19 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

The first "hardbody" I built didn't require any parts assembling. This one does

 

 

The instructions say to use "Tamiya Cement". My question is, what is the difference between Tamiya Cement and regular CA glue? I have several types of CA on hand, including "LOCTITE" professional liquid super glue. Do I really need to get some Tamiya cement, or will regular CA liquid work the same?

 

Thanks,

Pablo

[Ramcatlarry]

I think they just want you to use more of THEIR products.

 

Styrene cements are mostly for the 'huffers' these days.  Various super glues (CA) work well.  For a slot car that will be 'in the wall' on frequent occasions, add a thin layer of "E-6000" contact adhesive on the inside of the body to help the impact shocks .

[James Wendel]

Some people back up impact areas with "Shoe Goo"

[Revtor]

The regular old testors orange tube is styrene cement. It actually fuses the parts (it is a solvent cement)
Super glue will bond the parts yes, but its less forgiving than the solvent cement.

Backing up the points internally is a good idea. It should at least keep all the broken parts off the track!!!

[Tom Thumb Hobbies]

Not all CA is plastic compatible. And Tamiya liquid is some of the best model glue around.


Mike McMasters
Tom Thumb Hobbies

[Al Hernandez]

Very big different between CA Glue and Tamiya cement.

Tamiya Cement is in the same family as Ambroid, Micro Mark Same Stuff, Plastruct Bond-2, Testors Liquid cement. It's main chemical is MEK based. It works off of capillary action. Join the 2 pieces together and flow the glue between the 2 parts as they are matted together. It melts the plastic together giving you a stronger bond.

 

CA glue is Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue /Krazy Glue) fast setting doesn't hold up to impact as good. Just bonds the 2 pieces together. I prefer the welding process with the cement glues. I have used the CA glue with a tissue or paper towel and it acts like fiber glass sheet. Apply CA glue, laydown tissue/paper towel, apply more CA glue. Super strong bond

 

Shoe Goo/Goop/E6000/Gorilla Clear Grip is always a great addition as a security blanket.

 

[Pablo]

Thanks everybody. I'm a believer, I'll get some Tamiya cement 

[Eddie Fleming]

Is Ambroid glue still around?

 

We used it on control line airplanes way back when. but I could not find any a year or so ago. 

[Bud Greene]

Super Glue isn't strong enough for a slot car environment. I like the regular Testors for slot cars it just dries slow

[Tim Neja]

Tamiya is "styrene" cement.  You can get this at all the fabric stores too.  It does actually MELT the styrene to make a permanent bond.  Super glues will NOT.  

[Bud Greene]

What's the kit look like?

[Pablo]

I haven't started it yet

 

http://slotblog.net/...class-race-car/

[mdiv]

I've used Gorilla Glue 2-part epoxy for my gluing plastics together needs.  Not sure if it is the same as Tamiya/Testors where the parts are welded, but it's the only thing I can find at Home Depot that says "yes, you can use this on plastics."

Anyone chime in?  Thanks!

Mike D

That Lotus Europa is cool Paul, we got one from John Dilworth in PETG a few years back, Rodney ended up with it and built a gorgeous car with the body.

[mgerbetz]

Hey Pablo,
Ive built several hard bodies over the years for racing including FCR oval, drag racing and just for fun. For me, nothing beats a good CA glue + an accelerator. Plus CA glue comes in different consistencies for different parts and situations.
Just my 2 cents....
Build on !
Gerbetz

[mickey thumbs]

Does anyone know if current 1/32 plastic bodies (slot.it, NSR , Thunderslot) are made from styrene or a similar plastic that can be bonded with styrene cement? I have assumed they are not and have been using CA backed up with E6000. Tough to choose between rapid curing time vs. strength for the styrene hardbodies.

[Ramcatlarry]

I prefer the 'breakaway' aspect of the CA bond, as long as you can find the part that came off the car.  The welded bond IS stronger, but the break/crack will be in a different weak spot and might be terminal rather than repairable.

 

Used to use Shoo goo on the hardbodies, but the flowability of the E6000 is nicer, lighter, and also works well on thin vac-formed bodies as well.

[DavidR]

We all are using E6000 glue. This stuff glues models together as strong as steel we wreck and crash and parts stay in place its available at Home Depot lowes and Walmart for around 5 bucks

[orangecrate]

on my hardbodies i use clear automotive silicone sealer for years with great results, if have repair damages it is easy to remove.

[slotbaker]

For kits that have multi piece body parts that need to be assembled to form the body 'shell', I use styrene cement to build the body, and sometimes back the joint with Devcon (roughing up the surface a bit for a key) to reinforce it.

Then use clear silicone to attach bumpers, grilles, windows, lenses and other similar parts.

Be carefull with styrene cement around the clear window/lense parts as it can cause them to fog.

You can also use 'Canopy' glue or PVA wood working glue to attach the clear parts, but it is not as strong as styrene or silicone.

[Al Hernandez]

Is Ambroid glue still around?
 
We used it on control line airplanes way back when. but I could not find any a year or so ago. 

MicroMark Same Stuff is Ambroid. Can’t find the Ambroid brand anymore.


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