28 replies to this topic

[sportblazer350]

Our next Vintage race is Saturday, August 31, at Dom's Raceway. Track opens 5 PM, free practice until about 6:30 PM. First race starts a few minutes after. Please call me with any questions - (609) 713-3696. Thanks, Dominick.

1) First race: mid-1960s era 36D-powered production chassis cars made by Gar-Vic, Cox, Classic, Renwall, Dynamic. Any body from that time era is okay. No brass or steel pan cars in this race. I have a few loaner cars ready if you want to try before you hunt one down for your own.

2) Second race: American Line Sportsman/hot rod kit cars sold by REH Distributing, also 36D motors. I have a few kits in stock for $49 each.  Also a few loaners will be ready if you want to try before you buy.

If any one would like to just stop by and take a look, you're welcome, too!

Dom's Raceway
118 Jonathan Holmes Road
Cream Ridge, NJ

 

Cars from our past races:

 

 

[Lou E]

See you there!!

[Frank The Tank]

Are re-pops allowed? Is there a complete list of rules?

[NJ Racer]

Hey Frank

Re-popd Bodies are welcomed. Any 36D motor ! As they say run what ya b-r-u-n-g 😉

[Lou E]

Are re-pops allowed? Is there a complete list of rules?

Rules are as Glenn posted above, simple and fun!

[sportblazer350]

Frank- rules are such: stock 36D motor, any mid 1960's era production chassis (no scratch builds;  inline or sidewinder, no anglewinders), reissue bodies of mid 1960s era bodies allowed, basically trying to race cars as they were raced in the mid 1960's. I try to race cars that are all vintage era parts. One such car is a Garvic chassis, i race it with a period factory painted Chapparral body vs the original Sonic Needle body, and soft pink Candies on the rear. Even the guide flag and screw on braid are original period parts. Another is a Cyclone Avenger, Candies on the rear, but i use a modern guide flag as the factory guide does not work well at all.  At our last race I chose a Cox Cheetah with Buzco silicone/rubber rears, all Cox otherwise. Modern controllers allowed. 

 

    I do not race to win, I race for FUN. I want to experience what I watched as a youngster in basements and at raceways but did not participate in until about 1970, and I raced h.o. scale then. So now I am enjoying the "big cars".

 

  Hope to see you at our next race, and bring some friends. I have heard of guys racing vintage cars in Pa so it would be great to have you race with us.  

[NJ Racer]

Haven't seen you Frank since you stopped working at Speedzone. Bring your other Monday night cars as well if you decide to come. Hope all is well.

[DE38]

I am going to try and make this one. I will definitely be at the JD race. Almost done with my JD F1, I also have an AMT chassis to setup, waiting for a body.

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[sportblazer350]

Hi Charlie, i attempted an AMT car with a 36D motor, but it does not handle well. Rears are too wide so i am looking for a 1"+ od, narrow rear tire/wheel. I used various foam and silicone coated rears that i used in Hardbody racing, but too wide= too much traction, so my car hops in turns when i push it. All of my real vintage era rears are not large enough od to fit.  

[DE38]

Yea, I can see how that would happen, I narrowed them to the width of the wheel,about 3mm and rounded the edges, if I need to go more I will. I have a Thingie body coming and the wheels will be outside of the body so i dont have to worry about clearance. Its a for fun car anyway so Im not too worried about it, I still want it to run good though.

[DE38]

Some paint and good to go.

 

 

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[sportblazer350]

looks good Charlie!  i never thought about an AMT repop chassis with an F1 body! I build mine with model kit car bodies. Now you have me thinking....

[DE38]

Its more of some sort of Thingie body,but yea its similar to an F1.

[mdiv]

I'm in like Flynn!

Rarrrrrr!

Mike

[sportblazer350]

ok Charlie, without paint i thought it was an F1 body, now i see the Thingie!  Sa-weet!!! 

 

you seem to continue to influence me to build and race a variety of vintage era cars over the years i have known you. 

[DE38]

Thanks. Im going to do some bracing, it is pretty bendable in some areas, also have a couple ideas on securing the motor a little better.

Still not 100% sure I will be there but Im going to try.

[sportblazer350]

Charlie- hope you can make it. For the AMT chassis i soldered to two chassis sections together. I used Shoo Goo to hold the motor better, and it actually worked! And is easy enough to remove. I found ProTrack .50" wide x 1.01" dia rears, so i'll order a set and test out mine again.

[DE38]

Ran the car a little bit at our club track before the coupe race, it ran pretty good even though our track is silicone tire only so the foams were pretty loose.

I think it might be a decent runner, just got to paint the body.

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[DE38]

 Got some paint and numbers on, nothing special but looks pretty cool.

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[Bill from NH]

Charlie, it does look cool!

[mdiv]

Looking good Charlie!  Can't wait to race against her with my nuclear-powered Cheetah!

Mike D

[sportblazer350]

Charlie, this must be a first for an AMT chassis!   looks fast already.  

 

bring a Hardbody car with you, as there is some interest in this class for the future

[DE38]

Thanks guys, I dont know how fast its going to be but it does look the part.

Glenn, whats the deal with the hardbodies, chassis, motors?

[sportblazer350]

Charlie, as we discussed before: BRM, Scaleauto, H&R Racing with model kit bodies. I found a group that races hardbody with Scaleauto, Plafit, Scholler type chassis with faster motors and model kit bodies. I would like to try that out and see if we can get some interest. The Euro chassis work well, much better than the H&R Racing chassis. 

[DE38]

Got it, I can bring something.