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#1 rvec

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Posted 27 November 2019 - 10:11 AM

I have a resin GT40 MKIV that is much too heavy to race. Is there anyone out these that has a very high res. 3D scanner and printer that can create the car in plastic? Maybe we can work a deal. Please PM me

 

Thanks

Rich


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#2 ThunderThumb

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 10:30 AM

We have several 3D printers at work , I will ask and see if they can make one
Earl Anderson

#3 rvec

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 12:11 PM

We have several 3D printers at work , I will ask and see if they can make one

 

Thanks  and let me know. - There will be some editiing that must be done. As I mentioned the walls are way too thick

 

Rich


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#4 ThunderThumb

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 01:21 PM

What material do you prefer to use


Earl Anderson

#5 rvec

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 05:08 PM

What material do you prefer to use

 

Ideally, plastic that has some amount of strength. The finished product should look like a plastic model. There may be several types of plastics available. I don't know enough to suggest a particular kind. 


Rich Vecchio


#6 MSwiss

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 06:55 PM

Maybe things have improved, but I'm not sure you are going to get something that looks like an injection molded model.

This, from a few years ago, sure didn't.

http://slotblog.net/...onicon-mustang/

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#7 rvec

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 07:39 PM

Maybe things have improved, but I'm not sure you are going to get something that looks like an injection molded model.

This, from a few years ago, sure didn't.

http://slotblog.net/...onicon-mustang/

 

I hope things have improved. Maybe I'll be able to get a great looking slot car -  maybe this effort will be a big fail.

 

I believe, at some point, printing will become much better and cheaper. Maybe that time is now.


Rich Vecchio


#8 Dave Crevie

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 11:00 AM

Quite frankly, if the Ford GT-40 is cast in polyester resin, I would just thin out the heavy areas with a 1/2 inch sanding drum

in a Dremel. You can pull a mold when finished and cast duplicates in a lighter type resin. 



#9 rvec

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 11:07 AM

Quite frankly, if the Ford GT-40 is cast in polyester resin, I would just thin out the heavy areas with a 1/2 inch sanding drum

in a Dremel. You can pull a mold when finished and cast duplicates in a lighter type resin. 

 

Dave,

That may be the final answer, however, I am intrigued (and ignorant) regarding the potential of 3D printing


Rich Vecchio


#10 Dave Crevie

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 12:44 PM

The system that will provide the best results, resin bath, is still pretty expensive for what we are doing. The FDMs like we have

at my local library are just not useable. There are other types of powdered media that Shapeways has that might be worth inves-

tigating. I would try Frosted Extreme Detail, which is what the model railroaders use, first. Just tell them you need finer resolusion

than the media they normally use.



#11 MattD

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 01:10 PM

I had a friend print me a 3D Shadow.   It was a lot of work to make it smooth enough for paint.    I don't know much about 3D, but the body a skeleton that   is part of the printing and supports the outer body  as it is printed..    This skeleton must be removed by cutting and sanding.      After a few weeks of body putty and sanding,  cutting off the sides and making new ones  from sheet styrene that were straight and not wavy. I had a fair body.   No way it was suitable for a slot car.   I painted it slick and sanded more,painted more, sanded more etc.    When it was finally right, I used it for silicone mold to slush cast a resin body!    I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to thin down the sides and areas where I could.

 

Hopefully you can get a really detailed file and have somebody print with a high dollar printer that can print high resolution.

 

P1010002.JPG

 

 


Matt Bishop

Vintage Cox Slot Cars

#12 rvec

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 01:42 PM

I had a friend print me a 3D Shadow.   It was a lot of work to make it smooth enough for paint.    I don't know much about 3D, but the body a skeleton that   is part of the printing and supports the outer body  as it is printed..    This skeleton must be removed by cutting and sanding.      After a few weeks of body putty and sanding,  cutting off the sides and making new ones  from sheet styrene that were straight and not wavy. I had a fair body.   No way it was suitable for a slot car.   I painted it slick and sanded more,painted more, sanded more etc.    When it was finally right, I used it for silicone mold to slush cast a resin body!    I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to thin down the sides and areas where I could.

 

Hopefully you can get a really detailed file and have somebody print with a high dollar printer that can print high resolution.

 

attachicon.gifP1010002.JPG

 

 

Nice job. Much more work than I thought. 


Rich Vecchio


#13 Dave Crevie

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 04:37 PM

This superb article writen by Mike May and published in the Nov/Dec issue of Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette

shows what we model railroaders are doing. The method shown reproduces tiny bolt head detail perfectly. For anyone

seriously thinking about having highly detailed bodies reproduced, this magazine would be a stellar investment. The

processes and procedures described in many articles are applicable to making scale slot car bodies.  

 

3darticle.JPG



#14 MattD

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 06:56 PM

Dave, I buy used issues  of  NG&SLG just to see the cover pictures!!!!


Matt Bishop

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#15 rvec

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Posted 30 November 2019 - 10:57 AM

This superb article writen by Mike May and published in the Nov/Dec issue of Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette

shows what we model railroaders are doing. The method shown reproduces tiny bolt head detail perfectly. For anyone

seriously thinking about having highly detailed bodies reproduced, this magazine would be a stellar investment. The

processes and procedures described in many articles are applicable to making scale slot car bodies.  

 

attachicon.gif3darticle.JPG

I will check into it


Rich Vecchio






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