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NAMRA - Jose Rodriguez Jr. inspired Ferrari P4 Can-Am build


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 05:03 PM

I have a beautiful Lancer Ferrari P4 Can-Am body. It's a #963 Super Competition version, one of the 'fabulous first four' released by Lancer as shown in the data sheet included with the body:

 

NAMRA body (11).JPG

 

These bodies along with the Super Comp Matich and Chaparral 2G first show up in the Auto World Catalog in the 1968 edition.

 

NAMRA body (4).JPG

 

The body is super-detailed and I think absolutely gorgeous:

 

NAMRA body (9).JPG

 

NAMRA body (10).JPG

 

NAMRA body (7).JPG

 

NAMRA body (6).JPG

 

It's also massive for a 1968 body. It's a full 3-1/4" wide at the wheel arches. This allows the body to be dropped down over the 3" wide period track width and sit down low. This is great for a pro car I want to build. But there is a problem with the body sitting over the typical 1968 3/4" front and 7/8" rear tires: 

 

NAMRA body (3).JPG

 

Those small diameter tires are lost in the huge scale-size wheel openings:

 

NAMRA body (2).JPG

 

NAMRA body (1).JPG

 

This is where NAMRA and Jose Rodriguez Jr. come into the play. NAMRA had a 1" minimum tire diameter rule which will fill up those huge wheel openings in the body. Jose Rodriguez Jr. built the beautiful concours-winning P4 in an early 1969 NAMRA race pictured below:

 

MCS 8-69 pg3b.jpg

 

So the plan for this build is my own 'inspired by' version (not a clone) of Jose's wonderful car.

 

I've scanned the period magazine race report and will post it next...


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#2 Isaac S.

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 06:27 PM

This is gonna be good! 


Isaac Santonastaso

#3 dc-65x

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 06:53 PM

It should be a fun project Isaac with a scratch built anglewinder chassis, rewound 16D style motor and a good old vac body.  

 

Here's the NAMRA race report. Click on the photos to super enlarge them:

 

MCS 8-69 cover.jpg

 

Did you notice the address label on the magazine cover? That's the shop of Lenz motor fame.   :sun_bespectacled:

 

MCS 8-69 pg1.jpg

 

Nice King Cobra:

 

MCS 8-69 pg2.jpg

 

MCS 8-69 pg3.jpg

 

I like the concours lineup too:

 

MCS 8-69 pg3a.jpg


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 08:42 PM

:shok:  Those were the days  :D


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#5 FastRichard

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 09:23 PM

Sure wish someone would make those bodies again.
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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 10:31 PM

REHCO at one time re-popped Lancer bodies, The Lancer bodies in a clear bag with a black & lavender label were made by REHCO. Mid America borrowed some of  the REHCO molds last year & had bodies made on them, but I don't know if he still does. We use to have Tom Andersen in Ft. Wayne, IN who re-popped some of the vintage bodies, but he stopped about 5 yrs. ago.


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#7 Martin

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Posted 25 September 2021 - 11:09 PM

Original Lancer bodies are the best. Glad the some of the remaining bodies are in Rick's skillful hands.

 

Looking forward to seeing this one come together. :good:


Martin Windmill

#8 tonyp

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Posted 26 September 2021 - 02:17 PM

FYI   The track with on NAMRA cars (center to center) was determined by the specs of the real cars.  That’s why the fronts are so wide to get a wider front track for better handling.  Same deal with wheelbase 


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#9 dc-65x

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Posted 26 September 2021 - 03:26 PM

Thanks for the info Tony. The only thing I knew about was the 1" minimum tire diameter rule. 


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#10 Slot Car Rod

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Posted 26 September 2021 - 03:56 PM

I remember the Lotus Europa entry looking for the unfair advantage with tires smaller than 1" in a NAMRA race.  The real car had smaller diameter wheels and tires than most.


