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Drag racing procedures


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#1 SlotCarsten

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 06:44 AM

Hi there.

 

Is there anybody out there with enough patience to explain to me how this whole drag racing works.
I don't mean cars, but the track, the timing and the race procedures.

I have never ever seen a slog drag racing track in real life. They are scares in my geography. However I am still curious as how they are setup and run.

 

Here are a couple of questions for starters:

 

Electricals

1) At what voltage do they run?

2) I assume that the track (Controller) always have power on.

3) That the "controller" is nothing but an ON switch.

4) Or do you need to "drive" the car to stageing, or do you just put the car on the track in the correct starting position.

 

X-mas tree
1) I understand that you use a x-mas tree for starting. Are you using "Stageing" light?
2) How many down count light?

3) Are the down count and go lights precisely spaced in time, or is the "go" signal subject to a little randomness.

4) Do you consider "lack" in relays and old school lights bulps to be a problem, or do you simple use LED's.

 

Timing

1) How many sensor do you have down the strip?

2) What kinds of measurements do you use?

3) Do you run with handicap. I.e. right and left not starting at the same time?

 

Track

1) What kind of length are used?

2) Always two tracks, or can you have more.

3) Shutdown length?

 

Race procedings

1) What kind of race. All together, best time wins or elimination and advancement two at at time.

2) How many drivers can you have?

 

That is for starters. Any bidders?

 

Best regards, Carsten Groennemann.
 


Carsten Grønnemann
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#2 Bags

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 08:02 AM

I’ll give it a shot......

 

The track power is set at 16.2 - 16.4 vdc Usually provided by a power supply and a capacitor for each lane.

the track is always “on” if you will, then when a controller (can be a simple on / off button ) is hooked up to the positive and negative post at the drivers station so the car will be provided power. We push the car into the staging lights by hand. Once the car is staged ( both top lights on the tree are on) the computer timing system will start the tree and the next three yellow lights will start down to turn on the green “go” light. That can be changed from a Bracket tree (3 lights down) to a Pro / Heads Up tree (we call 2 lights) where all 3 yellow light up at once then green. The difference in the two are the 3 light tree has a .500 perfect reaction time and the 2 light tree has a .200-.400 perfect reaction time depending on the system setup. If you leave before the green you will red light ,which is a foul and you will lose.
 

The track has a starting line sensor prestage stage and go/red. Then there can be a 60 foot 660 foot 1000 foot followed by a speed trap and finish line. 
 

Tracks are different lengths the shortest is 27 1/2 feet 1/8 mile. 41 feet 1000 foot  and 55 feet is a 1/4 mile. The shutdown’s vary in length anywhere from 15 to 40 feet depending on space. The shutdown area has tire traction glue in in to stop the cars,it also does not have power it’s dead track. Drag strips have 2 lanes for competitors. 
 

You can race what we call brackets, that’s where you put a dial in ( an estimate of the time it take your car to make it down the track ) it’s called ET. That race is a staggered start. Or you can run on an Index, that’s where both lanes have the same set time to run and leave at the same time ,If your car goes quicker than that time you will “ breakout “ and lose that can also happen in a bracket race. Then we have the heads up racing. Run what you brung and hope you have enough,both leave at the same time first to finish wins!

 

Drivers will enter multiple cars in any event/race.

 

hope this helps you understand slot drag racing ,check out the you tube vids 
 

Keep em Green!

 

Bags


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#3 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 09:09 AM

1) the track 'hook-up' (is standard slot terms) is WHITE and BLACK posts only.  The Negative (left braid) is hard wired to the power supply.  If a ground (-) is needed for controller operation, a 9 volt battery is needed, such as for a blast relay or fan.

 

2) New drag track wiring systems are commercially limited.  The old standard was the TrikTrax self contained system (pre-286 technology), and the modern standard is the Trakmate from Canada.  I believe you can still download the operating program to read the Trakmate manuel and capabilities.  Used TrikTrax are getting rare that work and the 'program' is on an optical chip.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing  around Chicago-land

 

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Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
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65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#4 MSwiss

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 09:10 AM

 
The track power is set to 16.2V - 16.4V
the track is always on if you will, then when a controller (can be a simple on / off button ) is hooked up to the positive and negative post

Edit - Looks like Larry also posted.

