10 replies to this topic

[Revtor]

Love this chassis, seems well-made and strong. The price is right for sure. But whats the consensus on mounting screws? Just one on the bottom? Solder along the top? Do I grind out notches for putting the two side screws in?
Thanks in advance!!

Steve

[slotcarone]

You definitely should solder it on the top and one of the sides where the motor meets the pan.

[smithspeedway]

We made the back end narrow so that people could run fat rears, and stay within a 2.5" total car width. The most common application is a FK130 size can, and they just run the one screw. I actually don't use screws. I hot glue the motors in. The glue provides some vibration damping. Originally, we thought 16D's were still going to be around. To orient the holes the other way, we'd have to widen the rear. The other option is to use a separate motor bracket, screwed on.

[Revtor]

Thanks guys, I think Ill heat up the old soldering iron to lock the motor in along the top.

Looks like incorporating horizontal motor mounting screw holes could be fit into the existing design without widening the rear. Something to think about perhaps? These hawk/brute motors are pretty much standard by now, right?

Cant wait to get this built up!!

[Bill from NH]

The two horizontal mounting holes on an FK motor are threaded M2 for metric screws. The hole at the bottom is not threaded. If you use it, you'll need a self-tapping screw or a tap to thread the hole for a machine screw. If I used the chassis on a commercial track, I'd  use Mike's 2-point soldering suggestion in post #2. That's the process I've used with flexi chassis since 1998. If I was just going to run it on smaller home & club tracks, I'd try Steve's hot glue suggestion in post #3. Many 1/32 racers use hot glue for holding in their motors.

[Revtor]

Oh Bill, thanks for that, didnt even think about the bottom hole not being threaded...

I may grind on the mount a bit and get the two side screws in there, and then solder it home.

Hot glue... the semi clear, goopy rubbery stuff? Would that hold up? This is a minibrute to be run on a commercial track. .

Im good with all this diy style work, I love it in fact... but surprised that the modern entry level womp doesnt accept the entry level motor of today mounting right in with screws. Seems weird to me.

[slotcarone]

Steve I would not even bother with screws. Take it from two old timers if you solder the top and one side you will be fine and strengthen the chassis at the same time. To remove the motor you then heat the top joint and slide a razor blade in there to keep it separated and then heat the bottom/side joint.

[Revtor]

Got it. Solder itll be then.

[Ramcatlarry]

Mounting the FK is one problem SOLVED by the Eagle series of motors from MidAmerica Products. ALL four holes are in the right places and pretapped for the M2 screw (also available).  Pick your RPM needs:  18K rpm; 25K; 55K or drag motors ET and Phoenix.

[Pablo]

The hole at the bottom is not threaded. If you use it, you'll need a self-tapping screw or a tap to thread the hole for a machine screw. 

This is why I always read Bill's posts - I never knew the bottom holes on FK's weren't threaded!

I'm still learning   

 

I like the Mike Katz method here, but may I add, I'd acid pre-tin the solder points with a thin film. That way they will solder quickly - don't want to heat the mags any more than needed 

 

PS I know nothing about womps   

[Bill from NH]

I don't know why that 3rd bottom hole is there on FKs, but my guess is it's not there for motor mounting screws. FK motors weren't invented for slot car applications, they were first used for industrial uses. I' would guess a mounting bracket buried deep in an auto or something else has a pin or nub that fits in the hole to keep the motor can from rotating whenever it's powered up. It might also be a hole used in the motor's manufacturing process.