20 replies to this topic

[Highnoon]

I bought a bottle of the cleaner from createx, is there something generic that is cheaper and works. I have an Iwata Elcipse and use Ralph Thorne paint. Thanks.

[Tim Neja]

I always like lacquer thinner for my final cleaning not matter what paint I use.  I know Createx has their own reducers and thinners.  

[Bill from NH]

Between color changes, distilled water should work, then use a bit of the Createx for the final cleaning before you put the brush away. Windshield washer fluid ought to work too. I sprayed lacquer outdoors, which meant I didn't paint during the winter. Once I switched to acrylics, I can paint year-round if I want to in my cellar close to the furnace.

[Pablo]

Ask Ralph Thorne what he uses on his paints.

You will always get better results from a professional product designed for your intended use than a shortcut.

 

The Createx cleaner you have should work great, and I'd stick with that. I'll bet Ralph would concur.

[John Streisguth]

Createx has an "airbrush restorer" that really cleans the built-up gunk. At the end of a painting session, that's what I use, taking apart the airbrush and making sure it's spotless.. BUT!!!! make sure you flush out the airbrush well with a bit of soapy water before your next use, it will ruin any paint job you do if there are any traces left (yes, I found out the hard way)

[Noose]

Createx cleaner between colors.  IPA after all done.  If really gunked up then the stuff John noted above and a thorough washing to rid it of the stuff.  You can get large bottles of the cleaner from Amazon.

[Ralph Thorne]

I just use water for all my cleaning. Anything mentioned above will work, as will Windex or basic household cleaners. Just make sure the tip and needle are clean before you store it away.

[Jairus]

Windex here.

[DGRacer]

I’m not the greatest painter. But I read the label on the createx reducer and my health is more important than using it. I use water as a reducer and for cleaning. Then disassemble at the end and give it a good cleaning. Never tried windex , but might . Also I always use a N95 mask when painting. Interesting reading your other methods.

[Tex]

hot water out of the faucet.

 

one of the biggest tips I ever got(and it should have been obvious to me before reading it) is to make sure no dried or semi-dried paint gets poured into the bottle before spraying.... that stuff'll clog up the works every time.... VERY frustrating to have to keep stopping, unscrew the tip, clean out the debris over and over again.... if you don't let that junk get into the mix from the get-go, it's a much easier and more enjoyable experience. one thing you can do to prevent such a thing from ever happening is to not only clean the airbrush when you are finished but also clean the top of the plastic bottle the paint comes in and also clean the inside of the screw-on top.... those two areas are where the dried up "clag" forms in the first place.

[akahollywood]

I use Windex (ammonia-free) to clean between colors. After each painting session, I dis-assemble the airbrush, wash thoroughly with warm/hot warm and maybe a bit of Dawn dish soap, dry everything thoroughly, re-assemble and shoot a bit of Createx thinner/cleaner through the brush.  

[akahollywood]

I use Windex (ammonia-free) to clean between colors. After each painting session, I dis-assemble the airbrush, wash thoroughly with warm/hot warm and maybe a bit of Dawn dish soap, dry everything thoroughly, re-assemble and shoot a bit of Createx thinner/cleaner through the brush.  

[John Streisguth]

I’m not the greatest painter. But I read the label on the createx reducer and my health is more important than using it. I use water as a reducer and for cleaning. Then disassemble at the end and give it a good cleaning. Never tried windex , but might . Also I always use a N95 mask when painting. Interesting reading your other methods.

The SDS only shows ethyl alcohol, what does the label say that it's a health concern?

 

 

OOps...thats the cleaner, not the reducer

[Tim Neja]

If you're concerned about your health from painting--get a small hobby paint booth.  You can get them for under $100 on Amazon--then you'll not have to worry about paint fumes or the smell in your "Man Room"!!  That's the direction I'm going.

[John Streisguth]

I have one of them...works pretty nice, although it won't get rid of laquer smell

[YetiSRP]

<I have one of them...works pretty nice, although it won't get rid of laquer smell>

 

​Anybody have anything to add to this? I'm a fan of using lacquer. 50/50 and ready to go! There seems to be different models that use some kind of filtration system.

 

Additionally, anyone use one of these when soldering? 

 

This could be a game-changer.

[Nate Graham]

As a chemist by original training, I look at it from a perspective of "what strength solvent do you need"?

 

To explain:

water is a good diluent and solvent for the acrylics so use that first.  Note- use a cotton applicator or your fingernails to keep the little glob of dried paint off the needle tip that tends to form.

 

next up is isopropyl alcohol ( i don't use it much but it is a good solvent)

 

windex -  my next goto. I keep a small lab spray bottle full of it on the table when painting. a quick spray in the cup and wipe out with a swab or cloth. if worried about internals, spray a bowl of windex through the brush into the wastebasket next to you that has a disposable liner in it and a bunch of waste paper towels by now in your process. 

 

simple green - dilute 50:50 with water and, again, have a cheap spray bottle of it in your kit if stuff is really stuck.

 

Dawn - end of day clean out with toothbrush and dawn for dishes and warm water. disassemble and clean.

 

All that said, Steve Koepp taught me a terrific trick:  just submerge the front half of the brush in a tub of water ( large Folger's plastic container works well.) grunge out the bowl with your fingertip, activate and spray water through AND plug tip with finger to back flush brush with water. add new paint and go. very fast and efficient.  Keep all of the above as backup. garden totes are wonderful organizers. 

 

spend a few bucks on the set of airbrush wire cleaners and mini bottle brushes - available at TCP Global and other suppliers -  to get in the tight channels as needed and at end of day. 

 

I have rejuvenated several old beginner airbrushes that I thought were junk with these and a detailed internal cleaning.  

 

I built several spray booths in my shop but found I have so little overspray that I no longer use them. just cover the table with newspaper. 

[MG Brown]

Whatever you do, don't use gorilla glue.

[Leon]

What is best for cleaning the inside of Lexan Bodies before Painting

[Bill from NH]

Leon, there is no "best" product, but I like washing bodies with Dawn dish detergent.

[Dave Buchholz]

Leon, scuffing the surface on the inside helps to give the paint a better surface to grip to.
Obviously mask off the windows first.
I found three grits of scuff pads by the sand paper at Home Depot. Use the grey pad as it is the finest grit.

When I rinse, I try NOT to use anything that might leave a film on the surface