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First paint job


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#1 Rich Joslin

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 07:13 PM

A little bleed from the green stripe on the edges of the roof. I should have checked the tape better. A couple taping errors in the wing area. Green was not as dark as I hoped. Maybe backing it with black before moving on would have helped? A narrower tipped black marker for detailing? Better eyesight and less shaky hands would help too!

 

First Paint (2).jpg

 

First Paint 2 (2).jpg

 

 

 

 


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#2 Fred Zufelt

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 07:36 PM

Way better than my first one and many of my follow up.

 

I think I just don't have the patience for the basis to put down the masking and keep the spray very light with many coats.

 

Good job

Fred Z



#3 Rich Joslin

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 08:53 PM

Way better than my first one and many of my follow up.

 

I think I just don't have the patience for the basis to put down the masking and keep the spray very light with many coats.

 

Good job

Fred Z

 

Thank you Fred,

The masking did take quite awhile. Probably should have taken a bit more time around the wing.



#4 Dan Searcy

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 09:41 PM

Looks pretty darn good to me.  Masking is usually where I have issues.  It's easy to miss something that's not quite all the way stuck down.


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#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 09:42 PM

Rich, your paint job looks very well done & it should really stand out when it's on the track. A tip I use is, to burnish all tape or mask edges & seams, if they exist. You can buy metal & plastic burnishers, but I like to make wooden ones using BBQ skewers. I sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener & cut the other end at between 45-60 degrees to make a wedge. Small dowels should also work.


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#6 Brian Czeiner

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 09:52 PM

Assuming you are using paint mask for your stripes, try giving it a quick blast with a hair dryer to soften the mask and help it conform to window areas. looks great! :good:


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#7 MattD

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 10:34 PM

After you apply the tape, spray with clear and let dry.  The clear may bleed, but you won't see it.   It will also seal all the tape edges to stop bleed with the next color.


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#8 Martin

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Posted 02 January 2020 - 11:59 PM

You beat me to it Matt, that's a great tip with the clear paint.

Burnishing is also a necessary step,as Bill suggested . I use polished dental tools myself to get into tight areas. My finger nail works in the open areas.

I have had good luck with paint on masking fluid for windows etc. 

One more suggestion,  I trim and mount the body first. It easy to see wheels and pin mounts while it is still clear.

 

Keep them coming Rich it  looks good from here, and will look great on the track. Amazing first attempt.


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#9 Rich Joslin

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 09:06 AM

Thank you for the great tips and encouragement. I look forward to doing some more.



#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 09:07 AM

Clear acrylic paint is a milky white, but it does dry clear.  I have not used spray cans of clear, but I assume they're clear when wet.


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#11 Rich Joslin

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 01:24 PM

Chose to do a very subtle, simple design on this Bentley as it is my favorite body style and I didn't want to mess it up. I was painting it last night on the back porch in the wind. The over spray shield I had taped in place came loose so I did get a bit of over spray. It is mostly in an area that will get trimmed off when mounted. 

 

 

Bentley 2.jpg

 

 

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#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 02:56 PM

Nice job Rich. :) I've not used it, but others use Glad's cling wrap as an overspray shield. Supposedly, it doesn't require to be taped. I use a shoe box with a 4 1/4" x 3 1/4" hole cut in the cover. I put the uncut body in the hole upside down & securely tape the body's flashing to the box top. For 4 1/2" bodies, cut a larger hole. You could also do about the same thing using a piece of corrugated cardboard or a clean pizza box  cover.


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#13 Rich Joslin

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 04:08 PM

Nice job Rich. :) I've not used it, but others use Glad's cling wrap as an overspray shield. Supposedly, it doesn't require to be taped. I use a shoe box with a 4 1/4" x 3 1/4" hole cut in the cover. I put the uncut body in the hole upside down & securely tape the body's flashing to the box top. For 4 1/2" bodies, cut a larger hole. You could also do about the same thing using a piece of corrugated cardboard or a clean pizza box  cover.

 

I like both of those ideas Bill. Definitely have a few shoe boxes lying around the house!



#14 Lou E

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Posted 04 January 2020 - 11:02 AM

Very nice work on both those bodies.

What clear are you guys spraying? I’ve been using the Tamiya PS spray cans and my masking could definitely benefit from some clear!
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#15 Jay Guard

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Posted 05 January 2020 - 09:46 PM

Rich:

Try Para-Film "M" for masking, it conforms easily to compound curves.  Once you apply it you simply cut around the edges with a sharp X-Acto knife, press with a finger or soft object, and It will give you the the sharpest edges ever.  Make sure to read the instructions that come with the Para-Film to get the best results..

 

IMG_2287.JPG


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#16 Alan Dodson

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Posted 05 January 2020 - 10:25 PM

Jay, where do you get Parafilm M?


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#17 Rich Joslin

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Posted 05 January 2020 - 10:45 PM

Jay, where do you get Parafilm M?

 

Not sure where Jay buys it but I found it on Amazon, Ebay and some Medical Supply sellers.



#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 January 2020 - 10:50 PM

It was available at Micro Mark, but I haven't seen their catalog for several years. Undoubtably, it's available elsewhere too.


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#19 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 06 January 2020 - 07:38 AM

The Parafilm M works very well for masking once you get it stretched enough to activate it.

 

I have a hard time getting it properly stretched without ripping it.

 

Any suggestions Jay? Or anyone

 

As for over spray a little alcohol on a paper towel will probably clean it up quick, but don't let it get inside the body where you want paint.


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