25 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

This one will be made to fit a Truescale T70R Lola body like this:

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Specifications and design for the chassis will be almost exactly the same as this Lotus 40 car:

 

http://slotblog.net/...r-lotus-40-car/

 

The only differences will be, the front axle tube will be slightly longer, and there is less room for the .875" OD front wheels - it's really tight. So I'll take that into consideration. But it will basically be a carbon copy of the Lotus 40 chassis.

 

Rough trimming of the body is done for now

 

[Pablo]

Previous JK Jaildoor bracket needed a lot of tweaking to make right. This one, I got lucky, it only needed a slight tweak, a slight boring of the tube holes, and we are off to the races...…...

 

[SpeedyNH]

i used to think that the T-70 was one of the worst-handling slotcar bodies, back in the 60's. hope that yours turns out a lot better than mine did! 

[Noose]

It was the Pro go to body after the Lotus 40 and just like in real CanAm it was overcome by the McLarens!!! Lol


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[tonyp]

You forgot the 6 weeks the Elfin ruled. Lol


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[bbr]

It is interesting how things get refined. even with the modern retro racing, when I first started, about ten years past, the grid had all sorts of bodies, now it is all Ti22.

[tonyp]

Always happens. One or two of bodies of the era always work best.


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[Tex]

I noticed the same, that grids soon became all Ti-22's. My idealistic mind was filled with visions of a good mix of old USRRC and Can-Am cars though. I was running the retro program at DSC and decided to make some changes before the next series began. I announced that spoilers on TI-22's would be limited to 1/4" while leaving all other bodies to use 1/2" spoilers. You'd have thought I said I was gonna shot their grandmas! The track owner told me the majority of racers were very upset with this and wouldn't race. I became so disillusioned(and disappointed in their selfish shortsightedness) that I quit slot racing for over a year.

[tonyp]

The original rules now looking back should have been bodies that were run on in lines only.


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[Don Weaver]

In the interest of diversity the "Doghouse Raceway" simply banned all Ti-22's.

 

Don

[old & gray]

While we are "banning" bodies shall we include the Lola Coupe from the GTC class? 

 

Every class I have run either 1) develops a preference for one body (Parma Intrepid in early GTP, O/S Matra in mid 70's GP 7) OR 2) becomes an open season for mold makers to develop the next trick body.

 

Given the stated goal of retro to have a stable rule base and a consistent performance standard (equal motors, approved bodies, minimum weight) this situation is the logical outcome especially after ten years of experimentation. 

 

Personally I prefer the current state of affairs to a box in the corner of "it was competitive last month, now it's a back marker".

[John Streisguth]

And it's interesting to note that most recently approved bodies have no advantage over ones that have been in use for a few years.  IMO, that says a lot about the approval process.  The last paradigm shift was the F1 bodies with "tea tray" rear decks.  Other than that, it's been very stable.

 

But...enough thread drift...sorry Pablo!

[Pablo]

No need to be sorry, it's all relevant 

 

When I built the previous (sistership) chassis, I noticed the rails had been moving around a little in the middle with the application of heat. This time, I'm going to prevent that by adding a temp crosspiece, to be removed later. Each rail I add will be tack nailed down. I used tubing, it solders quicker with less heat and it's easier to slice off when the time comes

 

[Pablo]

Every now and then I like to get it off the jig for a cleaning and a checkup on my flattest block. So far, so good

 

[Don Weaver]

I used tubing, it solders quicker with less heat and it's easier to slice off when the time comes

 

Good idea!

[Pablo]

All five rails in place, forward cross tube done, all joints finalized. Now the temp anti-spreader gizmo gets sliced n diced off

 

 

Bits removed and rail surfaces cleaned up with Soder-Wick; ready for the hinge assembly

 

 

 

[Pablo]

I tried the Mike Katz method of simply curling the first rod around the tongue gizmo using the jig and pin. Worked much better for me, thanks Mike 

 

[slotcarone]

Glad to help!

[Pablo]

Lola drop arm

 

 

Hinge bracing; same as the Lotus 40 chassis

 

 

[Pablo]

Wiggle management for the drop arm

 

[Pablo]

After 8 hours of tumbling, my drop arm wiggle management actually improved. I wish you could feel it. It lifts about 15 thou, droops and wiggles a couple thou. Unhindered and smooth. If there is drop arm nirvana, this is it

 

 

Lola chassis is done

 

 

[Alan Dodson]

Pablo, do you use K&S brass rod or is there another source you prefer?

[Pablo]

I've always used K & S. The brass rod, tube, and sheet has always been fine for me. For 1/16 rod, I like the three 12" lengths in packs, part # 8162. I don't even test it, it's always straight.

 

K & S music wire the last couple years has been hit or miss in straightness. Some of it is really bad. I contacted the company, they denied the problem exists and claim it's straight when it leaves the factory. Baloney. Some builders don't mind if it's wavy. I do.

 

I still like my method of using dressmaker (thin) pins for the first hole punches. Then I examine the alignment, and if it needs a little movement to correct, I mark with a Sharpie. Then when I go full harpoon I bias it appropriately. In this case, the left side holes need to go forward just a hair.

 

Boy howdy the front wheel wells are going to be crowded on this Lola   

 

[Pablo]

Lola body is trimmed/pinned and ready for a trip to Jersey along with the Lotus sistership body for Noose paint