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Kemtron Mustang build


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#1 Geary Carrier

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 03:26 PM

I thought a drag motor might be fun.

 

Had a Kemtron Mustang lying around and an FK-480 so we will try to figure out how to make this work...

 

mustang 002.JPG

 

mustang 007.JPG

 

mustang 024.JPG

 

mustang 016.JPG

 

mustang 018.JPG


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 04:42 PM

That's one sexy looking padlock powerplant  :aggressive:  :good:


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Paul Wolcott

#3 Geary Carrier

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 11:56 PM

Thanks, Pablo.
 
Maybe a little cosmetic surgery will help further...

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#4 boxerdog

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 08:33 AM

I'm thinking another set of Mustang lams and a neo magnet maybe??? Where are you headed with this? 


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#5 Geary Carrier

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 09:09 AM

Sort of thinking three-pole arm...
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#6 Dave Crevie

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:29 PM

Looks like fun. Currently restoring an aluminum chassised drag car with an earlier Kemtron 8-volt. I want to

keep the motor original, but if I was going to change anything, it would be to a three-pole arm with the stack

length matched to the field stack length. Not sure if you will find a neo-magnet to fit. But I will be watching to

see how this all pans out.


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#7 Geary Carrier

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 02:40 PM

Looks like fun. Currently restoring an aluminum chassised drag car with an earlier Kemtron 8-volt. I want to

keep the motor original, but if I was going to change anything, it would be to a three-pole arm with the stack

length matched to the field stack length. Not sure if you will find a neo-magnet to fit. But I will be watching to

see how this all pans out.

 

Hi Dave,

 

The 3 pole arm is a tight fit inside to motor lams (< 10 mils per side) so this iteration will just use the stock magnet. Too much magnet with this clearance just might slow things down...we will see.


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#8 Dave Crevie

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 11:47 AM

You can take a little off the OD of the arm if you need to. I have another brass-endplate Kemtron with a slightly narrower

field stack width. Not sure what exactly it is, but it is another five-pole. Might try to use a three-pole arm. Might even make

some additional field lams to make it at least as wide as the motor I am using. More options.



#9 Geary Carrier

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 04:25 PM

The 480 arm was wound with close to #21 AWG wire.

Need to pull out the old shaft, resize the stack and re-shaft.

Not sure how well I can clean up the coating on the arm, but if not, I will strip and re-powder coat it.

 

mustang 001.JPG

mustang 006.JPG


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#10 havlicek

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 10:39 AM

The 480 arm was wound with close to #21 AWG wire.

Need to pull out the old shaft, resize the stack and re-shaft.

Not sure how well I can clean up the coating on the arm, but if not, I will strip and re-powder coat it.

 

attachicon.gifmustang 001.JPG

attachicon.gifmustang 006.JPG

 

 

That coating can come off with some judicious use of a wire wheel in a Dremel or similar Geary.  Best when the wheel is new, as it can make reaching into the smaller spaces easier with the longer bristles.


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John Havlicek

#11 Geary Carrier

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 05:05 PM

 

 

That coating can come off with some judicious use of a wire wheel in a Dremel or similar Geary.  Best when the wheel is new, as it can make reaching into the smaller spaces easier with the longer bristles.

 

Thanks John...


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#12 Geary Carrier

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 05:15 PM

Re-shafted with Koford 1/8 drill blank axle.

 

mustang 004.JPG

mustang 012.JPG

mustang 013.JPG


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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 August 2019 - 02:27 PM

Always fun watching a modified Padlock motor build :D :wizard:

Interesting to see what a hot 3 pole can do locked inside!
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#14 Geary Carrier

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Posted 11 August 2019 - 06:44 PM

Always fun watching a modified Padlock motor build :D :wizard:

Interesting to see what a hot 3 pole can do locked inside!

 

First one I've ever done Paul,

 

Adapted the FK-480 endbell and comm to the Mustang.

There will be a ball bearing on each end.

I found some NIB magnets so they might replace or augment the Alnico mag, maybe...

Probably going to wind with #24 wire, as many turns as I can fit...

 

mustang 001.JPG

mustang 004.JPG

mustang 006.JPG


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#15 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 August 2019 - 07:56 PM

I know this is your first padlock, just hopped up a few and enjoy seeing anyone do something different/mess with them.