Rodney Chew

#11 dc-65x

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Posted 26 September 2021 - 04:20 PM

Hi Rodney,

 

I've got the scale version of the Lancer Lotus 47 (Europa) body. I've been hoping to find the "low and wide" version forever.  :) 

 

The first order of business are wheels, tires and wheel inserts. Starting with the front wheels and tires, I know they need to be at least 1” in diameter and as Tony's explained, they also need to be pretty wide.

 

By the time of this race NAMRA had a couple of sources for custom front tires for their cars. From the race report:

 

MCS 8-69 pg1a.jpg

 

I’ve seen what look like K&B Goodyear Stock Car Special tires used in previous race reports so that what I’m using:

 

NAMRA wheels (12).JPG

 

With the scale size tires I might as well use appropriate wheels too. This Ferrari used 15” wheels. That 15” is actually the tire’s diameter across the bead. The wheel diameter for that size tire is 1” to 1 1/2” larger.

 

15” wheels are 16” to 16 1/2” in diameter or .665” to .688” in 1/24 scale.

 

‘Russkit 15” Road Wheels’ are too small at only 14 7/8” in diameter or .620” in 1/24 scale. Their ID is also too small for the wheel inserts I’ll be using.

 

I’m using K&B collet lock wheels that I can setup as “free wheeling” and with the K&B tires mounted are a little over 1”:

 

NAMRA wheels (13).JPG

 

With a little truing up they are 1” and ready to go:

 

NAMRA wheels (15).JPG

 

Wheel inserts are next.......


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#12 dc-65x

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Posted 27 September 2021 - 11:05 AM

The very distinctive wheels on the P4:

 

1967_Ferrari_350CanAm-3-1536.jpg

 

Years ago Rodney gave me this old AMT model kit. I was going to bust open the sealed parts bag for the wheels:

 

NAMRA wheels (5).JPG

 

I stumbled across these current production Ferrari wheel inserts and the vintage model kit was spared:

 

NAMRA wheels (1).JPG

 

I turned down an aluminum spud for a light press fit to hold the inserts. 

 

NAMRA wheels (2).JPG

 

They are cut down to .550" diameter to fit the K&B front wheels:

 

NAMRA wheels (3).JPG

 

The finished inserts with "mystery" knock offs ready for paint:

 

NAMRA wheels (4).JPG

 

Now, what to do for set screw rear wheels to fit a .625" wide tire, is .660" in diameter and with a .550" ID for the wheel insert...... :D

 

NAMRA wheels.JPG

 


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#13 Dave Crevie

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Posted 27 September 2021 - 11:16 AM

They are the Chromodora Penta-Star wheels used on many production Ferraris through the 1970's. A lot of Ferrari model kits had them.



#14 dc-65x

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Posted 28 September 2021 - 05:36 PM

Thanks Dave. I'm glad I found just wheel inserts to modify so I didn't have to sacrifice any model kit.

 

To make the larger diameter PRO style setscrew wheels a full 5/8" wide I started with 1" lengths of 13/16" 6061T6 aluminum round stock from OnlineMetals.com. 

 

On my little Sherline hobby lathe (from left to right) a 1/4" hole was drilled then bored out to 1/2":

 

NAMRA wheels (6a).JPG

 

The part was flipped around, cut to length and the setscrew boss turned down:

 

NAMRA wheels (6b).JPG

 

The tire mounting surface was cut to size leaving a larger diameter flange like the old wheels used to have:

 

NAMRA wheels (6c).JPG

 

The ID was cut to .550" for the wheel inserts and the little bead detail cut into the flange face:

 

NAMRA wheels (6d).JPG

 

The wheels turned out nice but the process was a lot slower and more involved using the little hobby lathe:

 

NAMRA wheels (6e).JPG

 

For tires I used some Alpha Wonder Rubber Humongous donuts I've had in my refrigerator for years. Mounting an Xacto knife in the hobby lathe made slicing the excess rubber off easy and precise. Very little grinding was needed:

 

NAMRA wheels (6f).JPG

 

Time for the motor and chassis..........


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#15 Isaac S.

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Posted 28 September 2021 - 05:45 PM

Wow! Great job.


