Be careful. The tape might pull those "dots" off. Maybe just wipe them down with a little WD40 or something that won't remove paint. If the markings are bad anyway I just have at it with the CRC and repaint the dots.
1968 USRA/MCS race - 'Death Throes of the Inlines'
#51
Posted 20 December 2020 - 05:53 PM
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#52
Posted 20 December 2020 - 05:56 PM
Masking tape will take off the paint? Never knew. I will take your advice.
#53
Posted 20 December 2020 - 06:39 PM
Tape could take off paint. It depends on how well the paint adheres to the magnet and the tape adheres to the paint dots. Just be a little cautious....
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#54
Posted 20 December 2020 - 06:56 PM
That is why I always take pictures of paint markings.
#55
Posted 21 December 2020 - 03:38 PM
All together and broken in at 3 volts:
It started out drawing 2.5 amps and settled down to 1.5 amps:
It sounds good and runs smoothly so it time to build a chassis for it..........
- Jencar17, MSwiss, Alchemist and 3 others like this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#56
Posted 21 December 2020 - 04:24 PM
Looks good, I love the shunted brushes.
#57
Posted 21 December 2020 - 08:04 PM
Paul Wolcott
#58
Posted 01 January 2021 - 12:53 PM
Thanks guys. I apologize for the long pause with this thread. I've been dealing with some health issues that have kept me away from the work bench. I hope to be back at soon.
In the mean time, Rodney has sent me some interesting pictures. He has a period inline, plumber, GP chassis by Doug Henline.
Here's what Rodney said about it:
"Here is the Doug Henline chassis car. Chassis was purchased from PdL decades ago. Steube power. Car is crazy fast on the Blue King straights with modern tires. Handles great too."
With it's date of 9-68 it was built a few months before the last USRA/MCS race.
Thanks Rodney
- Pablo, Jencar17, Tex and 3 others like this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#59
Posted 01 January 2021 - 01:00 PM
Thanks Rick & Rodney, and take care of yourself Rick - no need to apologize!
Nice to see one of the chassis from Doug "Inline" Henline - he made a habit of winning these GP races, but I've never seen, or maybe noticed one of his later productions.
Don
#60
Posted 01 January 2021 - 06:28 PM
Wow! That is all I can say. Sooooo cool!
It ticks all the boxes, beautiful Checkpoint motor, Weldun crown, Riggens, a Henline chassis and a pretty body.
#61
Posted 05 January 2021 - 06:03 PM
I've decided on which version of the chassis pictured in the race reports I'll be building.
I've already built a version of Rodney's pictured Henline car years ago:
I've also built a version of Henline's race winner:
Now I think I'll build an "inspired by" version (not an exact clone) of John Anderson's car:
- Alchemist likes this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#63
Posted 06 January 2021 - 01:08 PM
Nice motor Isaac.
I'm using the popular Russkit motor bracket, Dynamic bearing retainers (duffys) and an Associated 1/16" thick drop arm for the low profile Dynamic guide:
When soldering the duffys onto the motor bracket I've always run the tip of the soldering iron all the way around it to make sure I got a good joint.
This time I cleaned the 50 year old parts in Tarnex, acid fluxed the crud out of them, touched a drop of solder on the tip of my iron to one spot (see the red circles in the picture) and held it there until all that flux was bubbling like crazy:
Look at that beautiful little fillet of silver solder around the entire duffy. I ASSumed I'd need a mini torch to get that result. A perfect joint with almost no cleanup needed:
This is probably not news to all you experienced builders out there but I thought I'd share it for all the newer guys...........like me apparently .
Next is a brace around the motor mounting surface......
.......and a couple of U-braces to reinforce the axle bearings:
- Alchemist, Peter Horvath and Tom Katsanis like this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#64
Posted 06 January 2021 - 01:23 PM
Are your braces brass rod or piano wire Rick... or both?
Don
#65
Posted 06 January 2021 - 03:30 PM
I never get tired of looking at nice fillets like that
Paul Wolcott
#66
Posted 06 January 2021 - 04:31 PM
Hi Don, the braces are all piano wire.
Me either Pablo!
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#67
Posted 06 January 2021 - 05:15 PM
Very nice, love that drop arm.
#68
Posted 06 January 2021 - 05:42 PM
I'd like to point out (and it's somewhat off-topic) that the US$3.00 rear tires advertised by Dart, in the December 1968 Model Racing Journal, would be over US$21.00 in 2021.
Considering the modern wing-car tires can go most of, if not all, 350 laps in a race (about 2 heats) where 1.6 second laps on a King track are regarded as minimum competitive speed, those Dart tires were most likely SBR and would have worn out extremely quickly (probably disintegrated) and would need *many* changes during the race. Back in 1969 a 400 lap total on a King track was almost achieved and yet ~350 laps are made in 2 heats with today's cars/tracks.
I think those who complain of today's prices when they see these old ads are a bit disconnected from reality and don't realize how much better the modern tire is constructed and manufactured and how the US Dollar has declined in value.
Pop Pearson (Rosecrans Raceway) had a sign behind his counter that said, "Speed costs money: how fast do you want to go?". Something to think about.
Click HERE to contact Sonic Products. The messenger feature on my Slotblog account has been disabled.
#69
Posted 06 January 2021 - 07:34 PM
TIRES, back in my second slot life I used to shred a pair every heat in g27's until I switched to the black rubber sold by sonic then alpha. those lasted an entire race although Phil has indicated they were sbr not some other rubber. could it have been that the black or carbon black additives made the difference? I loved sonic tires and gears back then.
jes gonzales
#70
Posted 09 January 2021 - 07:15 PM
After finishing the motor bracket I made up most of the chassis parts before I start soldering:
Here are all the parts for the first soldering session in the jig:
The Ungar iron is heating up............
- Tex likes this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#71
Posted 09 January 2021 - 08:19 PM
Looks nice n warm already Jig nirvana
Paul Wolcott
#72
Posted 09 January 2021 - 11:10 PM
Looks good, very sleek.
#73
Posted 10 January 2021 - 09:05 PM
With all the parts premade I could concentrate on alignment and soldering. I started with the outer rails and worked inward checking parallelism after each pair. Here's the center section with all the rails and drop arm hinge tube in place:
The "new style" front axle and plumber hinge tube were next:
And with some cleanup the center section is done in one soldering session:
The inner rails snake around a bit and fit into the bend of the axle bracket to act as a bit of a gusset:
Closeup of the "new style front end":
The drop arm is next.
- Pablo and Jesse Gonzales like this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#74
Posted 10 January 2021 - 09:36 PM
Paul Wolcott
#75
Posted 11 January 2021 - 01:38 AM
so clean Rick.