So different to the can motors it's fun working out what to try next :D

There you go achieving what I've always wondered about trying, modern/standard endbell & hardware.. Sweet !!
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#16 havlicek

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 04:47 AM

Looks "PDN" Geary!  (*pretty danged neat!) 

 

 

 

I found some NIB magnets so they might replace or augment the Alnico mag, maybe..


The magnets are something to definitely look at in these motors.  I've seen some pretty wild modified padlock motors posted here, and some have the uber-strong "solid" neo magnets in them...although I don't know if those are "too strong" for what you have planned, but with #24awg wire, I doubt it!  :)


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#17 Geary Carrier

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 11:35 AM

Looks "PDN" Geary!  (*pretty danged neat!) 

 

The magnets are something to definitely look at in these motors.  I've seen some pretty wild modified padlock motors posted here, and some have the uber-strong "solid" neo magnets in them...although I don't know if those are "too strong" for what you have planned, but with #24awg wire, I doubt it!  :)

 

Thanks John,

 

Shooting for a 15mil air gap per side with about 20 degrees of com advance as a compromise for the Alnico or Neo mags, we will see what happens...


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#18 Dave Crevie

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 03:49 PM

How are you going to insulate the brush hoods from the tie screws? They will short through the cast frame at

the other end.


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#19 Geary Carrier

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 04:01 PM

How are you going to insulate the brush hoods from the tie screws? They will short through the cast frame at

the other end.

 

Both sides of the brush hoods will have holes larger than the 316 thru bolts and have a phenolic sitting on top to isolate the brush hoods on the non spring side.

 

On the spring side the ID of the spring post will be isolated from the thru bolt and will also have a phenolic on top.


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#20 Dave Crevie

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 08:56 AM

OK. Sounds like it will work. Can't wait to see how it runs.  


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#21 havlicek

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 01:10 PM

 

Thanks John,

 

Shooting for a 15mil air gap per side with about 20 degrees of com advance as a compromise for the Alnico or Neo mags, we will see what happens...

 

Sounds about right to me Geary.  I've got a very small padlock type motor here that I've kept on my bench for quite a while instead of putting it away...while thinking about doing something at least similar to what you have going on here.  Maybe this build will help me get off my butt and get buy on the little guy.  :)  Build-on!


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#22 Geary Carrier

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 01:58 PM

 

Sounds about right to me Geary.  I've got a very small padlock type motor here that I've kept on my bench for quite a while instead of putting it away...while thinking about doing something at least similar to what you have going on here.  Maybe this build will help me get off my butt and get buy on the little guy.  :)  Build-on!

 

These motors are good for more than paper weights, so you gots to build that baby...


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#23 Dave Crevie

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 09:09 AM

I certainly want to get rid of those cylindrical brushes. The motor I just did will remain unmolested, but I

will try something different with the motor I will build up from my spare parts. Might build a new frame to

go with it. Pretty close to done restoring the car that will use the stocker.


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#24 Dave Crevie

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Posted 15 August 2019 - 02:32 PM

OK. I finally got some pictures of the Kemtron 8V in the car. I know, I should have taken shots of the whole process,

but I get going on something and I hate interrupting the flow. The chassis is one I made around 1964, from aluminum

plate. I didn't like the drop arm that was on it, so I made a new one out of brass. Otherwise, I just cleaned everything

up. The aluminum was mostly corrosion free. The car wasn't run much, just couldn't compete with the Pittmans.

 

 

   IMG_0491_1.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0494_2.JPG

 

 

The original body was probably a Willys coupe, but I had this pick-up, and thought it would be a nice change. 

I still need to cast up a scoop for the injectors. I didn't like what was in the kit.

 


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#25 Geary Carrier

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Posted 15 August 2019 - 02:42 PM

OK. I finally got some pictures of the Kemtron 8V in the car. I know, I should have taken shots of the whole process,

but I get going on something and I hate interrupting the flow. The chassis is one I made around 1964, from aluminum

plate. I didn't like the drop arm that was on it, so I made a new one out of brass. Otherwise, I just cleaned everything

up. The aluminum was mostly corrosion free. The car wasn't run much, just couldn't compete with the Pittmans.

 

That is a fine looking machine Dave...


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