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#1 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 10:42 AM

While waiting on the arrival of the Strombecker Porsche I bought through eBay (it should be here Monday) I managed to buy (locally) a Cox Chaparral 2A, so my journey into this scale has officially begun. It's in pretty rough shape, but I didn't have to pay much for it, and now I get the pleasure of attempting to rebuild/restore it. 

 

The wonderful thread posted by Jean-Michel Piot on this subject (which is really what got me interested in 1/24 in the first place) will serve as a most helpful guide.

 

First off, I'm struck with how big this thing is: like most of us, I'd built a couple of 1/24-25 static models when I was much younger, so it's been a (long) while since I've actually had a car model of this size. The 36D motor (with the little "Cox" sticker) seems huge!  

 

I disassembled (most) everything and have begun. For now I'm just gonna concentrate on the chassis; body questions will come later.  :)

 

The frame shows the (I guess) typical corrosion; I don't have access to a "sandblaster", but with steel wool and some careful scraping, sanding, etc, I think I can get it back into a decent condition. The "drop arm" is puzzling to me; how does one go about separating that from the main frame? I see a brass sleeve in there, but I'm just not sure how removal is done, and I (obviously) don't want to force anything and risk breakage.

 

I cleaned the motor, re-soldered the wire connections, and that now runs very smoothly. The big gear (#4340) is in fine shape; the rear axle showed some very light surface rust, but it cleaned up nicely. I'm unsure as to how the wheels are supposed to stay on the axle; are they held in place by threaded nuts?

 

Initially I found it difficult to get to the screw that holds the frame to the front body mount: the drop arm was in the way. Is there a trick to that? Also, there is a brass "arm" that extends forward from the screw that holds the frame (and front axle) to the body: it looks like it might be there to contact the pick-up shoe. What function does that "arm" do?

 

As always, I appreciate your help/input and willingness to put up with the likes of myself!   :)

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Mark Mugnai




#2 NHBandit

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 10:51 AM

The Brass tube the drop arm pivots on should have a screw going through it with a nut on the end. If the screw is missing the tube should just push out. Don't force it, it may be corroded in place. The flat Brass piece above the pickup shoe is just there to limit travel so the guide shoe dosn't pop up out of the groove. And yes, threaded nuts or Acorn nuts hold the tapered wheels to the axle. The front should be free wheeling, not tapered.


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#3 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 12:07 PM

I'm pretty sure that the Chaparral 2A has a tapered front axle, not a free wheeling front axle.

 

Send me a PM... I think I have a copy of the instructions for the 2A. I can scan it and send it to you.

 

Rotor


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#4 Lone Wolf

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 01:11 PM

The little ears that hold the drop arm are fragile. I use WD-40 that I put into a pin oiler. Lube the area and gently try to get the arm moving through it's full travel range. Be very patient and eventually  it should start moving. Only then should you attempt to remove the brass sleeve. Note how the spring goes. If the sleeve does not budge I would leave it.

 

I have a small blast cabinet with ultra fine media. Really the best way to clean the parts but a big investment unless you are really into it. I have had success using small wire brushes to clean the chassis and then I use Testors metallizer spray with a coat of sealer to make them look uniform. Don't try any corrosive cleaners like Purple Power etc. Be aware that the evil corrosion monster will return if the Magnesium is exposed to air.

 

The rear axle thread is 2-56 so a little nut will work if you don't have the correct acorns. I have some acorns currently listed on Ebay.

 

As far as the body screw it is what it is.


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#5 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 01:27 PM

Mark

 

Thank you. I think I got it working okay, so I'll probably just leave it well enough alone.

 

Jeff

 

PM sent; thanks so much!

 

Joe

 

Thank you. I will go to eBay and look for those "acorns". I believe that's what's on my front axle, although I haven't really looked at that whole assembly much yet.

 

Once again, I really appreciate everyone's input.

 

I really don't know what I'm doing, so anything and everything helps!   :good:

 

Mark in Oregon


Mark Mugnai

#6 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 01:29 PM

IMG_20200208_132208.jpg

 

IMG_20200208_132239.jpg

 

IMG_20200208_132255.jpg

 

IMG_20200208_132311.jpg

 

IMG_20200208_132320.jpg


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#7 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 02:45 PM

Jeff sent me some better images; thanks!

 

Here is Page 2  "Chassis Assembly":

 

Instructions.jpg

 

Please note on the second line, it says "...both axles are the same..."

 

Here are the axles from mine; the top one was on the rear and the lower was on the front:

 

axles....jpg

 

What's going on here? 

 

Mark

 

 

 

 


Mark Mugnai

#8 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 03:11 PM

The axle on top is not correct. That is a replacement axle to use wheels other than Cox. The rear axle should be a tapered ended axle.

 

As far as I know, the 2A the front axle is supposed to be a tapered axle as well. The second axle is a Cox free wheeling front axle. It was used on several different Cox cars, but not sure if the 2A ever had them from the factory.

 

Rotor


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#9 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 03:20 PM

Nothing wrong with the free wheeling front axle... It's actually a better system than the solid tapered axle. Maybe the later kits had the free wheelers? I don't know.

 

Tapered axle must use the tapered wheels. Free wheeling axles must also the free wheeling wheels. Cox also made Chap wheels that are threaded that could be used on regular threaded axles.

 

Rotor


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#10 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 03:49 PM

Thanks Jeff

 

Here's something else I don't get.

 

The instructions call for a 3/16" spacer to be put between the wheel and the axle bushing on the non-geared side. But if I do that the axle isn't long enough on the geared end for the "acorn" nut to engage that threaded end.

