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Rotorranch's IRRAź JKX25R Can-Am race car


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 24 August 2019 - 08:13 PM

Rear BB's were soaked in lighter fluid to remove whatever mystery goop was used to factory grease them, then soldered in (the pre-tinned tubes) in perfect alignment using my RGeo (tuned) jig wheels.

 

Ready for tumbling tonight. Hey, if I don't explain my efforts to make it as perfect as I can, how is a guy gonna know if I just slammed it together, or took my time and did it right?  :unknw:  :tease:  :)

 

IMG_3348.JPG

 

Now, where did I put that doggone nail polish?  :laugh2:


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Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 09:26 AM

Out of the tumbler

 

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15 thou Fowler Deck at ground zero, managed by .025 wires wiggling inside .063 OD tubes

 

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Mini-wingies and shortened pans keep as much bulk down low as possible and pass tech.

Chi-Town 2 degree steel tongue

 

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.055 bite bars/.039 pan stops

 

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Stock JK 3/4" bracket with (modified) Chi-Town brace

 

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Paul Wolcott

#53 Rotorranch

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 09:45 AM

Looking good!!!

 

Rotor


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#54 dc-65x

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 09:46 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

Beautiful workmanship.........as usual!  :sun_bespectacled:

 

This feature really caught my eye:

 

post-91-0-87902100-1566742761.jpg

 

It reminds me of a feature on Joel Montague's 1973 Nats winning chassis:

 

clicker-1.jpg

 

The "Montague Clicker":

 

1973  Montague chassis 024.JPG

 

Neat stuff......


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#55 Pablo

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 10:12 AM

Yup  :clapping:  :D


Paul Wolcott

#56 Pablo

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 04:59 PM

Swiss flag deck is .032 so we start with three Koford 10 thou bronze spacers below, and an extra up top so Rotor doesn't even have to go back to his pit to adjust ride height

 

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9T ARP soldered home and can faced a little where the screw holes mate to the bracket face. A microdot of 271 on each JK 2mm screw

 

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Motor snugged up in perfect alignment "goot-n-tite" nested between the Fowler tubes

 

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#57 Rotorranch

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 05:24 PM

I'm Lovin this!!!

 

Rotor


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#58 Pablo

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Posted 25 August 2019 - 07:14 PM

2 coats Broadway nail polish on the Bartos fronts

 

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TQ wires soldered onto TQ flag clips, using California Loops, provide trouble-free soft self-centering without need for earring keepers

 

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#59 Jaeger Team

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 03:42 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

Beautiful workmanship.........as usual!  :sun_bespectacled:

 

This feature really caught my eye:

 

attachicon.gifpost-91-0-87902100-1566742761.jpg

 

It reminds me of a feature on Joel Montague's 1973 Nats winning chassis:

 

attachicon.gifclicker-1.jpg

 

The "Montague Clicker":

 

attachicon.gif1973 Montague chassis 024.JPG

 

Neat stuff......

There is also a replica built by Pablo of that car...

 

post-91-0-10275200-1515861987.jpg


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Maurizio Salerno

#60 Pablo

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 08:03 AM

Shake N Bake  :D  A shakey deck also prevents lead wires from drooping under the car.

 

Bartos fronts are uber-sweet and easy to make perfect. Mine are secured with Chi-Town collars with hollowed set screws, then a 5 thou steel spacer, then the wheel, another spacer, then the nut, secured with a microdot of 271

 

IMG_3402.JPG

 

Red Fox 28T crown arrived today (first time user) and I installed a Koford Gold Billet hollowed grub screw. It was very slightly contacting my bracket brace. I checked the IRRA® gear trimming rules - crowns are legal to trim, but not legal to modify. So I chucked it up to my poor man's lathe and hit the edge with sandpaper; end of problem. Rotor, next time the motor is out, you can shave some meat off the stbd. edge of the brace with a fine file then smooth with sandpaper. I didn't want to have metal shavings flying around with the motor and gear installed  :)

 

I faced the collars, installed a pair of spacers on the Swiss flatted Koford axle, slapped on the JK Wonder Rubber wheels, and it all worked absolutely perfect. Imagine that  :)  Not a hair of extra axle meat protrudes beyond the JK hubs. The RF crown has the sweetest mesh I've ever felt on a retro  :good:  With the Chi-Town collars, you won't have to re-adjust the mesh when changing wheels. 

 

Rotor, take note of the mid-point notch on the brace at the rear - I marked it with a Sharpie for the photo, along with the midway mark on my retro tool. The wheels are perfectly centered. Now, if you want to skew them one way or the other to make it handle certain corners on the track better, at least you have a starting reference point  :D

 

IMG_3406.JPG

 

 

 

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#61 Pablo

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 07:22 PM

She passes the drivetrain test with flying colors and sounds real happy.

 

Clearances with flag off the block are: front about .025, rear about .060. JK's out of the bottle are about .835 so that gives plenty of rubber for practice. Ride height is perfect for about 15 thou braid recess.  

 

Balance point is right at the bite bars. Total weight as shown, with a fully outfitted retro legal body included, is 108 grams.

 

IMG_3415.JPG


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#62 Half Fast

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 10:37 PM

The most unique build of an X-25 I have ever seen! :good:

 

Cheers


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#63 Rotorranch

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Posted 27 August 2019 - 06:51 AM

Looks great! I can't wait for it to get home, and get the bodies mounted. I hope to race it in a couple of weeks at Atlanta.

