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Handling 101


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#1 mark1

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:27 PM

Given the choice between the car riding on the tires, or the front  "ears" of the chassis, which do you prefer? What are pros and cons of each?


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#2 swodem

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:28 PM

What chassis?


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#3 mark1

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:39 PM

JK 4-1/2 is the one I'm setting up now. Will be setting up a Mossetti Defender 4" three-piece next. I'm hoping to get some information out there for other racers, as well.


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#4 swodem

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:42 PM

On the chassis ears every time
Don’t even run front wheels if your rules permit it, just use the stickers.
There is no comparison.


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#5 Tim Neja

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 08:04 PM

Having the "ears" on the ground is the LOWEST possible CG.  So it's a given that is the best possible setup.


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She's real fine, my 409!!!

#6 Pablo

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 09:25 PM

I put front wheels on all my vintage cars. If you set them up to help, not hinder, the car they can be nice.

 

On stamped steel racing chassis where the rules mandate them, I spend many hours finding ways to make them pass tech then stay out of the way. Where the rules don't mandate them, if you want to finish last, use front wheels.

 

If you make car noises while driving slot cars, and like to pretend it's a 1/1 car, by all means use the biggest wheels you can find.

 

Those are just my opinions. Some of the older stamped steel chassis may benefit from O-Ring fronts rolling before the front ears touch. Once JK started making very thin, light steel chassis with lots of flex, nobody uses fronts any more. Unless the track owner mandates them


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Paul Wolcott


#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 09:57 PM

Parma's Flexi-Kar & Flexi 2 chassis came without front wings, therefore, they ran better with fronts. Just ask Chicky. :laugh2:  Parma sold accessory wings that could be used with both chassis, but they were heavy. & seldom used.


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#8 Bill Seitz

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Posted 16 July 2021 - 07:13 PM

Eons ago, I thought front wheels made slot cars work better. Since then I've found that front wheels are actually an impediment. In almost all cases where they can touch the track, they will make the chassis understeer or push. I have only had one chassis with a very short guide lead where this was not the case. O-ring fronts are typically less problematic than wider varieties.

 

As I recall from teching Flexis in the early 90s, the racers had the O-ring front wheels bent up to the point that the chassis had to be rocked over to the side almost to the point of the frame touching the track for the wheels to touch ala wing car. In reality, the front wheels would never touch the track. No one ever used the add-on wings - too much weight.



#9 Nonfractal

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Posted 19 July 2021 - 12:11 AM

For 1/32 hardbody cars, there is no simple yes/no answer.
The height of the front axle depends (primarily) on the centre of gravity of the car.

If you can get your CofG low enough by using lightweight components (body, interior) heavier chassis (or lead ballast) and get the rear wheels wide enough, the front axle and wheels become irrelevant to the handling of the car. Allowing the front tyres to touch and roll simply slows the car down.

However, on cars with a higher CofG and/or narrow width (typically driven by the models being raced and their associated rule restrictions) the front wheels can act as outriggers, preventing the car from tipping and helping stave off "roll deslot".
Some run the front wheels touching the track at all times, others run a very small gap so that the wheels only touch once the car begins to roll.

However, the grip of the front tyres adds nothing to the cornering of the car.
Many use special "zero grip" front tyres. Others coat the tyres with Cyano glue, nail polish or some other hard finish.


Alan
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#10 John Luongo

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Posted 19 July 2021 - 04:34 AM

in some classes, the rule may require front wheels to touch and roll. in those cases, i used to apply clear nail polish to the sidewalls of the front tires. this had a limited effect of stiffening the front tires, sort of like increasing your tire pressure on a 1/1 car. on ovals, sometimes i would use this method only on the right front tire. best regards



#11 Mark Onofri

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Posted 17 September 2022 - 05:06 PM

I did some experimentation in 05 trying to emulate a mossetti slotted front axle setup on a rastro flex. The only way I can describe it accurately is to compare it to Olympic pole vaulting. Suddenly, with out warning, score cards were held up rating the high and distance it would fly.
Not having front wheels is a difficult concept to accept for people who started in scale racing, myself included.
At the first Speedies Fast Lane ,Tim Wiggins enlightened me to gluing thin rectangular plastic at the far ends of the front wings. Granted, this was on a JK 1/32 chassis. You know, the one that was Lazer cut?. Amazing results.

#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 September 2022 - 05:56 PM

Some will use Lexan there cut with a paper punch. Others use a center punch on the topside of the wing to form a divot on the underside. Divots don't wear out or fall off, but be careful making them, they're more permanent.


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#13 team burrito

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Posted 18 September 2022 - 04:49 PM

always check the front clearance on the track - it should be touching the surface or close to it. there should be a light coating of scum on the ears - anymore than that & it's dragging. front wheels are useless & have been replaced with stickers.


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#14 Mark Onofri

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 05:23 PM

What about the driver touching the ground? Or,is close to it good enough?🤔

#15 Mark Onofri

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 05:24 PM

Billnh, do you add a stroke for a divot?🤔

#16 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 06:45 PM

Not a golfer. I told my friends who are, golf was about as much fun as throwing dried cow plops around a pasture.


Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 





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