16 replies to this topic

[mickey thumbs]

I know you guys are big fans of the hakko 601. I found a Weller D440, 145-210W gun I got in 1967 at age 14 to build chassis that still works fine, even the lights! Tinned a new tip and used it for some connections on my track build. Despite its weight, is this still suitable for chassis building? Ill be using it in my home workshop, no travel to tracks. Or do I need to cough up the bucks to join the current century?

[MSwiss]

I doubt it will work for chassis building, unless you stick to a design without any large masses to heat up.

 

IOW, other than possibly the guide tongue, you might be able to build a copy of a Zap I15, wing car chassis, with one, but probably will struggle with just about any Retro chassis design.

[Bill from NH]

It'll probably build a brass rod chassis. I built my my first brass chassis with the smaller Weller gun in '68.  It won't have enough tip recovery to work with sheet materials, whose use is popular today. Since you have it, try  building something with it & see what its limitations are, but don't be surprised if you need more heat.

[Geary Carrier]

This will give you more heat...

 

[Ramcatlarry]

Butane mini-torch is my back-up to any iron for heavy chassis builds.  Tip mass and the continuous running time of the pencil 40+ watt iron is what gets most jobs done

[Bill from NH]

This will give you more heat...

 

 

 

Geary, have you  made your own short tips from 12 or 14 ga. copper electrical wire as shown in several YouTube videos? I have the wire, but haven't had a need to dig out my gun.

[Gene/ZR1]

I know you guys are big fans of the hakko 601. I found a Weller D440, 145-210W gun I got in 1967 at age 14 to build chassis that still works fine, even the lights! Tinned a new tip and used it for some connections on my track build. Despite its weight, is this still suitable for chassis building? Ill be using it in my home workshop, no travel to tracks. Or do I need to cough up the bucks to join the current century?

 

Yes your Weller can build a slot car chassis. Below is a post I done building a era correct chassis using basic tools that would have been used in the 60's with the exception of the Dewalt battery drill motor. 

 

 This Weller soldering was very popular back then, being that you only had to squeeze the trigger and you had instant heat. Some people never realized that there were 2 heat settings, first click low heat, second click was high heat, now the new version this is backwards.

 The brass\copper looking tips are the best and keep the tip nuts tight.

 

As far as the Hakko 601 it will perform well, tips seem to last for ever.  If your out to have fun and tinker in the hobby your Weller should be fine.

 

 http://slotblog.net/...-school-method/

[mickey thumbs]

Thanks for the advice and jogging my memory. The Weller was fine for fixing 1/16” tubing to Russkit motor brackets but when side pans came along I remember a massive 3/4” dia. x 1 ft. long iron and a Bernzomatic torch appearing on the bench. I don’t think my parents had any idea what was going on in their garage!
Gene/ZR1 - thanks for the trip down memory lane. My first build won’t be so elaborate. A1/32 scale brass pan built around a motor and bracket cut from a JK rtr to fit a Jaguar XJ9 hardbody. Might try to incorporate the ISO concept as I thought the Cox 1/32 rtr Lola I had back then was so cool and handled great.

[Bill from NH]

Gene, thanks for posting the above chassis-build link. I hadn't seen it before, since it was posted during a lengthy hospital stay.

[Geary Carrier]

 

Geary, have you  made your own short tips from 12 or 14 ga. copper electrical wire as shown in several YouTube videos? I have the wire, but haven't had a need to dig out my gun.

 

Hi Bill,

 

I like the nickel plated copper of the standard tips better than the plain copper wire as it is less prone to oxidation.

 

The shortened tips do produce quite a bit of heat.

[stu m]

back in the 60's i used a weller i used lay it down on my knee then i try an iron out, which was hotter and layed on my knee that was the last time i did that 

[SpeedyNH]

if I want heat I turn to a 90W Ungar.  you just have to turn it down when not immediately in use, or it flakes apart.

[Rotorranch]

I love my Ungars, but my Hakko is my go to most times.

 

Rotor

[SpeedyNH]

didn't mean I used it for everything. guess I should have capitalized Heat.

I also have on the bench a Metcal and a 50W MPJ.

[mickey thumbs]

I coughed up the bucks and bought a Hakko. The 21st century might not be so bad after all. A shiny pool of solder on a brass plate is a thing of beauty! Still need practice to knock the rust off my technique, but this is going to be fun. Early efforts show promise, but no pictures for display yet . And probably never given the beauties that appear here. You guys are the best, thanks again.

[Pappy]

back in the 60's i used a weller i used lay it down on my knee then i try an iron out, which was hotter and layed on my knee that was the last time i did that 

I was on my knees using a belt sander one time and laid it on my thigh before it stopped turning. It grabbed a chunk of meat and pulled it in which stopped it right now. I had a bruise about 9" in diameter on my thigh for awhile. That was the last time I did that too.    I also shot a 2 1/2" finish nail into my liver, I'll never have an iron deficiency. 

[jrjr]

I use an American Hakko FX600-05/P which is a 74W iron compared to the standard FX600 which is a 50W unit. It uses the easier to find t18 tips too. Works great for me!