Isaac Santonastaso

#16 dc-65x

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Posted 01 October 2021 - 07:50 PM

Thanks Isaac   :)

 

To power the Ferrari I decided to build up a "race motor" from a variety of parts. For the can I'm using Champion's 1-hole version of the 1968 Mabuchi can. I ditched the crappy ball bearing and replaced it with a Champion oilite bearing:

 

NAMRA motor (4).JPG

 

I added Versitec magnets, a Dynamic (Mura) semi-can shim and Certus top and bottom shims:

 

NAMRA motor (7).JPG

 

NAMRA motor (6).JPG

 

For and early '69 motor I have a NOS Mura second generation white "unmeltable" end bell:

 

NAMRA motor (2).JPG

 

The brush holders are soldered to the brush hoods:

 

NAMRA motor (9).JPG

 

0-80 stainless steel machine screws hold everything together:

 

NAMRA motor (5).JPG

 

Now that I have a setup I'm going to start on a chassis while I ruminate on an armature.......


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#17 dc-65x

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Posted 03 October 2021 - 06:33 PM

For my chassis I'll be following Mike Morrissey's March 1969 Model Racing Journal How-to, "The New 2-Rail Chassis":

 

MRJ V1N9 p4.jpg

 

MRJ V1N9 p5.jpg

 

Should be fun..... :dance3:


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#18 dc-65x

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 09:05 PM

To start the chassis the 9/32" rear axle tube gets a 12 degree clearance cut:

 

2-rail chassis (4).JPG

 

The motor gets shifted around until everything clears and then soldered to the axle tube:

 

2-rail chassis (8).JPG

 

I think the most important part of the chassis are the half rails. Here are Mike's:

 

MRJ V1N9 p4a.jpg

 

I made mine with one less bend for each of them because I like the way that looks. But thinking about it I bet that extra bend could help with tweaking the half rails to the right position:

 

2-rail chassis (1).JPG

 

2-rail chassis (2).JPG

 

The half rails attached and the chassis can really start coming together now.........

 

2-rail chassis (3).JPG


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 09:57 PM

Awesome  :man_in_love:

Do those Dynamic angled spurs mesh well with 7 and 8T brass pinions?


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#20 dc-65x

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 10:15 PM

Hi Pablo.

 

Dynamic has 7T and 8T pinions just of these gears. They can work really well.

 

Dynamic parts (3).JPG


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#21 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 10:22 PM

I meant "how do the spurs work"?


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#22 dc-65x

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 10:15 AM

I've had really good luck with them Pablo. Like is says on the spur gear package, I think they are happiest at a 10 degree or more motor angle though.

 

Dynamic parts (2).JPG


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 12:34 PM

Thank you  :)


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 09 October 2021 - 05:12 PM

The inner rails are 1/16" brass rod and spaced for a 1 1/4" drop arm. The outer rails are 1/16" piano wire:

 

2-rail chassis (9).JPG

 

The front axle jigged up:

 

2-rail chassis (10).JPG

 

This early style front axle uprights with the ones behind the axle facing rearward:

 

2-rail chassis (13).JPG

 

End bell side rear axle brace:

 

2-rail chassis (11).JPG

 

And the can side brace:

 

2-rail chassis (12).JPG

 

The center section scrubbed down with a Scotch Brite pad and ready for a drop arm:

 

2-rail chassis (14).JPG

 

2-rail chassis (15).JPG

 

 


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#25 dc-65x

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Posted 13 October 2021 - 07:59 PM

Here's the Team Nutley, Tonyp approved drop arm I'm using. Quality stuff:

 

2-rail chassis (16).JPG

 

The drop arm hinge tubes attached to the frame.......

 

2-rail chassis (18).JPG

 

.........and the drop arm and it's hinge tube along with relief cuts to keep the solder from flowing into the hinge:

 

2-rail chassis (21).JPG

 

The one piece plumber rail hinge tube:

 

2-rail chassis (24).JPG

 

Now the arm is ready for its plumber rails:

 

2-rail chassis (23).JPG


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