Carsten,
I'll make a few corrections on the above post #2 and add 1 or 2 things, along with a pic.

Correct in that the track is always on(no relays) but a drag strip does not have a positive and negative post.

It's a traditional controller hookup, but without a brake circuit or post for one.

IOW, the negative from the power supply goes straight to one braid.

The positive from the power supply goes to one post(I have mine marked "White", but for some reason, some guys have that hookup on their controller with a red boot).

The other post is the positive power, now regulated by the controller, going to the other braid.

As far as the 16.2V-16.4V, that's based on the output of a popular power supply.

I've heard 16.0V is the "legal" max for the most common governing body.

But strips run on whatever they want.

One popular strip, in the area, runs on 12 volts, as do others.

Mine is fully adjustable.

Here is what a readout looks like on a solo pass.

The MPH is based on the finish line sensor, and one 30 inches before it.

20200614_090310.jpg

Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559


#5 SlotCarsten

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 10:41 AM

Thank you all.
That will get me started.


Carsten Grønnemann
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#6 Jason Holmes

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 10:10 PM

Carsten

 

Just a ??  Richard Curnutte the Owner of a New Track in California is building a 4 Lane Drag Strip and was looking for a timing system that would work on all 4 lanes

 

he has been told that no one makes them he will need 2 systems just asking if you figure it out and could do 4 in 1 system let him Know 

 

Jason



#7 BrettC

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 04:59 AM

Mr Slotcars in Hallam, Victoria, Australia, has a 4 lane drag strip, not sure on the timing system.

look him up on FaceBook would be easiest.


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#8 Bags

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 09:44 AM

Mike  most slot drag racers come out of the 1/1 world. They relate to the +/- stuff because it’s power is dc voltage. 
 

Look at the controllers they most likely have a heavy clip on them. The standard copper alligator clip will wear out from use,making them smooth. They will pull off the posts kinda easy then. Not an ideal situation during a race.
 

Most people just go to the auto parts store and buy a new set of clips. Usually only 2 in the pack, 1 red boot 1 black boot. Hence the +/- . 
 

There are drag controllers that are polarity sensitive, Stealth makes one. If you switch the clips on the posts the car will take off down the track without pulling the trigger. 


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#9 MSwiss

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 10:08 AM

Mike  most slot drag racers come out of the 1/1 world. They relate to the +/- stuff because it’s power is dc voltage. 
 
Look at the controllers they most likely have a heavy clip on them. The standard copper alligator clip will wear out from use,making them smooth. They will pull off the posts kinda easy then. Not an ideal situation during a race.
 
Most people just go to the auto parts store and buy a new set of clips. Usually only 2 in the pack, 1 red boot 1 black boot. Hence the +/- . 
 
There are drag controllers that are polarity sensitive, Stealth makes one. If you switch the clips on the posts the car will take off down the track without pulling the trigger.

I had a couple serious drag racers by, last night, and when I saw one had cheap jumper cable clips on his controller, the light bulb went on.

  

Mr Slotcars in Hallam, Victoria, Australia, has a 4 lane drag strip, not sure on the timing system.
look him up on FaceBook would be easiest.

If this the track, it appears to be 2-2 lane strips, next to each other.

When Tom K.shows times that he has run, it is with a normal Trackmate timing system.

Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559


#10 BrettC

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 02:45 PM

As I said Im not sure on the timing system, I dont drag race, just know there is 4 lanes.
Message the owner, his name is Peter.
Brett Chalmers

#11 Tom Katsanis

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 05:21 PM

I drag race at Mr Slot car they are using 2 trackmate systems I have asked Peter about this before I do believe they can be synched or something because we have run 4 cars at a time there I can ask Peter later how it's done the shop is on my way home.

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