 

I tried using a much narrower spacer (1/32") on the non-geared side and now the axle has enough thread to properly engage that "acorn".

 

The wheels now stay in place, thanks to those "acorns" BUT:  now the whole assembly is off center by...3/16": the same distance as the spacer the instructions call for.

 

chassis.jpg

 

 

What the heck!?!   :dash2:

 

This certainly is a puzzle...  :)

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 


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#11 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 03:59 PM

The Cox axle you have is a free wheeling front axle. 

 

Do your wheels slide over the axle? In other words, does the axle slide through the wheels?

 

If so, that is the front axle and wheels.

 

Rotor

 

Rotor


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#12 NHBandit

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 04:35 PM

Mine has a tapered axle and corresponding tapered wheels on the rear and the free wheeling axle & wheels on the front. Where is Philippe when you need him ? I thought I remembered something about the RTR cars and the kit car parts being slightly different ? In any case the threaded axle you have is wrong for sure.


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#13 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 04:40 PM

Yes, the wheels do "slide" on the axle; yet the instructions appear to show that type of axle on both front and rear...

 

Hmmm...   :unknw:

 

Mark in Oregon


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#14 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 04:49 PM

Scan2020-02-08_164343_000.jpg

 

Scan2020-02-08_164343_001.jpg


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Posted 08 February 2020 - 05:22 PM

What you have is the free wheeling FRONT AXLE and wheels.

Now you need a tapered rear axle and wheels.

Rotor


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#16 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 05:56 PM

What you have is the free wheeling FRONT AXLE and wheels.

Now you need a tapered rear axle and wheels.

Rotor

 

Hello again Jeff   

 

I believe you, I really do...BUT:   :)

 

If that's the case, why do the instructions say  ..."both axles are the same..."  ? 

 

I can't thank you (and everyone else) enough for sticking with me in this; I really appreciate it! 

 

I can only imagine how ridiculous some of my questions must seem...  :sarcastic_hand:

 

Mark (still) in Oregon

 

PS:  I have to say I'm enjoying this project very much.


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#17 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 06:09 PM

Both axles on the original 2A should be tapered. You don't have one. 

 

The Cox wheels and axle you have is a later free wheeling front axle. Someone might have done the upgrade sometime in the last 55 years. OR later versions of the car came with the free wheeling front axle.

 

Rotor


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#18 NHBandit

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 06:20 PM

This is possibly a later version ? It shows the free wheeling front axle & wheels. 

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#19 slotbaker

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 06:22 PM

:popcorm1:

 

Strummer, another iconic production car you could look out for would be any of the Tamiya diecast, sidewinder cars.

They're good fun to play with too.

:)


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Posted 08 February 2020 - 06:23 PM

The mystery continues. The instruction sheet Jim posted is dated 6-65. The copy I have with the free wheeling front is dated 10-65


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#21 Rotorranch

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 06:43 PM

The mystery continues. The instruction sheet Jim posted is dated 6-65. The copy I have with the free wheeling front is dated 10-65

 

No, that solves the mystery!

 

It appears that the later version did have the free wheeling front axle.

 

Cool. I learned something I didn't know! All my 2A's must be early issue.

 

Rotor


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#22 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 09:31 PM

 

No, that solves the mystery!

 

It appears that the later version did have the free wheeling front axle.

 

Cool. I learned something I didn't know! All my 2A's must be early issue.

 

Rotor

 

That is cool.   :good:

 

So in the interest of "accuracy", what do I need to look for...for my example? I'm guessing the rear axle needs to be longer than the front one (2 9/16"), since we need to be able to "center" the wheels in relation to the frame...(?)  I would also need (2) wheels that go with that axle.

 

Fascinating stuff, this...and we haven't even started to look at the body yet!   :)

 

Mark in Oregon


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#23 Martin

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 10:42 PM

You will find that unless you buy a complete car you will always be missing a part or two.

I have a lot of 1/24 slot stuff. Still when I go to complete a car I am missing that one part.

This is of course if you are trying to make it factory correct?

Your car only needs a tapered rear axle and the wide tapered Chaparral wheels and 2 more acorn nuts, then you will need tires. Which I believe are Firestone's. Repo's are made. 

Your best bet is to get a copy of the Cox catalog. That will give you the part numbers, and will save you buying the wrong part.

Your in could hands here I feel. :)

 

I believe these are the rear wheels you need https://www.ebay.com...fcAAOSw32lcaFV6

But you can see sometimes you can get a whole bunch of stuff or even another car for not much more. Keep your eyes peeled.

Note... here is where you need the catalog.

Look at the description at bottom of his add, conflicting info for sure.

 

But I just confirmed with a search of that part number.

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#24 strummer

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 11:37 PM

Martin

 

First off, thanks for the link: I wish they were still a buck for the pair! 

 

You make a lot of valid points regarding buying "used" and all that comes with it. For whatever reason, I have almost always taken this "piece meal" approach to my hobby purchases. I guess I find the search (and research) almost as interesting as the actual work itself, which I also really enjoy. Guess that's why I'm having such a good time with this so far.

 

At the risk of "beating a dead horse", I want to say again how much I appreciate all the help I've received since I started this thread some 13 hours ago.

 

I feel a fair bit of progress has been made already and I have certainly learned a lot as well; thanks again.   :)

 

Mark in Oregon


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#25 Martin

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Posted 09 February 2020 - 02:09 AM

I did a little more searching in my stash. I measured 3 sizes of Cox tapered axles.

They are end to end....

2-9/16"

2-11/16"

2-13/16"

I am using 2-11/16" for my Cox RTR Lotus 40 build. That fits inside that body without rubbing.


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