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Which controller to buy?


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#1 CharlieTaylor

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 02:54 PM

Hi everyone

I am slowly getting back into slot cars tagging my son along, he is hooked. I have an old Koford controller from the 80's. Before that, many laps ago I started with a Cox controller. I think they were $14 at the time. I was around 11. The Koford I use it now to race my Intl 15 wing cars, yep they still run. I will be migrating to Group 12 class using the X-12 arms. Can I still use the Koford controller? I see the new generation has more power bands, the Koford has 5 plus adjustable braking.

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#2 MSwiss

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 03:14 PM

Depends on the ohmage.

 

What is that one?

 

A 1 ohm?

 

If so, if you are running wing cars with no, or very little front weight, and depending on track conditions, it might be hard to take off from a stop, without popping out.

 

As far as new electronic controllers, you can't go wrong with a Difalco.

 

PS-I would of had the pictured controller, in my hands. LOL


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#3 SpeedyNH

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 03:21 PM

looks like a couple Ohms to me. i think it should work fine. wing cars don't require the fineness of control that road racers do. so five bands, i'd sure try it. IIRC, G12's and I-15 motors weren't all that different from each other. plus, you can always move the taps around on the resistor to customize the response (or even get a different one if needed). 

 

Of course electronic controllers are much more adaptable, but this one is surely worth a shot to start out with. 


Steve Lang

#4 Mr. M

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 06:49 PM

I occasionally use a 1982 Difalco micro switch on power and brake with a 2 ohm Parma ceramic resistor that works fine. One ohm with G12 and GF was a bit too trwichy.


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#5 mreibman

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 09:11 AM

If your goal is to go out and have fun, then yes, it will work. Those things came in 1-4 ohm configuration, and that may make a difference. We use variants of these (I have one, but prefer same gen difalco) regularly with a variety of cars.

 

For cars like the JK RTR cars, probably 2 or 3 ohms would be better. For wing cars, 1-2 ohms should be ok. More ohms = more resistance, slower at lower speeds.

 

Suggestions to use this controller:

- verify the ohms of the resistor (printed on or use a meter)

- Adjust some of the wires on the resistor to give you some comfort at the slower speeds (trial and error)

- Verify that the brake pot is still working.

- replace any corroded or dull clips/connections

- Look at adding a blast relay for full power connection, that will give you basically an extra band

 

The thing is, you've got a rock solid controller there. Where it might not be IDEAL for today's cars, it will be functional. If you have to replace the resistor with a different ohm one, you need a 100W resistor, and they're commonly available on ebay for $7-20. But you definitely need to stay in that 1-4 ohm range. (I got a 5, but haven't tried it yet).

 

Beyond that? I think the majority here will agree that you can't go wrong with a difalco. The electronic controllers will give you a much easier driving experience.


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#6 Dave Buchholz

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 09:24 AM

I use a Defalco with a mush button added. It comes in handy for dealing with track call restarts when you stop on a curve. I take advantage of it for Retro , GTP and Wing Cars.

I also have a selection of resistors, 78, 113 and 148 for varied cars and conditions. There are under $20.00 per resistor.

#7 Jim Difalco

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 09:29 AM

I can see the Clarostat name on the resistor. What numbers are below the name? This should give you the ohms. You have 7 bands below the bottom first band tap. You should probably clean off the bands then move that wire to the first band on the resistor. This will slow up the controllers response if needed. Move the other wires down 6 then 5 then 4 then 3 bands respectively to space them out more evenly.


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#8 CharlieTaylor

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 12:36 PM

Thanks for all the feedback. Yes it is a Clarostat resistor, 1 Ohm, 100 Watt. I took it apart, cleaned all the contacts then ohmed it out. The brake still works as I rotate the dial. Controller shows open at rest then 0 ohms at full on. I used it two weeks ago running my wing cars at the Melbourne FL raceway. It should be better now with clean contacts. I will have to experiment moving the wires on the resistor taps with the newer wing cars Group 12. 

Charlie


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