95 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Thank's Larry.

I did see this the other day, and maybe it did influence my decision to go ahead and add flares.  When I saw the video you posted I did think the flares where a bit over the top.

I made mine a milder and not (stuck on) like the Brock car.  I wonder if Peter Brock had anything to do with those flares, did it say in the video?  

[Larry Horner]

The actual Pete Brock revision car made by Superformance doesn't have the flares so I think this is something the owner did. And I agree that a little bit of flare would be a good thing but these are both over the top and I think a bit tacky. But I must say the car SOUNDS fantastic!

[Martin]

Could not help thinking what Pete would say, shaking his head as he reviewed the new wind tunnel numbers.

[Martin]

Now in the paint shop to help identify surface problems. Most of this primer will be sanded off with 600, I see now some spot putty will be needed in a couple of areas too. 

Looking forward to seeing some color on this body.

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[Rotorranch]

Making progress on the Cobra GT's
Doing a number on the series 1 body. I have added flares front and rear. Raised the body line to give more room for the exhaust, also re-cut the door lines so it is more like the series 2.
 
I do need help with the wheel inserts. I would love to find wheels inserts that look like this.
Any body seen these available? Thanks for any help.

 

I'm thinking I bought some somewhere... I don't remember where.

 

Can you use Cox Ford GT wheels? Or use the Cox wheels to cast some resin inserts?

 

Rotor

[Martin]

Jeff, I did consider the Cox Ford GT wheels.  But stay tuned a friend and I are working on a wheel insert that is way closer.

 

Sanded and another coat of primer, getting closer to color.

 

Cutting the small air scoop on top of the left side front fender was fun, but I think it will make the body less toy like.

 

Now I have to think about making a front windshield.  Its kind of flat, maybe I can form over a wood buck and a little heat?

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[Rotorranch]

http://www.pattospla...parts/wi017.JPG

[Larry Horner]

The body is looking awesome Martin ... the much more subtle flared fenders came out great!

[Martin]

Thanks Larry, I wanted flares that looked like a fabricator could have beaten them out with a hammer and dolly.

 

Put the last coat of primer on today ( I hope ) and I will be ready for color.

 

Question for all you painters out there.

 

I am using Tamiya primer and putty. I have a Duli-Color color I like, do you see any problems with that combination?

 

Appreciate any advice on this subject.

 

....and thanks too Jeff for the link.Not sure they are the quality I am looking for, being vac-u-formed ?

 Larry and I have been collaborating on some 3D printed wheel inserts. When we have a final model done I am sure Larry will be happy to post a link to his Shapeways store. Thanks Again Larry.

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[MattD]

You are a  fabricator, this was probably easy for you.      You have great patience and attention to detail.  It shows in all your work.   Big cars or small cars!

 

I'm not sure about the auto touch up paint, but lacquer over lacquer should be fine.   I think it may be slightly different than the plain colors that come in the big cans.

 

I use big cans of Duplicolor red, black, and white generic lacquer from the auto parts stores with no issues on vac bodies or hard bodies.  I also use Duplicolor lacquer primer that is about the same as the Tamiya lacquer primer, although it may not atomize as small.

[Martin]

Thanks Matt for the compliments,

 

That gives me hope that the different brand paints will work together. I will try a test sample first to be safe.

 

I may switch to Duplicolor primer too for up-coming projects. The Tamiya is great but at $15 dollars a can gets a bit much.

[MattD]

Martin I posted wrong info about the paints I use.   I should have checked before I posted.   The generic lacquer i use is Rustoleum and comes from Autozone.    The Candy finishes I use are Duplicolor metal cast, a true candy apple lacquer., also good for tinted windows.   The primer is duplicolor.    These big cans have  as much paint as 4-5 cars of the small hobby paints.

[Alan Dodson]

Martin, the rear wheels from the AMT 1963 Agajanian Watson Indy roadster look to be an exact match to the Cobra wheels. It may be more trouble to adapt them than to print new ones, but they may make a good template to follow.

[Martin]

You are correct Alan ,same style, but I do not have that kit. So I do not know the o.d. on those wheels in that 1/25 kit.?

 

Thanks again Matt, for the paint info.

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[MattD]

These are from a kit I have.  First pic shows total diameter including the flange,   Next pic shows the total thickness   3rd pic shows the flange that remains outside the wheel opening.    Last pic is the rear insert.    I've used these on Protrac rims and have sanded off the flange until the insert sets totally in the rim.

[Martin]

They look perfect Matt, what kit did they come out of ?

[MattD]

Martin, they are from the old AMT Willard Battery Watson Roadster.      I can loan the rears or full set if you want to make a mold.   I will need them back to put in the kit, but you can borrow them.   There are only two rears in the kit.   Watch ebay and sometimes you can find a falling apart old  built .model for cheap.

 

I did use a set on this project.   

 

[Martin]

Thanks Matt, looking at the size again I think there are a too big for the K&B wheels I am using.

 

Thanks to Larry we now have 3D inserts we can order from Shapways. Along with some Dynamic hard to find parts.

 

Check out the link below.

 

https://www.shapeway...s-slot-car-shop

[Martin]

O.K. I am not ready for paint just yet.  I realized I did not have the small slots for the hood release and also looking at the real car vs the slot car I am thinking the scoops behind the side windows need to be clear, not solid.

So now I have to cut those out too, then make a clear scoop to fit.

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[Martin]

Inserts painted and ready to insert into rims.

 

Slots cut for hood release catch.

 

Still waffling over whether it is worth the extra effort to make a clear scoop behind the door window? Need a push.

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[Larry Horner]

Regarding the scoops, my girlfriend Ruby has an expression I like: "Perfect is the enemy of done." But it doesn't really apply with regards to model making in which the journey itself is 90% of the purpose.

[John Luongo]

Inserts painted and ready to insert into rims.

 

Slots cut for hood release catch.

 

Still waffling over whether it is worth the extra effort to make a clear scoop behind the door window? Need a push.

martin, superb work on a timeless classic body. i dont remember the scoop being painted in photos i have seen. unless it was the dave mac donald daytona car?

[Rotorranch]

I just found my Dad's slot car box. This is one he built in about 1966. Never been run. The chassis is still in the blister tray. I'll get that next time.

 

Rotor

 

 

 

 

[MattD]

Martin, never let perfect stand in the way of doing good!

[Martin]

Larry, I could have been DONE a while ago, but the journey is as you say 90%.

 

Matt, I go into any project with the goal of doing the best job I can, but I always know its a long way from perfect. Just good enough to make me happy.

 

John, yes the window scoops were always clear on the real car. The question was and is, is it worth recreating that detail?

 

Jeff, check out those flares your Dad did. Look forward to seeing you finish that one.    Too bad the window get stress cracked on a lot of this model, that's why I cut mine out.

 

Thanks to all for the advice and opinions