 

Should be fun... track I have never run, car i have never run, and I haven't even driven a slot car in 4-5 years!   :shok: 

 

Looking forward to this!!!

 

Rotor

 

 


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#64 Rotorranch

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Posted 31 August 2019 - 06:13 PM

IMG_20190831_194003.jpg

 

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I'm not sure I'm going to change a thing! Really fired up to test the car out. 

 

Not sure about the motor, it might not be what it was made out to be. Oh well.

 

Now to mount and paint some bodies!

 

Rotor


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#65 Pablo

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Posted 31 August 2019 - 07:33 PM

Can we clarify the motor didn't come from The Ranch? 

Never mind, I guess I just did  :)


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#66 Rotorranch

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Posted 31 August 2019 - 08:37 PM

Can we clarify the motor didn't come from The Ranch? 

Never mind, I guess I just did  :)

 

It didn't come from the Rotor Ranch, or the Wolcott Ranch. It was some other "highly" regarded source.  :dash2:

 

The brushes on the "special motor" look worse than the motor I have with 3 races on it!

 

Live and learn!

 

Rotor


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#67 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 06:36 AM

Rotor, are you saying it was one you picked out of the trash? :laugh2:  :laugh2:


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#68 Rotorranch

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 06:52 AM

Not me, Bill, but maybe I'll try that next time!  :laugh2:   :shok:   :dance3: 

 

Rotor


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#69 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 04:04 PM

I started running FK motors in 1997 or 98, when Plafit Cheetahs were the only sealed motors on commercial tracks. It was the raceway's first or 2nd year anniversary race. I had a good motor & finished 2nd that day. Figuring never to run those darn things again, I gave that motor to my friend Nippy to put into a car for his 5 yr. old daughter. Was I ever wrong, over the next 4 or 5 years we ran those motor in all sorts of races & race series. Some of those motors ran like h*ll, others just plain stunk. Buying several together at one time only guaranteed you emptier pockets, but they were only $5.99 ea. I built a special Plafit powered flexi, ran it once, & it stunk too, only to never see a track again. Then I put another Plafit motor in a turbo flex chassis i had & it never lost a race for the next nine months. I've left this car together in my race box ever since it left the track in 2004. I've kept it as a memorial to the teenager who finally beat it one Saturday night. 


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Bill Fernald
 

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#70 Rotorranch

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 06:46 PM

OK, I attempted to mount the body on the car. I mucked it up! The left front corner of the nose split!  :dash2: 

 

I guess it's on to attempt #2.  :unknw: 

 

Rotor

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#71 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 09:06 PM

I see a number of reasons why this isn't working, Jeff.

 

1. The split in the front isn't attributable to the mounting of the body. I don't know how it happened but it looks like it won't affect the mounting process.

2. Mounting a retro body with the braids in place with a non-recessed block is something that can be done, but it would require the body to be somehow jacked up to ground zero to make it work. Not to mention the 15/50 thou slope.

3. Having said all that, it appears the body is sitting way too high and needs to be trimmed properly.

4. Mounting a Can Am retro body without the wheel wells cut out is next to impossible.

 

Yes, mounting retro bodies is tricky. My best advice is, remove the body, mask and paint it, bring it with you to your next retro event, and have somebody with lots of experience help you trim and mount it. I wish I had trimmed and pinned it here for you, but I thought you said you had that part covered.  :o


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#72 John Streisguth

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 10:02 PM

Actually, if he trimmed the body on the cut lines, it's not too high.  The McKee sits up high in the nose compared to a typical Ti22. And I never cut the wheelwells until after the body is pinned. But I agree a block with a guide recess would be better.

Just get a little shoe goo for that split, after you paint it, it will be fine...


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#73 Don Weaver

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 06:20 AM

If nothing else, trim it properly, paint it, put a little "ShooGoo" in the corner and use it as a practice body...

 

Don


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#74 Rotorranch

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 09:24 AM

I see a number of reasons why this isn't working, Jeff.

 

1. The split in the front isn't attributable to the mounting of the body. I don't know how it happened but it looks like it won't affect the mounting process.

2. Mounting a retro body with the braids in place with a non-recessed block is something that can be done, but it would require the body to be somehow jacked up to ground zero to make it work. Not to mention the 15/50 thou slope.

3. Having said all that, it appears the body is sitting way too high and needs to be trimmed properly.

4. Mounting a Can Am retro body without the wheel wells cut out is next to impossible.

 

Yes, mounting retro bodies is tricky. My best advice is, remove the body, mask and paint it, bring it with you to your next retro event, and have somebody with lots of experience help you trim and mount it. I wish I had trimmed and pinned it here for you, but I thought you said you had that part covered.  :o

 

 

1. The body split during the trimming/mounting process. This body is a little thinner at that point than the other McKees I have.

 

2. That's not my mounting block, just a display block. No braid.  The chassis was at ground zero, as was the body. Flat on the deck. Cut line is even, or just below the bottom of the chassis.

 

3. Body was trimmed on the cut line.

 

4. Why? I find it a bit tough the cut the wheel openings before the body is located on the chassis.

 

The body is square and level. I'm happy with everything except the split.

 

Rotor


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#75 Pablo

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 09:32 AM

OK then you're good to go. If you don't have shoo goo what I'd do is cut a thin slice of bodyproofing, bend it 90 degrees, and reinforce the cut. Now go win a race  :dance3:


Paul Wolcott





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