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Rotorranch's IRRAź JKX25R Can-Am race car


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#26 boxerdog

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 08:47 AM

I think 409s are Dremel cutoffs?

 

Among other things

 

029c.JPG


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#27 NSwanberg

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 08:51 AM

She's so fine!

 


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#28 Rotorranch

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 09:10 AM

Yep... 

 

Rotor

 

s-l400.jpg


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#29 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 12:26 PM

Among other things

 

David, how do we know that's not a 348? Same head style. A friend of mine put a 348 in his '61 convertible years ago.

 

Nelson, I rarely use Dremel brand discs these days. A couple others are considerably cheaper & work just as well. Soaked in transmission fluid, they all last longer.


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 03:48 PM

Fish story for Bill - Ricky Bobby with a shellcracker

 

Ricky B. n  bluegill.jpg

 

I fired Bunky from Quality Control.  Dogs are smarter than people - ChiChi the Chihuahua spotted an error in my work. "Look at the length of that axle tube in post 22 - I thought you said you planned to use ChiTown axle collars?"

 

DSC06737.JPG

 

So I shortened it. Man's Best Friend saved the day, good thing I hadn't soldered it to the bracket yet 

 

IMG_3260.JPG

 

The late great ChiChi Wolcott

 

DSC00404.JPG

 

 


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#31 Rotorranch

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 04:07 PM

Collars are OK. I prefer aluminium tube spacers, but I was looking pretty hard at the CL magnesium collars.

 

Rotor


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 04:58 PM

With the collars you don't need to re-adjust your gear mesh during wheel changes.

 

I like my RGeo rear jig wheels, but always wished they were a hair smaller OD. Seems like my chassis barely clear .050 rear with .820 OD wheels. They mike at .714, so I shaved them down to .710. Before:

 

IMG_3261.JPG

 

And after:

 

IMG_3264.JPG


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#33 boxerdog

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 05:52 PM

 

David, how do we know that's not a 348? Same head style. A friend of mine put a 348 in his '61 convertible years ago.

 

Nelson, I rarely use Dremel brand discs these days. A couple others are considerably cheaper & work just as well. Soaked in transmission fluid, they all last longer.

 

Bill, you will just have to take my word for it! I like to tell people it's a 348. 


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 18 August 2019 - 08:26 PM

I managed to fit seven rails per side  :)

 

IMG_3274.JPG

 

Pieces of 15 thou "L" angle for some added strength bracket to rails

 

IMG_3270.JPG


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#35 bluecars

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 03:08 AM

What did you use to shave your jig wheels?


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#36 John Streisguth

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 06:10 AM

7 rails?  That's gonna be a stiff mutha... :shok:  :laugh2:


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#37 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 06:20 AM

John, he must have heard how Rotor drives, so he didn't spare the beef. :sarcastic_hand:


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 08:16 AM

Red, I CA glued them to dummy axles, chucked 'em up to a drill, and hand sanded them with 120 grit, then 320, then 400, then 2,000. Checked the OD as I went to make sure I didn't go overboard.

 

7 rails per side of .039 really surprised me how flexible it is. If anything, it may need more sfiffness. It feels like a 25 thou JK C11 flexi chassis. It will gain a little stiffness as the build continues so I think it will be nice  :)


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#39 Rotorranch

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 09:36 AM

Looks like you ought to be finished by lunchtime today!

 

:roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:

 

Rotor


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 05:42 PM

A piece of .039 wire cross-connects the rails and nose piece

 

IMG_3277.JPG

 

Pan edges trimmed parallel at .870" wide, sanded, rounded, flattened, etc.

 

IMG_3280.JPG


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#41 Danny Zona

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 05:50 PM

7 rails per side of .039 really surprised me how flexible it is. If anything, it may need more sfiffness. It feels like a 25 thou JK C11 flexi chassis. It will gain a little stiffness as the build continues so I think it will be nice  :)

I believe a 14 rail .039 chassis will be fine.
I use a 12 rail .039 JK kit chassi often and just recently built a 14 rail version.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 06:05 PM

Thanks Danny  :sun_bespectacled:


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 07:19 PM

Rotor is a "pin" guy, not a "clip" guy, so I made four 5/8" long tubes and shaved some excess "high up" meat off all four tabs

 

IMG_3287.JPG

 

Sorry for "B" grade photography, but here are your tubes, Rotor. When I use pins/tubes I always hog out the hole entrances a little just like Mike Steube. Between race heats when you are fiddling with the body, it's worth the extra effort 

 

IMG_3292.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#44 Pablo

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Posted 20 August 2019 - 06:48 PM

Jeff, I'm a fan of centralized weight. I try and make a balanced car to start with, and if it needs more weight to meet the rules I like to place it close to dead center both port/stbd. and fore/aft. I think of weight distribution like an imaginary finger that softly presses down on the car as it runs around the track. The more weight you add, the harder the finger presses.

 

All jokes aside, where you place that weight affects the handling. Put a bunch of lead up front and you are actually lifting the rear. Bunch of weight in the rear, you lift the front. So, a car that is balanced but needs more weight, I like to put it dead center. If it's too drift happy, towards the rear. Tilting out of the slot, towards the front.

 

Tricks can make the car perform better in certain places on the track, like the donut on a King, where lots of weight on the stbd. pan can work nice. Or, as a bass-ackwards example, the flat track at BP that seems to like a lot of rear weight. But let's not go there, please. 

 

This car may race on different tracks and has to perform well. That is why I love to copy Jim Fowler's shakey platform design, which I nicknamed the "Fowler Deck". It is 15 thou brass sheet, governed by .025 wires inside .032 tubes, de-coupled from the rails. It sits at ground zero so the addition of lead is low as possible.

 

Jeff, I'll probably leave the Fowler Deck virgin and let you place the weight where you want based on the track.

For now all four Fowler Deck management tubes are secured, as well as all four Tony P. style .032 pan hinge tubes atop the rails.

 

See the pencil arrows pointing at the rear deck tubes? The motor nests in there "good-n-tight". If you feel a need to stiffen the rails, I suggest you tack solder the bottom of the motor right there. Start with one side only. If it works, try doing the other side also. Just a little crazy tuning trick....

 

IMG_3293.JPG


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 09:38 PM

IMG_3303.JPG


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#46 Rotorranch

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 06:58 AM

mewje.jpg
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#47 Pablo

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 06:37 PM

Zero tolerance for drivetrain flex. Upper brace is .039; tube inner braces are .032

 

IMG_3314.JPG


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#48 Rotorranch

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 07:34 PM

But how am I gonna put a crown gear on it??? 

 

😉

 

Rotor


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#49 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 10:05 PM

409 it! :laugh2:


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Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#50 Pablo

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Posted 24 August 2019 - 06:03 PM

Bartos front axle/BB wheels set up with an .025 wire under the front edge of the chassis and an .055 wire under the rear axle. Worked out perfect, but I wish I'd used jig junk keepers instead of the ChiTown gizmos - they pit real fast with acid splash. I cleaned them up and polished with 2,000 grit to fix them, but next time I'll know better

 

IMG_3318.JPG

 

IMG_3327.JPG

 

.032 is the absolute biggest wire brace that fits inside the tubes on this bracket with a Parma 28 crown. So I sliced it close, then 409 faced it until I saw sparks (indicating wire) then stopped  :)  The port side isn't as critical because I doubt Rotor will ever use a TSR motor in this car  :laugh2:

 

IMG_3333.JPG


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