28 replies to this topic

[Rotorranch]

I love new tools... This arrived yesterday... $72.00 on Amazon. I haven't used it yet, but on Pablo's recommendation, as well as others here on SB, I got one.

 

Feels cheap, looks cheap, but as long as it does the job I'm happy. If it lasts as long as my Ungars and Hakko 455, It's all good.

 

Rotor

 

[Jim Difalco]

Great iron with a lot of mass in the tip for my production work so it maintains the tip temperature. I just wish the cord was more flexible.

[Rotorranch]

I agree with the cord being a little heavy and stiff, but I'm used to that from my old Hakko 455. I like my Hakko 888 because of the light weight cord, but it's lacking the mass and temp.

 

Rotor

[Zippity]

A great choice of soldering iron  

[Jay Guard]

Great choice, IMHO the best all-around soldering iron out there for slot car work.

[tonyp]

Best iron I ever used. The rock star of irons.

[MattD]

Jeff, I bought the same one 3-4 years ago.     Beats any I've had before.  A few months ago I was going to change the tip and the barrel would not unscrew I ended up breaking the ceramic inside.   I got new parts and emailedHakko USA to be sure about  how to solder the new ceramic element in place.   They were very helpful and told me they would refurbish it for $20.  They sent me a UPS sticker and I returned it for service.   I got it back about 2 weeks later packaged just like yours.   Total cost was $20 plus $7 return postage and it is like a new one.  Great customer service of a great iron.

[MSwiss]

Great iron with a lot of mass in the tip for my production work so it maintains the tip temperature. I just wish the cord was more flexible.

Carefully stripping this much off the outer jacket makes a huge difference.

I don't even think about it anymore.

[Don Weaver]

Great idea, Mike!

[MSwiss]

I got the idea from a local wing racer, Michael Iga.

 

One of Canadian racer buddies, Kevin Abe, stripped his, 100%, including the cloth.

 

It's just the wires, IIRC, with a few tie wraps around them, to keep them somewhat managed.

[gotboostedvr6]

I've been using the 100v model since maybe 2018. It's only $55 ish. Works the same imo

[Tim Neja]

I've got one in my slot box--it's been going strong for over 10 years--- great iron.   I use their solder station at home--works great and has  a much lighter cord!

[jimht]

Jeff, I bought the same one 3-4 years ago.     Beats any I've had before.  A few months ago I was going to change the tip and the barrel would not unscrew I ended up breaking the ceramic inside.   I got new parts and emailedHakko USA to be sure about  how to solder the new ceramic element in place.   They were very helpful and told me they would refurbish it for $20.  They sent me a UPS sticker and I returned it for service.   I got it back about 2 weeks later packaged just like yours.   Total cost was $20 plus $7 return postage and it is like a new one.  Great customer service of a great iron.

I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Total cost with them replacing the parts plus shipping back to me was $53.51.

 

I now recommend frequently taking the tip off the ceramic heater to make sure it doesn't freeze over time.   

[scaleuser]

Another caution: don't cut back the mains voltage as a way of controlling the heat. That can damage it or at least throw off the calibration. Use only the on-handle control.       

[SoCal Bill]

Locktite LB8036 anti-seize.  I still use some old Ungar anti-seize compound that I have left.

[MattD]

I put some anti seize on it when I got it back.   My cost of $20 plus one way shipping doesn't include the ceramic heater ad new barrel I ordered from a supplier, that was around $35.

[Rotorranch]

I was wondering about anti-seize... I've used high temp anti seize on my 455. 

 

I guess I'll see when I take it apart.

 

Rotor

[Martin]

Jeff,

I really like the thermostat feature on your new tool.

I made this one from a light dimmer and a 2 gang plug about 40 years ago for a wax pen.Now I just plug in any soldering iron. Been using this as a way to control soldering heat for 30 years with no issues.

I like you can see what heat you have from the small light bulb. When I walk away I just knock the needle to low heat. 

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[crazyphysicsteacher]

Love the iron, i have two. One for home and one for the road.
While you are still good, order another tip. Have an extra one on hand as once it goes bad it really goes bad.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

[Rotorranch]

And tube and sleeve... Been there, got the t-shirt!

 

👍👍👍

 

Rotor

[MattD]

I don't have a temp control except the one built in the iron,   I did put together a timer 30 years ago.     It's one of those rotary timers that can be cranked around to 60 minutes   It's in a box on my work bench and it has a plug that brings power in and it feeds another box with a 110 receptacle in it.    My iron is always plugged in, but doesn't turn on until I twist the timer to 10 minutes or so.    I haven't walked off and left it on  and burned it up  for 25 years!!!

[Larry Horner]

You'll soon find yourself wondering why you didn't buy one much sooner!

[scaleuser]

A dimmer like Martin's in post 18 should not be used with the Hakko 601 or any feedback driven temp controlled ceramic iron. Such dimmers are fine with old school nichrome type heating elements. Like the iron shown with it.

[Bill from NH]

The same probably holds true for the Inland temperature control, Good thing I have some Ungar irons & parts..

[Martin]

Good to know Bill and Don.

I guess I am more old school that I realized. But you know the saying if its not broke.........