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Tonyp's mid-1968 Eastern winning chassis


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 04:33 PM

I was looking for a 1968 anglewinder to build and this tonyp how-to article in Car Model Magazine caught my attention:

 

CM 10-68 pg (1).jpg

 

CM 10-68 pg (2).jpg

 

Steve Okeefe has the article scanned and posted on Slotblog.

 

Here's a link to it:

 

Team Nutley's Eastern Winning Chassis

 

A similar tonyp chassis driven by Team Nutley's Wayne Williams came in second at the June 15, 1968 New York ARCO. That race was covered in a really good issue of Model Car Journal with lots of pictures.

 

I'm posting all 8 pages of it here (click on the picture to enlarge):

 

MCJ V1N15 p1_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p2_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p3_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p4_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p5_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p6_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p7_small.jpg

 

MCJ V1N15 p8_small.jpg

 

Time to start building........ :)


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#2 dc-65x

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 05:42 PM

I won't be building an exact replica of Tony's chassis but rather an "inspired by" version.

 

It will (hopefully!) look very much like his super cool chassis. But I'll be doing some things differently based on what's fun for me starting with the motor box. Tony used a clever and much easier to make 2-piece motor box design which I really like. Why, because I use yards of piano wire before I finally get a 1-piece motor box made correctly.

 

Lucky for me, Steve Okeefe is a master at making them and sent me some to use.

 

Here is a link to how he makes them:

 

Emott Style Motor Box

 

I made up an axle tube to use with one of Steve's motor boxes:

 

Matich chassis (5).JPG

 

As Steve points out in his how-to article it's important to have the outer corner of the motor box bumped up against the outer most frame rail. Based on the size and angle of the motor box the outer frame rail width is determined. They should blend in nicely with both sides of the motor box (which you'll see when I start laying in the main rails):

 

Matich chassis (7).JPG

 

So with the axle tube soldered to the motor box uprights I made some simple L-braces for the endbell side...........

 

Matich chassis (8).JPG

 

................and the can side:

 

Matich chassis (9).JPG

 

Finished:

 

Matich chassis (10).JPG

 

Matich chassis (11).JPG

 

Laying in the main rails is next.


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#3 Isaac S.

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 07:07 PM

Very similar to the Tanaka side-saddle sidewinder that was a also in a how-to in Car Model. Will be a fun and cool build. 


Isaac Santonastaso

#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 08:15 PM

Keith built his Car Model magazine chassis using a Champion Align-O-Jig. You have one of those Isaac? Rick Moore, of FL, is the expert on using these chassis jigs.


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#5 Isaac S.

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 09:31 PM

Yes, tried to use it but haven't got the hang of it yet. I'll mess with it some more another day. 


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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 July 2021 - 10:50 PM

I've had one  50+ years & never got the complete hang of it yet either. :laugh2:  Someday, I'll mess with it again to get it more square using some Dubro set crew collars. I still have the original paper instruction sheets, if you'd like a copy, email me your address.  wffernald@aol.com   


Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#7 dc-65x

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Posted 24 July 2021 - 01:23 PM

OK.........well..........moving right along with this build, I'm starting with the outer rails rather than the inner rails first.

 

With this particular angle and width motor box my outer main rails needed to be 1 9/16" wide to flow smoothly along the sides of the motor box:

 

Matich chassis (4).JPG

 

The goal is to have the bend in the main rails aligned with the corners of the motor box for a clean look:

 

Matich chassis (12).JPG

 

I made the rails run the full length of the motor box to beef it up:

 

Matich chassis (13).JPG

 

The inner rails are added, spaced for a 3/4" drop arm and the front axle tube and uprights are jigged up:

 

Matich chassis (14).JPG

 

It's starting to look like a chassis:

 

Matich chassis (15).JPG

 

2 more brass rails per side are next...........


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 24 July 2021 - 02:58 PM

Beauty  :sun_bespectacled:


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#9 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 July 2021 - 07:39 PM

Didn't know I was in the middle of your thread Rick. Steve built a left-side drive version of this chassis about 10 yrs. ago so he could run a contemporary t6D motor. He said the chassis ran beautifully at his local raceway. He had his chassis posted online at one time, but I don't know if it still is. It may have been included when his forum moved to Slotblog.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 July 2021 - 08:44 PM

Here is Steve's build  from The Independent Scratchbuilder forum.

 

 

 

NH Tony P 68.jpg


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#11 dc-65x

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 10:16 AM

The last frame rails are both brass, Tonyp put a cool little bend in the third rail. It looks trick and provides more surface area to solder to:

 

Matich chassis (16).JPG

 

Matich chassis (20).JPG

 

Here's the setup the Rick's Jig allowed to align and center up the drop arm hinge tubes:

 

Matich chassis (17).JPG

 

Here's where the chassis is so far:

 

Matich chassis (18).JPG

 

Matich chassis (21).JPG

 

The center section is now ready for the motor bracket and the braces between the main rails and motor box like Tonyp used.


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#12 Larry Horner

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 05:18 PM

Lovely work as usual Rick! Obviously its been around for awhile but this design for supporting the front axle tube is new to me and I like its simplicity.



#13 Dave Buchholz

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 06:00 PM

I was a junior at Williamsville High School, when this race happened in 1968. Grell's Raceway was my home track. Still have my original pit box, with the Grell's sticker on it I was in the crowd with a friend,  watching this race.  The Red track had a very bumpy main staight, and was somewhat of torture for a particular seventeen year old making a $1.00 an hour at a nearby Grocery store. at the time. I remember calling in sick that day, just to watch the race!



