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#1 40degreerake

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:00 PM

I'm new to slot cars and building a Retro Stock Car that I have a chassis for.

I've bought some rear wheels that don't have a flange or set screw. How do I secure them to the rear axle.

All advice is appreciated.
Rick Peller




#2 Cheater

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:05 PM

Look closely. I'm guessing the set screw is hidden under the tire rubber.

What brand and part number are the wheels?

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#3 Rotorranch

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:12 PM

Look for a mark on the back of the hub. It may look like a scratch. The set screw should be located at that point, under the tire rubber. Peel the rubber up and you should see a hole and the screw.

 

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#4 40degreerake

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:43 PM

Well, well lookie there. I see the scratch mark on each wheel.

Should I gently peel it back with my thumb until I can access the screw?

They're Alpha by the way.
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Rick Peller

#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:44 PM

Look for a pinhole in the tire surface before you start pulling rubber away from the hub. This pinhole is where you insert an allen wrench to access the hub's set screw. To keep track of where set screws are, I mark the inside of a hub with permanent marker.


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#6 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 03:54 PM

Do not use your thumb and separate the rubber from the rim. Use the wrench tip to reach the screw going through the entire tire or you can just go through the inside sidewall of the tire.

Either way, there is a good chance the screw will have glue and rubber filling part of the hole and will need to be cleaned out in order for the wrench to seat all the way.
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Eddie Fleming

#7 40degreerake

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 04:38 PM

Bill and Eddie. I definitely see the marks on the sidewalls. Looking into the axle hole I see their close to the edge. All good so far. Next question, what size hex is the set screw?
Rick Peller

#8 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 04:50 PM

The screw is 4-40 and the wrench is .050


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#9 40degreerake

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 04:59 PM

Great. :) One more question, what size screws do in need for a 16D motor. Size and length please. I really appreciate your help guys.
Rick Peller

#10 40degreerake

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 05:07 PM

More specific a Professor Motor PMTRHR.
Rick Peller

#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 06:01 PM

You don't say what chassis you're using, but in general, I like soldering in a motor rather than screwing it in. Soldering provides a more permanent mounting. Screws will eventually loosen up & your gears may become chewed. I don't know what that PM motor is, but if it's an oriental sealed one with threaded holes, use M2 screws about 2.5-3 mm long. Buy your screws where you buy your motor.


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#12 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 06:58 PM

.050" and use a quality wrench. "L" shaped Allen wrenches will just frustrate you.
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#13 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 07:49 PM

I don't know what the rules are at your raceway but the 16D motor is not usually used in a Retro car.
 
For the sealed Retro motors the short M2 screws Bill mentioned are what the can is tapped for.
 
Some people do but I do not solder motors in Retro cars. Never had a problem so far. I have seen people not get the screws tight and I have seen people knock a soldered-in motor out. Done with care, either way works.
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#14 Jay Guard

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 08:50 PM

I would say that a large majority of Retro racers just use screws to hold the motor in. I can second what Dave Parrotta said about getting a good .050" wrench, like a Hudy. They cost a good bit more but will hold up for a long time and really get the set screws tight without stripping.
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#15 Dave Crevie

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 10:13 AM

And use flatted axles. These have a flat spot ground in where the set screws go.



#16 40degreerake

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 04:58 PM

Jay,

 

I bought a Hudy. I'm familiar with their stuff coming from R/C cars.

 

Dave, can you recommend a flatted 3/32 axle? I have one flatted for the crown gear and am not aware of one flatted for wheels.

 

Thanks in advance.


Rick Peller

#17 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 05:30 PM

My opinion is, you don't need a flatted axle for retro. But if you feel the need, Mike Swiss at Chicagoland Raceway has the best ones. They are only flatted at the crown gear. 

 

I have a racing buddy that spins crowns every so often. I tell him (somewhat tongue-in-cheek) "if you ain't strippin' one out every now and then, you ain't gettin' 'em tight enough" :D


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#18 40degreerake

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 07:04 PM

Thanks Pablo. Thats the axle I have, crown gear only. Nice axle.
Rick Peller

#19 slotcarone

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 07:58 PM

Hi Rick

While there may be a few using flatted axles they are generally not used in Retro. Makes setting the wheel spacing and gear mesh much harder IMO. I have been racing Retro since the beginning and see no reason to use them. More problems caused by tightening the set screw not fully seated on the flat and then it loosens up.Also the screw holes in the motors are metric but for best results most use 2-56 screws. They go in nice and tight and never loosen or strip. 


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#20 Rotorranch

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:04 PM

Hi Rick

While there may be a few using flatted axles they are generally not used in Retro. Makes setting the wheel spacing and gear mesh much harder IMO. I have been racing Retro since the beginning and see no reason to use them. More problems caused by tightening the set screw not fully seated on the flat and then it loosens up.Also the screw holes in the motors are metric but for best results most use 2-56 screws. They go in nice and tight and never loosen or strip. 

 

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Rotor


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#21 MSwiss

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:09 PM

Sorry, Mike Katz.

Wrong on the flatted axle assessment.

All the guys, I've seen, having to stop midheat, to tighten their crowns, are racers without flats.

Ed Sohl gave up 3 or 4 places, in the Sano Can Am , A Main, with a loose gear, on a non-flatted axle.

Early that weekend, the toughest racer in Retro, also had one come loose, but his car and driving, was superior enough, to overcome losing the 3-4 laps.

Adjusting is harder, but the piece of mind, is well worth, whatever extra time, it takes, prerace.

And with my flatted axles, the flats are so wide, you always see a portion of it sticking out of at least one end, so you would have to make an effort, NOT have it oriented correctly.

PS-and most do not use 2/56 screws. That is just a guess on your part.


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#22 bbr

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:30 PM

either axles, just tighten all setscrews before lining up your car, my ocd procedure... :yes:


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#23 40degreerake

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:31 PM

Thank slotcarone for the 2-56 motor screw advice. What length please? Also Pablo, Ive been a mechanic for a lil bit. Cars, motorcycles, conveyors, wind mill generators and bicycles to name a few. I have the feel for what is tight. (Please dont take this as arrogance) I was also a mechanical designer for 28 years at H-D as well. Im grateful for everyones advice, you guys rock. I need a hobby that hopefully wont run into the expense of RC cars. * shrug*
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Rick Peller

#24 bbr

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:36 PM

get quality setscrews and motor screws, you can crank on them without stripping them


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#25 slotcarone

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:51 PM

Thank slotcarone for the 2-56 motor screw advice. What length please? Also Pablo, Ive been a mechanic for a lil bit. Cars, motorcycles, conveyors, wind mill generators and bicycles to name a few. I have the feel for what is tight. (Please dont take this as arrogance) I was also a mechanical designer for 28 years at H-D as well. Im grateful for everyones advice, you guys rock. I need a hobby that hopefully wont run into the expense of RC cars. * shrug*

2-56x1/8 button head screws have a .050 hex and you use the same wrench as the gears and wheels. Opinions vary on which screws to use! Either will work. You will definitely spend way less racing Retro than RC!


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