60 replies to this topic

[Cap Henry]

Something new for me, started building some drag cars. These cars have all been for my and my significant other. Feel free to ask any questions!





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[Cap Henry]

66 Nova, Mid-America Heavy Narrow Nose Stainless Back. This car had to get a split front axle as the front axle ran over top of the guide due to the short nose on the body.


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[Cap Henry]

Dom’s Charger from Fast and the Furious. ESR kit. This car is super consistent.


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[Cap Henry]

Fox Body Mustang on a DCR chassis. This was the nicest kit to build yet. One of my favorite cars.


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[sdsacr]

If you are gonna be a drag racer, this thread needs more 48p gears and resistors

[Cap Henry]

Lol you arent the first person to tell me that. Ill try them on a car here soon I have plenty to build between retro builds

[Dan Searcy]

Nice builds.

[gmpower]

Nice 66 Nova!!!

[Cap Henry]

I have another sweet one in the works 😉 lol

[Cap Henry]

1989 Taurus SHO on a WRP Chassis




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[Cap Henry]

1971 Plymouth Cuda, custom front bumper and rear wing. Mid America Brass Nose, Mid America spring steel back, Mid America Wheel Set.

Ive been testing different size outside wires, so far the .059 outside rails seem to be the most consistent cars.


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[Cap Henry]

First Wheelie Bar car I built. WRP kit, Tes, my girlfriend, did the body. I’m not a “details” guy, but I was happy with the front axle and wishbone details


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[Cap Henry]

1979 Pinto Wagon. This body sat around for years with no chassis, finally put a chassis under it.


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[Cap Henry]

1968 Dodge Dart on an all stainless Mid America kit. This was done to be the vintage version of my personal 13’ Dodge Dart. So far this is my most successful car with my first semi final appearance lol


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[Cap Henry]

A 1970 Pontiac Firebird done in Marine colors, my GF Tes is a Marine Vet so this was very special to her and was stuck on a WRAP chassis as it’s owned by a veteran!


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[Cap Henry]

New Nova I did just to build something. Scrivener Chassis, Mid-America Win Lite wheels, not sure who did the body. Car seemed super consistent, left it for my dad to try racing.


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[shadow]

Nice builds Cap

[Joe Mig]

Beautiful work cap.
This is some inspiration as I have been wanting to build a slip joint full body car chassis. I've been looking over different setups over the years and like some of those heavier nose pieces you are using like the one from Mid-America raceway.

Any preferences like does it work better with a longer body or the hinge in any specific area and the sliders further up or back?

[Eddie Fleming]

Why are most of the drag cars I see inline? 

 

I have never done drags so I don't know much.

[Cap Henry]

Joe, I honestly have never tried building one with the sliders further back, I always left them full forward. I did mess with wire sizes, my preference is .059 outside rails with the center hinge being .062. The scrivener car is all .059 though, and it seemed super consistent. Longer bodies vs short bodies dont seem to make a huge difference. My best car forever was the Dart.

[Cap Henry]

Eddie, I think to an extent its to help make room for the rear tires under the bodies. There are side winder kits though.

[Joe Mig]

It seems like you always pin it from the same location. I guess never anything behind the hinge. So you put one basically above the hinge and the other one as far as you could go forward. Thanks again for the inspiration.

[Cap Henry]

Joe, I was told if you get the back body mount too far back, the body binds the chassis up and theyll come out of the slot half track. The mid America chassis has a really nice body set up, and Ive been moving to the further back holes. I should add, my local track is 1:8 mile

[Phil Smith]

That's interesting about the body pin tube location.

[Tom Katsanis]

I have pinned mine behind the hinge but I made a front plate that goes further down on the sides allowing for it & they run fine my little Opel GT has been the most consistent at our races lately.