30 replies to this topic

[rvec]

The Can-Am Series began its run in 1966. It was a no-holds-barred, big money series that attracted some of the best driving talent and a diverse mix of brands and concepts. I attended several Can-Am events at both Bridgehampton and Mid-Ohio raceways during the late 60s and can attest to the fact that Can-Am was, for me, the most exciting racing of the period. The all out speed and sounds of these big block and to a lesser extent small block and even high winding European racing prototypes was mind blowing.

The first Can-Am champion was John Surtees driving a Lola T-70. At this point, I cannot help but digress to tell the unlikely story of Johns participation in the Can-Am. Surtees was a top Ferrari driver, bringing home a Formula 1 World Championship for the make in 64. Since that world championship, tensions began to build between Enzo and John. The final straw was an incident preceding the 66 LeMans race. As you may recall, Ford began challenging Ferrari in the Sports Car world with the GT40. The Ford GT40s were quick but suffered from serious development problems. By the 66 season, Ford had ironed out the bugs and became a real contender, fielding several big block GT40 Mk IIs for the LeMans race. These cars had been quite successful to that point in 66, winning both Daytona and Sebring in that year. The table was set for a war of speed. Fords GT40s would be up against the Ferrari Factory 330 P3s, four liter, fuel injected prototypes. Ferrari knew it was outgunned as far as horsepower and top speed was concerned. Ferrari strategy for LeMans was to send its Surtees/Scarfiotti entry out as a rabbit to try to break the Fords. Surtees, the number one driver was scheduled to start the race, however, at the last minute, word came down from Enzo that Scarfiottis uncle (CEO of Fiat) would be in attendance and wanted nephew Scarfiotti to start he race. Surtees, not one to suffer fools was furious. After and acrimonious and heated discussion with Team Manager Dragoni, Surtees quit the Ferrari Team. Ford went on to win LeMans in 66. One can only wonder what might have happened if Surtees, arguably Ferraris top driver was in the hunt. Surtees went on to campaign the Lola T70 in the Can-Am and won the Can-Am championship in 66.
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
Bruce McLaren finished second in the Can-Ams inaugural year driving an M1B and vowed to return with a winner. For the 67 season, McLaren developed the monocoque chassis M6 powered by a small block Chevy. McLaren hired Denny Hulme to drive a second M6 and the two dominated the series. Although the design was quite successful, Bruce decided that a big block Chevy was needed. The M6 was redesigned with a sturdier bulkhead and a big block was installed as a stressed member. The upgraded car was christened the M8.
 

 

With much time on my hands, I began looking for another slot car project. I recently acquired a Resilient Resins McLaren M8. I selected the McLaren because of its iconic Can-Am status but also because it is quite wide and low making it a good choice for our True Scale class. For the chassis, I selected a Scholer Intruder chassis that I had in inventory for some time. (See images below of body and chassis)
 

 

 

Body work

Typically, Resilient Resins bodies are relatively light; however, I felt that I wanted the lightest possible body topping the chassis. As a consequence I plan to use a Dremel tool to shave unwanted resin from the inside being careful not to thin the body too much. After thoroughly washing the mold release from the body, primer then paint will be applied. I have not yet decided on a color scheme. I plan to use custom, vinyl decals to finish the job.

Scholer Chassis

Several modifications were made to the production chassis to optimize performance.
 

 


Center Section
 


Primitive Tool for Machining Bushings
 


Motor Bracket
 

 


Center Section with Front Pan and Axle Hanger

More to come - finished chassis with side pans and then body

[Martin]

Love your choice of car Rich, I have the same body in process (but with me I just chip away slowly) lots of projects in play at my bench.

I did a lot of mods my resin body to give a lower stance, cut out all the resin vents in the rear etc and added the side scoops.

I wanted it to be a hard body version of my 1969/70 pro car.

At some point I had thoughts of using the resin M8 as a buck for a vac-formed body as I could not find an exact replacement for my race beaten car.

I will be watching you progress, and get inspired to get mine finished and painted.

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[MattD]

I am partial to the Canam  cars.    

 

Not sure what model this is, but I copied it from a Japanese model kit a few years ago.  I decalled it to  a picture I found on the internet.

It was just a slush cast body, but I was only making  a couple of them and didn't want to take time to do a two piece mold.  

 

The chassis is an old FCR that I cut down and shortened with an FK180 motor.   It runs  competetive times on my track if I put silicone tires on it and take off the chrome display wheels.

 

 

Bruce Patterson does make a decent Mclaren vac body.   Again, I am not sure what model this is.  

 

 

I have a P4 from Victor that is next on my Canam list.

[rvec]

Nice job guys.

[Martin]

Matt, the orange car is M8A

The blue car is an 1968 M6B McLeagle

[rvec]

Today I was able to block out some slot car time to finish the side pans. Below is an image of the finished chassis (Ignore the size of the rear wheels. I will install .925 rear wheels and adjust rear chassis height to conform to our .055 inch ground clearance).

