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Botched lacquer paint jobs


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#26 Mark Onofri

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 06:48 PM

Note the public service message at the bottom of the second page: don't use dope.




#27 Mark Onofri

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 07:24 PM

I forgot to thank you Isaac, thank you for posting the pictures.

#28 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 07:35 PM

I used dope on wood & tissue paper covered airplanes. The stuff smelled like an extra-strong banana, but was cheap & worked well with these two materials.  :)

 

Note than public service message says don't use dope & lacquer. I have had a 1/32 Dubro Porsche 917 to paint from the early 70's. Now I know if I ever paint it, not to use dopes (if it's still sold) or lacquer ( it's probably butyrate), In fairness.to lacquer, I only airbrushed solvent-based paints starting in 1970 until I switched to acrylics in 2005. I never had any problems with them, other than their smell & the extra time cleanup took.


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#29 Mark Onofri

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 10:47 PM

😂 no you can't buy dope to make model airplanes with anymore,(I tried) I won't even get into legal marijuana. I hope those two sheets save some body's from becoming toast! I've posted in another thread, removing acrylics is easy, kind of. However, I was trying to focus( for longer than 30 seconds) on removing lacquer & and enamels from bodies regardless of what type of plastic they are made of. If they still make it, I'm going to try some good old-fashioned Dupont cutting compound. Hopefully tomorrow. I will keep you posted.

#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 06:29 AM

Mark, a Google search  on "airplane dope" lists a number of manufacturers, including Sig, that sell dope. The composition today may be entirely different than it was when I was a kid. I painted (silver) & lettered (red) my parent's large rural mailbox 60 yrs. ago. I'm wondering if I used dope for that? The first night after painting & remounting it, it was stolen off the post. It was found 6 or 8 months later at the town dump.


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#31 Martin

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 09:31 AM

Bill, was it returned to its rightful post?  


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#32 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 02:17 PM

No! When found, it had been damaged, but we had already replaced it with a new, smaller box. 


Bill Fernald
 
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#33 Mark Onofri

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 06:03 PM

I was going by the word of one of the few local hobby shops remaining. Whatever it was I needed it for, I do not recall. At the time I had a flip phone. I really have no use for it now so I haven't pursued the search.

#34 Mark Onofri

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 06:07 PM

BillNH,was the mailbox vacuform lexion,byutel or, hard plastic?

#35 Isaac S.

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 06:17 PM

Mark, Gasoline works well removing paint on static models. It might be worth trying. 


Isaac Santonastaso

#36 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 08:09 PM

BillNH,was the mailbox vacuform lexion,byutel or, hard plastic?

 

Mark, it was steel. I got small bottles of paint at the local "Friendship Store", where I also bought the airplane dope & some 1/43 scale Revell Ford truck kits. That raised my question what I actually used for paint, This would have been about 1960,


Bill Fernald
 
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#37 John Luongo

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Posted 29 July 2021 - 08:24 PM

as we all know, mail boxes can be subject to a beating. years ago i made up a new mail box with a 1/8 steel liner for protection against base ball bats. the "post" was a 4ft v12 diesel crankshaft bolted to a 2ft flywheel, set in a 1ft by 3ft square cement slab. a little unique. every now and then i would find car and truck bumper parts from attempts to knock it over.


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#38 Mark Onofri

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Posted 01 August 2021 - 07:30 PM

Nothing like a little mailbox baseball huh? Isaac I don't think I'd use gasoline on any form of plastic. Hopefully Isaac, you will post this next photo if, for nothing else, just to confuse people a little more.
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#39 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 August 2021 - 09:01 PM

Mark, have you tried any of the commercial paint removers? They might work, then they might not too, Go to a paint store & see what they sell. Home centers may have them too.


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#40 Mark Onofri

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 01:16 PM

Yes bill I did try one, Jasco green. On the thicker black vacuum-formed Interiors, it was okay. On a red Fox body it dissolved it. Acetone, caused numerous stress cracks, and dissolved enough of the plastic to where it was unusable. With acrylic paint, if you thin them with water, you can also remove them with water. This is regardless of how long it's been applied. I've Posted in another thread that acrylic can be removed with rubbing alcohol(sparingly) and a cotton ball and or Q-Tip. This also works for highlighting markers. I'm going to go to the local automotive paint store and pick up a selection of rubbing compound, cutting compounds this week. My initial test was with Harbor Freight Brown Polishing Compound and, a small cloth wheel on a motor tool. The results of this, proved to be very promising. And I believe with the right compound should be fast and effective.

#41 Rotorranch

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 01:53 PM

This is a Cox hard body I just stripped with Easy-Off heavy duty oven cleaner. Several coats of brush painted probably enamel. 3 days in a Tupperware container and a rinse and scrub with scotchbrite and it's nearly ready to paint.

 

I've used the Easy-Off on model trains, auto parts. But I have yet to try it on a clear body.

 

Rotor

 

 

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#42 James Wendel

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 02:09 PM

I race hardbodies exclusively, so different plastic and different paint, but I have had good success with "Super Clean" or "Purple Power".  These are grease-cutting cleaners, typically sold in gallon plastic jugs.  I believe the active agent is caustic, so use with care and test on a "throwaway" body.

 

Immerse the body and let it soak for a couple of hours, or ever overnight.  Remove, rinse, attack stubborn spots with your favorite toothbrush..  Repeat if necessary.


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You can't always get what you want...

#43 Mark Onofri

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 02:37 PM

Rotor, I have use oven cleaner on Chrome plated styrene static model parts. I imagine on enamel paint, it is probably faster and easier than what I'm suggesting. You can usually tell if it's enamel by a shine on the inside. I have yet to see an acrylic, or lacquer that does the same. Short of using a mass spectrometer to test to see if it's enamel, I would not suggest eating any of the chips. I'm going to try that right now.
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#44 James Wendel

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 02:43 PM

"Chrome plating" on plastic comes off easily with ammonia.  A soak in some Windex will do the trick.


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You can't always get what you want...

#45 Mark Onofri

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 02:51 PM

Tasty yes, effective no.

#46 Mark Onofri

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 02:55 PM

Thanks JW, I'll try that.Rotor, as far as oven cleaner, it didn't even faze the lacquer. Which Leeds me to believe that it might have been enamel that you where stripping . PS: it wasn't the paint chips that were tasty, it's what was in the oven.

#47 Mark Onofri

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 07:30 PM

Wow, and all along I thought that (the oven) was just for baking magnets. I think I'll stick my head in there one more time.

#48 James Wendel

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 07:37 PM

I think oven cleaner is also caustic (like Super-Clean), so if it didn't touch the lacquer, chances are the Super-Clean won't either.


You can't always get what you want...

#49 Isaac S.

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 07:01 AM

Pactra page from Mark.

 

20210801_202342.jpg


Isaac Santonastaso

#50 Mark Onofri

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 07:51 AM

Bill, I thought I would just confuse things a little bit more. Evidently, it depends on the manufacturer what type of paint they like. I would imagine if you make lacquer paint you would want people to use your lacquer paint on your bodies. Or , the remote possibility it's a different kind of plastic. Like I've said before, slot cars are not an exact science like brain surgery.





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