21 replies to this topic

[Isaac S.]

First has a Ferret chassis with Champion motor. The motor originally had the purple dyed endbell and Grp. 12 unbalanced armature but I used an orange picker endbell and new in package Phaze 3 Grp. 20 armature.  I thought a 27 wire motor would be the best powerplant. Used my strongest ARCO's with thicker black oxide coated shim for some torque as it is pretty heavy.

 

Second is a scratch build with a Dyna Rewind 16D and rare Team Nutley drop arm. Has Associated wheels front and rear with original Checkpoint rubber on the back. Car seems to have lots of RPM's. Super cool looking car.

 

[Martin]

 

[Pablo]

Very nice       

[dc-65x]

Nice cars Isaac. Love that "Unicorn" Team Nutley drop arm too.

[Isaac S.]

Thanks everyone, I do really like that drop arm. 

[Allan Feldman]

Isaac what do you use to clean the tyres?

Regards Allan

[Isaac S.]

Put a dummy axle in the Dremel, threw on the wheels got to good rubber with 120 grit sandpaper. I find this gives me the best traction but for a little cleaner look go for a 200 or 300 grit.

[Slot Car Rod]

Isaac, thanks for identifying the motor in the Ferrari.  I have one like it and never knew what brand it was.

[Isaac S.]

If it has white, yellow or gray epoxy it is most likely a Dyna Rewind. It will also have the cylindrical balancing marks. Mine has a sticker though also. Here is a picture of it before, which shows the sticker. Some Dyna Rewind 16D's will also have yellow paint. Also, if the armature in yours has thinner lamination's and a welded comm it should be the Jerry Brady branded motor. 

 

 

All that solder had to be cleaned up which was quite a job. 

[Bill from NH]

Solder wick would be the way to remove that access solder. If you run out of solder wick, used braid dipped in acid flux works too.

[Isaac S.]

It took like a yard of solder wick (brushed with acid flux) lots of elbow grease and and some wire brush action. 

[Bill from NH]

Someone wanted to make sure it never came apart on you.  Isaac, have you ever seen the soldering on a new, untouched Ferret, Cobra, or Phaze III brass  chassis before? It looks like work done by a blind lady in the dark! The plated brass rod jail door chassis they sold looked better because they were assembled by AYK in Japan.

[Isaac S.]

Oh, yes. The Cobra and Phaze 3 chassis are very bad, with some cleaning up they can look and run very well. 

[Gene/ZR1]

If it has white, yellow or gray epoxy it is most likely a Dyna Rewind. It will also have the cylindrical balancing marks. Mine has a sticker though also. Here is a picture of it before, which shows the sticker. Some Dyna Rewind 16D's will also have yellow paint. Also, if the armature in yours has thinner lamination's and a welded comm it should be the Jerry Brady branded motor. 

 

IMG_0044.JPG

 

All that solder had to be cleaned up which was quite a job. 

 

Don't forget to add "Clear, Black and Green" to your epoxy list.

[old & gray]

If it has white, yellow or gray epoxy it is most likely a Dyna Rewind. It will also have the cylindrical balancing marks. 

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to add "Clear, Black and Green" to your epoxy list.

 

You can also add red to your color list. I have a 1960's arm I bought directly from Dyna Rewind with the full color epoxy dip.

[Bill from NH]

Never had any Dyna Rewind products, but I thought their ads offering RTR cars for retail price, plus a buck and they included a rewound & balanced arm, was a great deal. We had Howkill rewinding arms & building motors in the greater Boston area, so some New England raceways never brought Midwest arms from the likes of Certus & Dyna Rewind into this area. 

[old & gray]

Never had any Dyna Rewind products, but I thought their ads offering RTR cars for retail price, plus a buck and they included a rewound & balanced arm, was a great deal. We had Howkill rewinding arms & building motors in the greater Boston area, so some New England raceways never brought Midwest arms from the likes of Certus & Dyna Rewind into this area. 

 

I remember the Howkill name in Connecticut but the motors were scare as hen 's teeth. Dyna had a short lived offer; send a blank arm and a small check and they would wind to your spec. I had a burned out 16D, I stripped the wire sent it in and got a finished arm back.  

[Bill from NH]

Howkills were largely Classic motors sprayed a light metallic blue with the bushing end of the can sprayed gold. I saw lots of them in Maine during 1967-69, primarily 36D & 26D. Some were singles, but the also wound some strange doubles & triples. They were fast in the day, but often smoked.

[Isaac S.]

When I went over my cars after testing I noticed that the motor in the Ferrett chassis was loose. Knowing that the motor had to be soldered in, I went to work on it. I first took the motor off and soldered the oilite plate onto the motor mount. Then put the motor in, adjusted gear mesh and put a traditional brace in. Soldered to motor with normal 4% silver solder and soldered to frame with 60/40. I then put a small brass rod between the motor and frame and silver soldered that together.  Thanks for the motor tinning tip DC-65x, it helped. 

 

[Isaac S.]

Also, the Indiana humidity is causing my chassis to gain patina very quickly. Really shows on this car. 

[Pablo]

Good job, Grasshopper 

[John Luongo]

nice save, issac! very interesting chassis. wax on, wax off.