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16D motor building question


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#1 gc4895

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 11:56 AM

I am looking for some sage advice from the experienced motor builders out there.  I'm racing a 4" stock car class, C-43 JK chassis, fast banked style tracks are the venues on which we compete and the motor formula allows built 16D motors, ProSlot .560 armatures .  I recently epoxied my magnets and used, by mistake, my .565 slug vs. the .575 slug I normally employ.  So, what to do?  Should I use a .575 hone to open the hole OR send my armature off to Alpha and have them reduce it to .550 ?

 

Years ago I used to hone magnets all the time when I was building x-12 or 20 wing car motors so I'm familiar with that.  But I will admit to having very little experience with 16D motors and no experience having armatures reduced.   

 

Thanks!


Mark Bauer




#2 Pablo

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 12:34 PM

I say much easier to hone it. Reducing the stack OD can only be done by a pro service and that will take some time to send it in, then wait, then have it returned. Honing is easy


Paul Wolcott

#3 NY Nick

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 12:55 PM

Is the arm 518 or 560?


Nick Cerulli

#4 gc4895

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 01:01 PM

The armature is .560, standard ProSlot issue.

 

Mark


Mark Bauer

#5 Rotorranch

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 01:02 PM

Bake the setup in the toaster oven, the magnets can then be removed, cleaned up, and reinstalled with the correct slug.

 

Rotor


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#6 Racer36

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 01:36 PM

Personally I have never been happy with the performance of .560 16D arms. They don’t rev like a smaller arm and the torque isn’t there to get the performance I would expect. If I was in your position I would have Alpha cut it down to .545 or.550 and rebalance.

Dennis Dominey

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#7 John Streisguth

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Posted 22 July 2019 - 02:15 PM

The problem with grinding the arm down is then you have an odd-ball set up.  I agree with Rotor, bake the set up until it's hot and remove the magnets.  Caution on the baking: if you bake it too long, you'll probably never get it apart. I deal with epoxies all the time at work, where we do this sort of removal, and if you leave it at elevated temperature too long you'll probably end up throwing the whole thing in the trash.  Bake it for 5 minutes, check to see if you can remove the magnets, repeat until you can.

 

Or, just hone it out...


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#8 havlicek

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 05:16 AM

You can hit the can outside the magnets with a minitorch for five or 10 seconds (holding it with pliers or something other than your hands) and then tap the magnet loose, lather/rinse/repeat on the other side.  After cleaning-up the magnets and the inside of the can, reinstall everything and give the magnets a fresh zap.


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John Havlicek

#9 gc4895

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 08:52 AM

Got it. I put these magnets in using my usual, the Slick 7 epoxy which I cure in the oven for a few hours. Actually, I never tried to remove these once cured. Should be interesting.
Mark Bauer

#10 boxerdog

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 10:04 AM

I'd order up a .540 arm for that setup and build another one for the .560 arm you have, and test both of them.  You might find that you like the .540 better? 


David Cummerow

#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 12:55 PM

Can you get .540 arms for D-cans? Any .540's  I've seen were shorter stacks for C-cans. New 16D magnets, if needed, would be cheaper than a new arm.


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#12 boxerdog

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 04:50 PM

Can you get .540 arms for D-cans? Any .540's  I've seen were shorter stacks for C-cans. New 16D magnets, if needed, would be cheaper than a new arm.

Yes, you can. 

 

https://e-slotcar.co...ps-706b-38-540/


David Cummerow

#13 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 05:19 PM

Thanks David, I did not know those were available. 


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Bill Fernald
 

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