28 replies to this topic

[Isaac S.]

Here are some photos from Mark Onofri. The first looks like an American Line chassis with the obligatory Cox NASCAR 36D. Second looks like a Champion Grp. 22 possibly? Mark can fill you in on the rest. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Isaac. At first I thought it was a 36d but it's actually a 26 d. It has all the Hallmarks of a r e h. Check out the funky hinge system on the guide flag! The second one, was listed as a Parma. It was shiny so I bought it(😂). It look like a transitional chassis between an 888 and a brass car. It has very little hinge movement, and no signs of wear. No gaul marks from motor screws. No signs of solder on the motor bracket. Check out that funky plastic front axle! Anyone have any ideas?

[Bill from NH]

The 2nd chassis is made with Parma brass parts, but I don't think Parma  built it. It's sombody's scratchbuilt.. That front axle is Champion/s Arco-lite. Available in both 1/8 & 3/32 diameters, both like to eat brass tubing. They were used for awhile, but never were very popular. From your description, it doesn't sound like it ever had a motor in it. From the photo, it looks like it was made for C-cans.

 

That first chassis is definitely one of REHCO's pieces of art. They hired  a Baltimore area chassis builder to build them some chassis using parts they bought out from closed companies. There never was a Cox NASCAR 26D. Cox never had any 26D. As far as I know, there were two sizes of NASCAR motors,, the large (36D) & a smaller (16D) size. I never owned any of the Cox NASCAR motors.

 

Mark, in the future, it could be helpful to post both topside & bottomside photos of a chassis, particularly something scratchbuilt.

[Mark Onofri]

I forgot, Cox's version of the 36D NASCAR motor is definitely what's in that chassis

[Mark Onofri]

I compared it to a strombecker Hemi (with variable timing), in comparison, it looked like a 26d. Bill, not to argue the point, as I respect your opinion, it seems like an awful lot of expense Chrome plate a scratch built chassis to the degree that this is done. Unless, he knew this guy, that new a guy, that did chrome plating.( I had to say that).

[Isaac S.]

The first could be REHCO, as far as I know American line and R.E.H. are associated. I could very well be wrong. 

 

Sorry to disagree Bill, but no scratchbuilder would nickel plate a chassis. The only companies I know who who have chrome or nickel plated a chassis are Cox, Champion, Mura, Riggen and AYK. Here are some pics of the Champion chassis I was thinking of. First is from a scan DC-65x did of a 70's Champion catalog (look at #295). Next is a very clear PDL photo. 

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Mark, chrome plating was mostly done on chassis built in Japan for sale in the US market, All the plated Champion chassis came from Japan. That 2nd chassis of yours was made  using raw brass parts, they weren't ever plated. Parma, Camen, Champion, Neat Things, GRP & many others all sold raw brass chassis parts. Most of these raw parts were made in the US. In the day, I personally hated working on plated chassis because not all the platings could be soldered to, like nickel, & had to be removed first.

 

 

Isaac, American Line is a house name label for REHCO. They have several others they also use. Those five Champion chassis you show above were all made in Japan by AYK. Yes, thus they are plated. Mark's 2nd chassis does not appear to me to be plated, but the photo isn't very clear with the Cuc or whatever body on it. Better photos of both the top & bottom of the chassis, without the body, would be needed to comment further.

[Isaac S.]

Underside, I'm pretty sure it is Champion. 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

Champion number #295 in the catalog looks damn close. Bill, yeah I should have taken the Top Shot without the body. I just love that body. When I saw this chassis, I figured, this is a perfect match (imo). Now, I'd like to match a period correct motor to the chassis.

[Mark Onofri]

Upon further review, I believe the chassis I guest was a REH" Bears more than a similar resemblance to the chassis in the lower right corner of Isaac's post. Take a close look at the front end even though the photos a little grainy.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, if you carefully check your chassis in the first photos, it has a guide tab (plate) but no drop arm.  The Champion #297 in Isaac's post has half a drop arm soldered in. The thin line going across that chassis is actually the back edge of that half drop arm. I've seen several other chassis like yours on eBay & nobody has ever called them anything but a REH. The two are not the same chassis, even the main rails on each are built differently.

 

I was once going to build a chassis like yours REH because it doesn't require any commercially made chassis parts. I never did because the first time it hits something, it'll go home in a paper bag.

[Isaac S.]

I still think it was made by REH. That Champion chassis wasn't made for a 36D (or a 26D) and doesn't even have a mounting plate. 

[Mark Onofri]

Bill, pm me your optometrists name!(lol). Damn,either you have 1,000,000×zoom or,damn good eyes. Isaac, when you have 20,000 obsolete motors & have to make payroll, they FIT!

[Mark Onofri]

Just read a DC somthing thread on a similar resto. Now where did I put that champion g-27 motor,HMmmmm? Back to the 🍷

[Bill from NH]

Mark, I go to an ophthalmologist. ! got new bifocals in the spring. I do have mini-cataracts that are going to need some attention..

[Mark Onofri]

Threw a body on it & took it to the track. 16 36 gear's, 1 1/16" tyres. That guide flag setup is basackwards! It'll look good on the shelf. With a new body.

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[Mark Onofri]

Had to lose the front tyres for it to (barely)make contact. Couldn't get a lap time. I would say,ZzzzzzzZzzzzzz.(snoring very loudly)

[Bill from NH]

Try smaller dia. fronts?

[Isaac S.]

No, the fronts are original and should work fine, I would try smaller diameter rears, something around 7/8" A small trim and the ones originally on it would work well. Also, if it's going so slow, check the motor. Don't give up on it yet, it should run nicely. I might also ask if the front axle turns well and if that was the problem. 

[Bill from NH]

I'm no sure those bouncy hinged up & down fronts actually work.

[Mark Onofri]

Some things that bounce are good ! This is not one of them. If they front weeles go up, so will the guide flag. Like in a turn! I'll post a picture later. Isaac, I forgot to radius the brushes,duh.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, look at your 2nd photo in post #1. When the front axle tube hinges upward, the guide tongue plate tilts down at the front. You want a guide flag to tilt slightly upwards a few degrees, not down.

 

The hinged fronts would probably work if you isolated their movement from the guide tongue. Do you recall the slotted 3/32" front uprights on some of the 4.5" flexi chassis?. Those slots would give the same up & down movement as your hinge. But their movement was isolated from the guide.

 

Brushes will radius themselves after running them awhile. 

[Isaac S.]

Oh, are you running the Rehco car or the Champion? The Rehco does have some peculiar things that could slow it down. The large rears also make sense then.

[Mark Onofri]

The Rehco. I'll try Bigger fronts tomorrow night & 2or3 # of lead. Maby radius the brushes.

[Mark Onofri]

Tried the REH with 13/16 & 7/8 & 1 g on the left side pan. I couldn't get it on the oval so I ran it on the blue king. Power slide here we go! What a blast! Too bad I didn't have seven other people racing with me. Just got some 42 tooth spur gears and switch to 11 tooth pinion. Hopefully I will try it tonight on the King again.