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Front end "fine tuning"...


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#1 strummer

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 02:23 PM

Here's a question that I'm sure you all will have an easy fix for. 

 

One of the nice things about being a beginner is that I can show you my entire fleet and it only takes a couple of pictures.  :)

 

As I was running my (2) cars the other day, I noticed the front tires of the Cox Chaparral were making contact with the track surface and rotating as they should...see?

 

unnamed #1.jpg

 

However on the Strombecker car, they were not. As you can see by the photo, there is enough space between the tire and the track to insert this much of a round toothpick:

 

unnamed #3.jpg

 

Now I think there are probably some regulations somewhere about all 4 tires needing to contact the track surface; and even if there isn't, this just looks and seems "wrong".

 

Everything appears to be "as intended". The slot on this Aurora track is a full 7/32" deep and both cars' guide shoes are at 3/16", so the track slot is not the issue. The upwards movement of the drop arm on this car is limited by where that arm meets the frame, so I don't think that can be easily addressed.

 

What/where else can I look to try to correct this? Am happy to post additional photos if that will help.

 

Thanks!

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

 

 

 

 


Mark Mugnai




#2 Rotorranch

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 02:57 PM

The Chaparral needs more guide pressure.  Ideally, front wheels should just barely touch the track, if at all. Flatten out the brass strip that is the guide flag stop, and place it under the front suspension mount.

 

 

The Lotus, on the other hand,  needs to be lowered in the front. Remove a spacer from below the chassis and the guide, if there is one, and/or replace with a thinner one.

 

Rotor


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#3 John Streisguth

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 03:37 PM

:) 


"Whatever..."

#4 Tim Neja

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 04:26 PM

Show a picture of the chassis area in the front of the cars.


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#5 strummer

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 06:46 PM

"...remove a spacer below the chassis and the guide..."

 

Bingo: that was the key. At first I didn't think there was a spacer and thought the guide was "shouldered". But there was indeed a 1/16" spacer; it was the same black plastic as the guide shoe itself. That helped a lot. Thanks Jeff.

 

Next question: when I first got this car the braids were missing, so new ones were installed. Typically, how far beyond the shoe should the braids extend...if at all? I ask because it seems to me long braids (like the ones I installed)...

 

braids.jpg

 

...could potentially make contact with each other, thereby creating a short.

 

In fact, the blue you see here is tape I used to insulate the drop arm from the braids; it had a tendency to run somewhat intermittently, and I think that shorting with the arm was happening...

 

Mark in Oregon


Mark Mugnai

#6 slotbaker

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 07:04 PM

Normally, the screw on braids go on the top of the guide, pointing forward, then wrap the braid down and towards the rear of the car.

 

You can get the idea from this;

classic_mantaray.jpg

 

Then trim the braid to the length of the guide shoe.

 

Or, you could just trim the braid to the length of your guide shoe as it is now.

You don't really need the full length braid on these cars.

 

 

edit;

Here's a blurry pic of my Cheetah, bought 'as is' a while ago.

I'm not too sure how original it is tho.

strom-24-Cheetah-srk.jpg


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Steve King


#7 strummer

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 11:22 PM

Steve et al

 

Here's what I finally ended up doing. The chassis was designed to able to adjust the drop arm front-to back. The arm's pivot points were in the furthest to the front holes: I moved the arm back one to the middle hole.

 

before:

 

chassis 3142.jpg

 

after:

 

chassis 3141.jpg

 

Given the slant of the nose, there is more room up inside the shell the further towards the back you go. By moving the drop arm back a little, the brass collar (that holds the guide shoe) no longer makes contact with the inside of the body; so the drop arm can "retract" up until it comes into contact with the frame itself.  I don't know if I'm making myself clear...  :crazy:  ...but I think it helped.

 

Steve, I was gonna swap the screws that hold the braids (as you mentioned) but on this model there isn't enough room for the screw heads (and the braids) to go in from the top and still clear the end of the arm that holds the guide. Maybe you can see what I mean in this picture:

 

guide.jpg

 

A different design from other makers, I guess.

 

I also did clip off short sections from the braids, eliminating any chance of them touching each other and creating a short.

 

So there you go...gee, hope my new tires get here soon.  :)

 

Mark in Oregon

 

PS: Do I have this wired backwards?

 

 

 

 

 


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Mark Mugnai

#8 slotbaker

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 03:50 AM

PS: Do I have this wired backwards?

Well, your red & green wires are opposite to mine, but then your crown gear is on the opposite side, so both our cars should go the same direction.

Right hand braid going forward is positive.

Neutral timed standard motors, so shouldn't be an issue.

:huh:
 


Steve King


#9 strummer

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 09:25 AM

Thanks Steve

 

I have wired all my stuff (1/32 and the two 1/24 cars) to run counter clockwise; that is to say, "Indy 500" style. I did this because the Scalextric set I got for my son (back in the early 2000s) ran that way, so...

 

Is that the "universally accepted" direction, or do I have it backwards? Do Formula One and Sports cars (Like Can Am) run in that same direction? I think Monaco runs clockwise...  :mellow: ...?

 

Also, you say "your crown gear is on the opposite side": I get that, but my Cox Chaparral runs in the same direction, and that set-up is a "sidewinder", so I really had no say in which direction that would run, except for the pick-up wires...  

 

Mark in Oregon


Mark Mugnai

#10 Dave Crevie

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 09:36 AM

The braid screws are installed the proper way on the Strombecker car. Make sure the screw heads aren't hitting on the track braid. The original

screws were very low profile Phillister head screws, with not much screwdriver slot depth. 


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#11 Tim Neja

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 12:01 PM

Check which way your motor runs best!!  Then check the polarity of your track!! Standard is right side --positive.  Ninco is reversed. But your motors will run best in ONE direction.


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She's real fine, my 409!!!

#12 strummer

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 04:24 PM

Another question.

 

Would it make sense to run a little bit of solder over the ends of the pick-up braids, to keep them from "un-raveling"? Or is it actually better to have those ends spread out, if you will...

 

Mark in Oregon


Mark Mugnai

#13 Rotorranch

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 04:43 PM

NO SOLDER!!!

 

Let them freely make contact. Soft braid preferred. Just keep it trimmed to guide flag length. That will prevent shorting out.

 

Rotor


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#14 strummer

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 05:36 PM

OKAY!!!

 

Thanks Jeff....  :D


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Mark Mugnai





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