 

 

 

[rvec]

Body - Ready for paint
 

 

[Martin]

Rich, are you thinking about lowering this body? To me it looks like you could drop it 1/4"

If you are I will take a pic of what I did to mine?

[rvec]

Martin,

 

I just completed paint so I do not think I will be lowering. I think the image might be a little deceiving - It looks OK to me. 

[Martin]

I look forward to seeing some color on your M8.

 

You have inspired me to do a bit more work on mine. Which is heading to be a M8B

 

Put a bit more putty on the area just in front of the windshield, cut out those toy like grills. To be replaced with mesh. Shortened the nose some.

 

Love the way the front wheel arch sweeps back on the M8B.

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[Alchemist]

Hi Rich,

 

Looking forward to see your project in paint!

 

 

Martin,

 

Your car also looks good!

 

Ernie

[rvec]

Finished the chassis, set clearances and tested with an old GT40 body. The body was too narrow so I just taped it on top of the side pans. The motor used was an old T10 I had laying around. The gears were 7/35 (48 pitch). The car ran a credible 4.83 seconds - The same time I was able to run with a finished GT40 powered by a Proslot 16D. The Proslot has a bit more snap so I was pleased with the results also because of the way the test body was mounted, it certainly made the CG higher. Below are images of the test car, the finished GT40 and the test car chassis that I will use on the M8
 

 

 

BTW, I should be done with decals tomorrow. I will post as soon as possible

[Martin]

Look forward to seeing it.

[rvec]

Some may not approve of my selection of black with a fantasy livery but many in our club already have the typical McLaren colors on their rides.  Below are a couple of images of the car nearly finished. All that is left if floor polish, interior and exhaust stacks
 

 

[James Wendel]

Lookin' good, Rich.  I hate to think how fast it will be with a strong motor in it.

 

Todd had a black McLaren that he routinely destroyed the competition with at Pelican Park, so you are not the first to go black.  How did you fix the broken corner of the rear spoiler?

 

JRW

[rvec]

Lookin' good, Rich.  I hate to think how fast it will be with a strong motor in it.

 

Todd had a black McLaren that he routinely destroyed the competition with at Pelican Park, so you are not the first to go black.  How did you fix the broken corner of the rear spoiler?

 

JRW

 

A small piece came off and I glued it with plastic welder

[MattD]

More nice work Rich.

[Martin]

Love the original sponsor theme.   

[rvec]

Thanks Matt and Martin

[MattD]

Rich we have so many great paint colors today and with so many artistic paint jobs the last 50 years,  it's hard to stick to the "same old same on" .   I like to see imagination be a part of slot car building.

[rvec]

Matt,

 I agree. I may do another body. I recall going the the Can-Am at Bridgehampton in the mid-late 60s. There was an independent named Lothar Motschenbacher who drove McLarens. His cars were always quite good but not up to the pros like McLaren/Hulme or even Donohue driving for Penske.  Below is an image of one of his cars. He was partial to number 11 and red. ]

 

[rvec]

Matt and others,

 

Although my black paint job appears OK, I was not happy with it. What have you found to be a good combination of primer/paint for resin cars

[MattD]

Rich, nothing works better for me than Tamiya or Testors lacquer.    The white Duplicolor lacquer primer also works fine.   I clean a resin body with a spray cleaner, 409, Mr Clean, whatever I can find,    I rinse it and wash it with cheap dish washing detergent next,   I don't use anything that has additives for skin softness and such.   Then I use an SOS pad, rinse that and wet sand.   After all that I still sometimes get pin holes, small bubbles, fish eyes.    I have no idea why.  I do not use any kind of mold release.  I've found using mold release can cause problems as it sometimes seems to get into the wet resin.    When I get paint troubles like this, I sand it out and paint again.   If I still have problems I put a thin coat of Tamiya lacquer putty on the bad areas.   I smooth it with my finger.   I then sand it smooth and paint again.  Usually that makes it work out OK.  I just got done painting two 1/32 Lotus open wheel bodies that I cast,   I've almost used a whole can of paint on these two bodies.  That is about 5 times more paint then they should need. All that paint means an obvious loss of detail and the frustration of doing it over and over.

 

Maybe somebody can add some info to help us both.

[rvec]

Thanks Matt,

Some good ideas. I will use them on the next body. I thought the problems were my own doing and I encounter the pin holes and fish eyes (to the max) on the first paint job. I ending up stripping the body and starting over. What a pain the the a$$.  One of my friends has also used the Tamiya paint with "better" results. 

 

These hints will be taken to heart - The next project is molding and casting the GT40 MkIV

[grooverunner]

Matt,
Sounds like you have a silicone contamination problem from the mold itself. The only thing I know of that strips silicone and cleans it away is alcohol.I use 90% or better isopropinal alcohol when cleaning silicone off of thing I need to finish for work.
It doesn't take much silicone to destroy a paint job and it will keep coming through coat after coat.
Use a wet clean rag or paper towel wet the resin body or parts good
Wipe real good 2 or 3 times and change the rag or paper towel each time. Don't sand the body till it is desiliconed. You basically want to wash / soak it off till there is nothing left. This works for me at my job painting things.
Ken