and solvents, and came up with a blend that worked, sort of. I had to mix them in small quantities (6 to 8 oz.) so I could use them up before they went bad, and if I didn't use them up quickly enough, I had to throw them out and mix a fresh batch. 

 

None of this is going to be terribly practical for the hobbyist who is doing just a few custom bodies, but I guess the point is don't feel too badly, it's not your fault--fluorescent paints are just miserable to work with. 


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