#14 dc-65x

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 09:00 PM

Thanks Larry.    :) 

 

That front axle design makes for a much easier build. I believe it fell out of favor because the 2 front axle uprights increase the chassis stiffness. Tonyp's 2-piece motor box also makes for an easier build. Those things along with the simple pans and no plumber rail really make for easier anglewinder build for anyone wanting to give it a try.

 

Very cool that you were there for the race Dave.   :good:


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#15 dc-65x

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 01:41 PM

Tonyp used a modified Russkit inline motor bracket. I found this advertisment in the May 23, 1968 MCJ for an Associated anglewinder bracket with adjustable gear ratio:

 

MCJ V1N12 p8 may 23.jpg

 

This early anglewinder bracket could be the one in the ad and I'm going with it:

 

Matich chassis (27).JPG

 

I also installed the motor box to main rail braces:

 

Matich chassis (22).JPG

 

Matich chassis (23).JPG

 

The motor bracket is also soldered to the rear axle L-brace:

 

Matich chassis (25).JPG

 

I still need to add another motor bracket brace......just not sure where yet:

 

Matich chassis (26).JPG

 

The drop arm is next:

 

Matich chassis (24).JPG

 

 

 


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#16 old & gray

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 01:56 PM

Lovely work as usual Rick! Obviously its been around for awhile but this design for supporting the front axle tube is new to me and I like its simplicity.

 

Thanks Larry.    :)

 

That front axle design makes for a much easier build. I believe it fell out of favor because the 2 front axle uprights increase the chassis stiffness. Tonyp's 2-piece motor box also makes for an easier build. Those things along with the simple pans and no plumber rail really make for easier anglewinder build for anyone wanting to give it a try.

 

Very cool that you were there for the race Dave.   :good:

 

I seem to remember the front axle tube support design changes when the plumber hinge moves in front of the axle.


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#17 dc-65x

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Posted 27 July 2021 - 11:52 AM

Hi Bob

 

That rear axle tube support was a convenient and popular place to mount the plumber hinge. A quick look through MCJ/MRJ and I didn't see any cars with that style axle mount located anywhere else.

 

I did see a mix of this style axle tube mount and the main rails bent up 90 style. Then the evolution to the long used L-braces mounted between the frame rails took over.


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#18 dc-65x

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 05:35 PM

Here's a COBRA 3/4" drop arm and my modified arm for 3/16" ID tube and relief cuts for the hinge tube:

 

Matich chassis (2).JPG

 

This is the 3rd time I've used this style drop arm down stop and setup to solder it in place. It just works:

 

Matich chassis (28).JPG

 

Soldering on the hinge tube and guide flag tube:

 

Matich chassis (29).JPG

 

The finished drop arm:

 

Matich chassis (31).JPG

 

Matich chassis (32).JPG

 

Time for the pans:

 

Matich chassis (33).JPG


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#19 Isaac S.

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 08:15 PM

Did you turn down where the guide tube was soldered to the drop arm? I assume it was just for cleanup? It looks great, lots of brass on this one. 


Isaac Santonastaso

#20 dc-65x

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 08:36 PM

Hi Isaac,

 

Tonyp used a brass tube for the guide in his build so I did the same. I opened up the hole in the drop arm to 7/32". The COBRA drop arm's guide tongue was also anything but flat so I left a little of the tube protrude from the bottom of the drop arm:

 

Matich chassis (30).JPG

 

The tubes top and bottom surfaces are flat and parallel.


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#21 Isaac S.

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 08:44 PM

I was wondering about this. The circular scratches make me think that it was turned on your sherline. 

Screenshot 2021-07-28 at 9.42.10 PM.png


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#22 dc-65x

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 08:49 PM

Those circular scratches were done with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper draped over the tube and a twisting motion done by hand. Makes a nice uniform cleanup.   :dance3:

It didn't to anything to the actual solder joint, just smoothed out the solder on the guide tongue from moving the soldering iron around the tube.

 

It's cool that you noticed it Isaac.  


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#23 Isaac S.

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Posted 28 July 2021 - 08:58 PM

Ah, your twisting is very smooth. I will try that trick.  :victory:


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 12:06 PM

I've been waffling for a few days on the pans. I've decided to take some ideas from Team Nutley team car that deviate from the how-to article. I'm not adding a 1/16" rod to the outside edge of the pan and I'll be using the team cars pan down stops:

 

MCJ V1N15 p5 - Copy.jpg

 

But first, I finally attached the pan hinges.  In 20/20 hindsight, I wish I'd moved the drop arm hinge a little farther back:

 

Matich chassis.JPG

 

The pans and extra long pan hinges jigged up:

 

Matich chassis (36).JPG

 

I don't like trying to hold little short pieces of pin tube in place so I leave them long and let the hinge tube hold them in place:

 

Matich chassis (37).JPG

 

Then I can add solder to the top of the tubes and let it wick down to the pans without dragging the irons tip on the pan. Makes for a super neat and easy cleanup later on:

 

Matich chassis (38).JPG

 

Pan down stops are next.

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 01:04 PM

I really like the "wickie-wickie" trick  :good:  Brilliant, Maestro  :D


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