20 replies to this topic

[Shruska55]

Hi All,

 

I don't know much about magnet zappers and whether they will work or not on sealed can motors. The most recent magnet zapper thread I found here was from 2019.

 

I ask because while motors are cheap and reliability has come up, there is still situations where I find myself buying 5 to find 1 or 2 good ones. I don't know if magnet zapping would help or not.

 

Has there been any development of a sealed can zapper or perhaps the question might be, is there a need or demand?

 

Any information is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Scott

[Paul Menkens]

someone who knows more might correct me, but I believe that magnet zappers work on ceramic magnets, the new Mid America zapper will work on magnets without taking the motor apart (I think) but (I think) a lot of the sealed motors use other types of magnets

[Matt Sheldon]

I cannot imagine needing to zap a modern FK motor such as a CR102-CR106, Raptor or most of the high end Mid America motors.

[Shruska55]

As I said, I don't know much about magnet zappers, but have seen them talked about.

 

I cannot imagine needing to zap a modern FK motor such as a CR102-CR106, Raptor or most of the high end Mid America motors.

When you say the above, why is that the case? And what about other sealed motors that fall into that category?

 

1. Why are they used?

2. Do they apply to sealed can motors aside from those you mention?

3. What type of magnets benefit from them

4. All other questions as might be asked here.

 

If this is just for a motor building class of motor, then please say that. For neophytes like me, inquiring minds want to know!

 

Thanks,

Scott

[Brian Czeiner]

It is my understanding that zapping magnets only takes them back to their original strength. It will not improve a mismatched set of magnets. I don't see any benefit for sealed motor classes.   Zapping a turd motor will only make it a medium-well to well-done turd. I imagine there are singular instances, but I would expect it to be rare cases. Of course, the racer only needs to believe it helps.

 

I suspect the 1 or 2 good motors you speak of probably have magnets that are matched by accident on the production line than the power in them.

[MSwiss]

It's not going to improve a substandard motor.
 
If zapping the motor before packing it was all a slot car company needed to do to make it a winner, I'm pretty they would do it.
 
The poly neo mags, in a sealed motor like in a Retro Hawk, can  be zapped.
 
It will change what the strength reading show on the outside of a can, but usually not improve them.
 
It just changes where on the can the higher #'s will read.
 
FWIW, I was GM at Koford for 19 years.
 
Even with U.S. made, "high end" motors, racers who run in classes with armature specs, always tended to buy a lot of arms, and build a lot of motors.
 
It's just the nature of the beast on tracks where getting from the Lead-on to the Deadman in the shortest time, could help with one winning the race.

[Bags]

Scott 

Looks like you have to get “lucky” as you put it when you buy motors from the posts above.

Zapping tin can motors won’t make em run any better.

[Shruska55]

Thanks Tom.

 

My question appears to have been answered.

 

ScottH

[Greg VanPeenen]

The reason the newest throwaway motors do not need zapping is the use of solid neo magnets. These magnets are very strong and last the life of the throwaway motors with no problems.

 

I sincerely hope if JK decides to upgrade the Retro Hawks to CR-102 specs that IRRA lets them run. 

[Mark Onofri]

Is there a one size fits all zapper? I've got inline, ARCO, black, blue,red and, white dots, ceramic and,pollyneos.

[Bill from NH]

No. 

[Mark Onofri]

No,as in no ? So I need four or five ?

[gotboostedvr6]

In my old age Im starting to find that good setups make better motors then a good arm in a ok setup.

[Mark Onofri]

Gotboosterdvr6,I'm with you. And when I say I'm with you, I'm with you.
Most motors , most, gain little from re-zapping. However, inline & Bonner motors , once disembowel, have to be re-zapped. I find it hard to justify the unneeded expenditure in multiple zappers when it's $ I can spend on .......

[Mark Onofri]

MORE MOTORS!!!!!!+

[Bill from NH]

No,as in no ? So I need four or five ?

 

I have no idea what your black, red, & blue ones are, Early Mabuchi & French magnets will gauss lower after a zap. Others may too. 

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Billnh. The dots are Champion. They came in several flavors. Black, blue, yellow (I need a pair of these),red and white.
The red were longer & I believe for G-20 & up. The white were shorter & like I said about the reds, were for G-12.. The blue .... And I'm not 100% were for either 16-D with a shim or, 12-C's. Yellow, I'm not sure. Back idk.

[Mark Onofri]

But, I'm probably not alone in wondering what zapper to buy.

[Bill from NH]

DZs were red dots, one mag, yeiiow dots on the other, followed by blue dots. then white dots. These were all Champion C-can size magnets that also fit into 16D cans with Champion's 1- & 2-piece shims. Used from the late 60s into the 80s with open class & Grp. 20/22 arms in full glue racing. All the Champion magnets are ceramic & can be zapped with a ceramic zapper. I have no idea what the black & yellow dot magnets are & I never have had either. I have an old Simco zapper.

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Billnh. I know that the red, yellow and white dots are Champion. Maybe others had red dots to. dc65-x describes the blue in one of his build

[Mark Onofri]

Damn phone.
In one of his builds. I'll find it later. Unless someone else knows the answer.