73 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

I really was impressed with a 13uo birdcage coupe car I re-furbished from the Dallas Jackson collection a while back

 

 

This one will be built from scratch with Swiss wire, new H Power 30 wire motor, under a JK factory painted Ford GT 40 MK IV and a Boogie interior

 

[Pablo]

Found a 13uo jig motor, inline bracket, Cox flag, some Classic weight choices, and an endbell bracket to secure the front end. John H. secured and strengthened the EB bushing flange with a 7/32" tube piece, so I drilled out the bracket to fit.

 

The motor bracket has a huge heavy chunk of brass up top that hangs over the motor and serves no purpose for me, so I sliced it off and squared it up. My plan is to solder the motor in right where that chunk was removed.

 

The square opening on the right lower side, I never have figured out what it's for. I'll strengthen it later. The EB stabilizer bracket will be trimmed for height and width later 

 

[Ramcatlarry]

P:  The slot in the endbell bracket is for the armature shaft to clear when changing the motor.

[Bill from NH]

I had forgotten about this chassis because it's photos were on my old computer with about 8000 others. Thanks for digging it back out    Didn't Red end up with the restored car, or was Dallas still living?

[Pablo]

Sorry, Larry, this is the one I meant

 

 

Bill, the car came from Buddy Mitchell's hands, and he still has it as far as I know.

 

Why dig out an old computer when you could have just gone here?

 

http://slotblog.net/...3uo-sports-car/

[Tom Katsanis]

Looks like a Revell bracket I could be wrong I think they usually have a piece of the bracket bent in there with a hole & it may have been for body mounts.

[Pablo]

Thanks Tom. Sounds weird - if it is a body mount thing, why only on one side? Anyway, water under the bridge - the bracket is garbage. It's probably been cherry picked and discarded many times since the 60's and I ended up with the worst one. Alignment of the bushing holes is a mile off    I could punch the holes out and install axle tubes, but I have a simpler option

 

 

My other option is an (unknown) bracket which is true and will accept 3/32 ball bearings straight up. It will require shortening both top and bottom but that's an easy fix

 

[Pablo]

Wheel options (thanks Maximo and dc-65x   )

 

[slotcarone]

Pablo that piece that you cut off of the bracket probably was to stop the motor from rotating in the bracket when just using a clip to hold it in. Also that may have been the bottom of the bracket. That problem of the axle not sitting straight has been very common on Retro brackets. Not an issue if using an axle tube but for bearings directly in the bracket it's got to be correct.

[Bill from NH]

 

 

Bill, the car came from Buddy Mitchell's hands, and he still has it as far as I know.

 

Why dig out an old computer when you could have just gone here?

 

http://slotblog.net/...3uo-sports-car/

 

You miss-read my post #4.The "digging it back out" was you posting this old chassis again in your post #1, I edited my post #4 with a statement, that has now been deleted by somebody, stating that I used your original build article to regain the forgotten by me photos & to find out that it was Buddy who got the car back, rather than Red. Amazing what one can forget in two years. 

[Pablo]

I corrected a small typo, and moved a sentence upward one click, but I didn't delete any "statement".

 

Mike, the hole on one side was 30 thou difference horizontally than the other   

[Isaac S.]

I'm a little late to the party but the motor bracket is from a 1/32 Monogram GP car and the rectangular hole is there because a body post sits there. The 13UO motor was attached by a snap ring. 

[Pablo]

Thanks Isaac. Must have been a strange mount gizmo to require that big of a chunk removed from one side of the bracket 

[dc-65x]

Alignment of the bushing holes is a mile off............... 

 

 

Pablo, you have a rare version there. It's angled to better get around the donut on a Blue King track. 

[Dave Crevie]

Must be an angle winder.

[old & gray]

Flip it over and use it to build a circle track car.

[Pablo]

All excellent advice    I feel sorry for the Monogram bracket, ruined at the factory, rejected by the masses for it's fatal flaws, teased for it's poor design, thick and heavy but weak, Axle holes punched wrong, etc. The only good thing about it is, the hole fits a gimbal bushing. I sealed the deal on mine by ruining it further attempting to correct it. It will make a good paperweight  

 

Body and interior are done, Alpha Wonder donuts are drying on the rims, piano wires are already tinned, Cox flag has been blueprinted, and motor is done. Time to make a birdcage 

[Pablo]

Top of (new) bracket sliced off even with top of (jig) motor can. Axle holes hogged out very slightly to allow 3/32 BBs. I borrowed the rear end of my GP anglewinder build (in progress) on the RGeo jig for a minute, to align and tack in a set of used dirty but functional "jig" BB's

 

  

 

Next step is to trim the bottom of the bracket accordingly based on gears, wheel OD, and motor tilt angle. Then tack the jig motor in up top 

[Pablo]

I marked my cut lines, made lots of relief cuts, then trimmed by hand. No fancy tools, just Sharpie, Xacto knife, and 409 Dremel cut wheel

 

 

Squared up with disc sander then hand sanded

 

 

Now I can play with gears, clearance, wheel OD, etc. 

[Isaac S.]

Great job, I had to do a lot of that with my sidewinder cars's brackets also, dremeling, fileing, sanding, drilling and more. 

[Pablo]

Thanks Isaac     I fiddled around with many different combinations, and settled on 13/16 rear wheels, 7/28 gears, and retro rear jig wheels designed to give .050" clearance. I can fine tune from there, but this is my starting point to enable chassis construction

 

 

15 thou shim under the front of the motor ensures the tilted motor will never hang below the chassis

 

 

Jig motor tack soldered in top and bottom 

 

 

 

.047 "U" brace

 

[Pablo]

Motor box on the jig, centered and aligned. I decided to make my own front EB bushing flange stabilizer, so the gizmo will go back to the drawers of bracket horrors for another day

 

 

If anybody wants to earmark this car as yours, let me know. I can make it any way you want. Otherwise, the front wheels are going to be Tamiya 19MM OD O-Rings on 2mm axle. Lower main rails will be .047, upper birdcage main rails .039 

[Pablo]

The Tamiya wheels, sans O-rings, mike at .700. With O-rings, .738

They look like little slivers of black. Not the "look" I want

 

 

I tried several different types of bigger O-rings, and a .077 thick makes them mike at .770" OD. So it shall be. Now I can plan the height of a dummy front 2mm axle .... and plan some rails.

 

I only have one .077 so it's off to the local hardware store tomorrow. Interesting, out of a whole small container of O-rings, the only size I lack is .077     So I plan to buy a bunch if I find some 

[SpeedyNH]

i've got a couple of those harbor freight assortments, one english and one metric. they've bailed me out many times. 

[Pablo]

Hardware store had just the right one. .077 thick and slightly larger OD.

Right side is stock, producing .738 OD

Left side fills up the groove better and mikes at .790 OD