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#1 DavidR

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Posted 29 May 2020 - 09:20 PM

I know many topics on these motors . Most are old so I thought id see if anyone has found any new information or tech tips on these, talking JK Hawk 25, retro and 7. This is all we race and lately we have had motors that start out fast but soon slow way down, im talking after one race. I have tested motors that rev high on power supply but turn slow times in the cars. Is there a correlation of amp draw as to what will be a better motor. I have tried the Screamers and Ralph Thorne prepped motors but none have turned out to be anything special. Thanks for any input
David Rodgers Sr.
3/24/54-3/25/2023
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#2 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 30 May 2020 - 08:00 AM

TO ME, the weak link of this type of motor in the application that WE use them in slot cars is in the brush arm and wiring up of the motors.  Too much heat can lead to weakening the spring effect that these parts cannot handle.

 

1) Over gearing can make the car go faster at first, but overload over a short time.  Better to give away the top speed on the main straight for good power on the short straights for a longer time.

 

2) Leadwire connection  puts a lot of heat on the spring arms.  Tin both the lead wire and the connection point before joining them with the shortest possible time you can.  OR - use Chicagoland push on connectors for fast motor changes with no heat transfer.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing  around Chicago-land

 

Diode/Omni repair specialist
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IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS

Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
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65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#3 DavidR

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Posted 30 May 2020 - 08:19 PM

Thanks, I think heat does factor in but I had hoped For some tips or tricks to make them faster or at least more consistent
David Rodgers Sr.
3/24/54-3/25/2023
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#4 Phil Beukema

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 12:23 PM

Everybody has tried everything with these motors. It boils down to the luck of the draw. But the good news is that the motors are getting a little more consistent than before. If you get a crappy motor, change it out before the race, it's not going to get any better. Learn how to peek at the brushes so you know when the motor needs replacing before it quits in the middle of the race. Keep the motor very clean and lubed.

 

If you want to go faster, think of maximizing the other car components like the correct tires for the current track surface, perfect gear mesh, braid condition, body mounting alignment and a flat unbent chassis. Keep everything in top shape so you don't break down in the middle of a race because you thought you could squeak  one more race out of the frayed lead wires.

 

Drive better, stay out of the way of accidents and learn to pass slower cars smoothly and quickly . Don't come off the track, you'll never make up the time.

 

Your controller is your friend. Be sure you have the brakes and sensitivity adjusted for your driving style and the lane you are in. Every lanes is different.

 

It never hurts to practice hand eye coordination (playing ping pong...).


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#5 old & gray

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 03:56 PM

Possible tip – we were running Hark 7s in flexies on Friday nights. Usual gearing was 9:28 or 9:27 with the brave guys trying 9:26. (Yes rules were 48 pitch). An experienced racer showed up and started running 8:26 and 8:27. He was giving up a couple of feet to the best motor on the straight but by the sixth heat his motor was still strong while the rest of us were fading. I have switched to 8:26 though I have a motor that ran best with 8:28 and another that needs 9:28 because it never develops revs. Bottom line - raise your gear ratio for: better acceleration off the turns, better brakes, and lower running temperature. A trifecta for a faster car.

 

Personally I feel if a motor runs at a higher RPM in a corner it is smoother and easier to drive, but I won’t go into that theory, it’s a matter which you can easily determine for yourself.

(These comments are based on a common tire diameter.)


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#6 DavidR

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 07:24 PM

Thanks for the replies, im not new to racing or these motors ive run them in many different types of cars and just thought someone might have something new to try but guess they are just same as always. As to getting better I have found the opposite as good motors were much easier to come by than what im finding now. Oh well the search continues
David Rodgers Sr.
3/24/54-3/25/2023
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#7 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 09:37 PM

You need to think of these motors as small four cylinders racers when you might be used to a big V-8....A V-8 you can abuse and it keeps going, the four banger burns up if you strain it too hard.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing  around Chicago-land

 

Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS

Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#8 swodem

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 01:28 AM

Its likely the comm has gone off
 
Take one that has gone off and sit it on top of a torch, and take a pic like this and post it
 
There are a few ways to clean the comm back up, and then it will likely come back to (original) life until it dirties up again

65e6ff35f7daa4f25813c10638498144.jpg

Steve Meadows


#9 Phil Beukema

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 02:19 AM

A good squirt of PURE ?


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#10 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 09:08 AM

If it is BLACK, then it may well be electroplated with carbon from too much oil or other carbon compound liquids used when the motor is running/arcing.  The most common resistor in the electronics world is a carbon resistor. STOP using any carbon based chemical to break-in or 'boost' the motors.

 

Those 'fast' motors are exceptions and not typical motors.  Keep the motor cool and performance does not fall off.  Rabbits do not always win the race.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing  around Chicago-land

 

Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS

Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America






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