Any recommendations for awakening stored motors that were kept in plastic motor boxes in our home? Mostly Retro Hawk but some Hawk 7. All have good brush thickness. I have read, I think, that stored motors rarely return to their prior performance.

Stored motors
Started by
FVracer
, Jan 14 2022 09:39 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 14 January 2022 - 09:39 PM
Diana Dyckman
#2
Posted 15 January 2022 - 03:42 AM
I'm not sure about motors losing performance over time in a box. However, time waits for no motor.
In the last 2 weeks, I pulled out a motor that has not been in a car or run for about 30 years. I ran it and went lap times that surpassed most of the local guys playing around.
I would suggest some things to check before you return it to service:
- check the foam in the motor box. I have had some of that turn to mush and that gets itself into the motor. Remove it with a brush and compressed air.
- visually inspect the motor. If anything looks out of whack, address that first.
- make sure it still turns! Sometimes the arm will develop rust or corrosion in the bushings/bearings
- blow the motor out with compressed air
- give the motor a rinse with your preferred motor spray cleaner
- lubricate the motor. Turn the arm by hand to spread this into the bushings/bearings.
- treat the motor to a brief spin at 3v on your power supply to make sure it's working.
-if it's not right at 3v, go through it.
- if it's right at 3v, crank it up BRIEFLY (like 2 seconds) to a higher voltage, i.e. 6v. LISTEN. Check amp draw. Turn back down to 3v, then off.
FYI I let all my slot cars sit idle for 20 years. All of them ran nicely when I pulled them out, but they are slower than today's cars.
In the last 2 weeks, I pulled out a motor that has not been in a car or run for about 30 years. I ran it and went lap times that surpassed most of the local guys playing around.
I would suggest some things to check before you return it to service:
- check the foam in the motor box. I have had some of that turn to mush and that gets itself into the motor. Remove it with a brush and compressed air.
- visually inspect the motor. If anything looks out of whack, address that first.
- make sure it still turns! Sometimes the arm will develop rust or corrosion in the bushings/bearings
- blow the motor out with compressed air
- give the motor a rinse with your preferred motor spray cleaner
- lubricate the motor. Turn the arm by hand to spread this into the bushings/bearings.
- treat the motor to a brief spin at 3v on your power supply to make sure it's working.
-if it's not right at 3v, go through it.
- if it's right at 3v, crank it up BRIEFLY (like 2 seconds) to a higher voltage, i.e. 6v. LISTEN. Check amp draw. Turn back down to 3v, then off.
FYI I let all my slot cars sit idle for 20 years. All of them ran nicely when I pulled them out, but they are slower than today's cars.
- Pete L. likes this
Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
#3
Posted 15 January 2022 - 08:54 AM
Sometimes the material the comm plates are embedded in degrades over time. It might look okay & be okay, then it might not be okay on some old arms.
Bill Fernald
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.


#4
Posted 15 January 2022 - 10:47 AM
I have old Mabuchi 16 and 36ds and Strombecker Hemi 300 and 400s that still run great
- Pete L. likes this
#5
Posted 15 January 2022 - 03:43 PM
Thanks for the info
Diana Dyckman