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#1 Larry Horner

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 06:59 PM

Tribute 1 - I read a Tony P post the other day about a Marty Stanley memorial race and I was not aware that Marty had passed. When I first got back into slots and tried my hand at scratch building for the first time, my love of open wheeled cars led me to a post by Marty in which he built a D3 spec F1 car in which the front wheels mounted to outer rails which were Plummer hinged to the main rail. The design was clean and simple enough that I decided to give it a try. Ultimately I discovered two things. I dont know if Marty pioneered this concept or got it from someone else but it actually handles really really well. Especially when I used 052 wire in the hinge allowing a great deal of torsional flexibility. The other thing I learned is that when you butt mount your front axel support uprights to the brass plate siderails, they are quite fragile. My first car using this design is still around, still handles really well and has had the butt mounted supports repaired multiple times.
 
Tribute 2 -  As the only person to ever win Grand Prix championships on both 2 and 4 wheels, John Surtees was one of my heros. So when he died, I did my first tribute car, namely a Honda RA300 which was never a particularly successful car nor was it one he much cared for but he did win one race in it and it was also a stunning car visually. For this car, I again used Marty's design but with one major caveat I cut some slots in the 1/4 floating side plates into which the front axel support upright are inset as opposed to butt mounted. This car handles even better and has yet to break!
 
Tribute 3 - I always loved Chris Amon and was very sad that he never managed to win an F1 championship. So when he died, I decided he too needed a tribute car and naturally this one had to be a Ferrari 312. But these bodies are getting scarce these days so I am grateful that Rick Thigpen had an extra he was willing to let go. And for this car, I again went with Marty's proven design but this time with one major change. Instead of brass plate, the side rails are 4 separate brass rods which bend upward at the front to become the axel support risers. Who doesn't love the look of multiple brass rails soldered together! This car is the actual subject of this points.
 
But first a bit of digression. I have always loved the visual simplicity of  F1 cars of this era with no wings, clean paint with very few sponsorship logos. And looking at Neil Elmholts stunning creations (http://slotblog.net/...retro-workshop/), Im clearly not the only one so Neil, keep on doing what youre doing!
 
 
Now to the main event. Up first are the chassis components of which there are three. These are:
 
1. The mail rail which is simply a standard 3/4 loop of 063 SS, a RGEO offset motor bracket, a 1 x 3/4 x 063 brass plate, a bit of 032 box tubing (soldered directly under the front axel) and a MSwiss 2 degree tongue. Easy peasy.
 
2. The side rails are basically 4 063 adjacent brass rails that bend at the front to become the front axel support risers. Two of these constructs are then connected by multiple cross members which function both as plumber pivots as and support for the body pin tubes. Once tricky detail is that the plumber hinge that supports the side rails in front is between the risers. And the 3/32 box tubing that makes up the hinge is inset into a piece of 1/8 U tubing. The reason for this is to allow the fatter hinge tube to be soldered directly to the risers.
 
3. A floating 032 center pan which is also plumber hinged at the back.
 
 
 

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#2 Larry Horner

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 07:03 PM

Here is the finished chassis assembled. It has 4" wheelbase, 1" guide offset and is exactly 50 grams. The bottom photo has enough detail that you can see where the plumber pivot tube is inset to fatten it up a bit.

 

 

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#3 Larry Horner

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 07:07 PM

Finally here is the finished car complete with a Noose paint job and a pair of Dennis Samson double ball bearing F1 wheels. The threaded front axel is totally unnecessary but I really like how it looks!

 

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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 07:27 PM

Larry, your F1 Chassis looks fine, When the car is complete, be sure to tell us how it ran.

 

Marty Stanley was a very good builder of both 1/32 & 1/24 scale cars. He was a very much "down-to-earth" type of man. I shared a number of posts & PM's with Larry. As experienced as he was, he always took the time to listen to your questions & suggestions .I too learned a lot by interfacing with Marty over the years. Florida & the general 1/32 community really missed him when he passed. I don't know whether you know it or not, the Home Racing World BBS renamed their scratchbuilding forum to The Marty Stanley Scratchbuilding Shop.


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#5 Pablo

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 07:33 PM

Looks great, Larry  :clapping:  :good:  Nice and clean and sexy  :heart:


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Paul Wolcott


#6 Alchemist

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 07:34 PM

Hi Larry and a belated Happy New Year!

 

The car looks fantastic!

 

I too, really appreciate this area of F1 cars - excellent craftsmanship!

 

Thank you for sharing and hope you post more of your projects Larry!

 

Be well.

 

Ernie


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#7 Martin

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Posted 02 January 2021 - 10:38 PM

Nicely done Larry. :good:  I love the mid to late 60s open wheel cars too :heart: .


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#8 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 08:00 AM

Larry am I correct in thinking you must take the front axle out to get the body off? I can't see a split below the axle.

 

Beautiful car and build. :good:


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#9 Larry Horner

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 01:03 PM

Bill, I never got to interact with Marty directly but you could tell from his posts that he was a standup guy. Glad to hear he's being remembered in multiple ways! it's the most any of us can hope for really. Assuming of course that we don't live forever.

 

Guys, glad you like the car. It's been finished for months now but I'm gonna wait till I get "The Shot" before I venture over to Eddie's. Martin and Ernie, perhaps we can all meet at Eddie's for its maiden lap!

 

Good eyes Eddie ... you are correct. Since I don't race (and there are no classes in the US for this type of car anyway), there is no concern about being able to service the car quickly and I think not having the slot makes for a cleaner look. Another thing I can get away with is that there is no paint under the rear exhaust hence the pipe looks to extend out in space like the real car. This means my pink Parma crown is visible but hey, the magnesium diff of the original car probably had a pinkish tint too.



#10 Dallas Racer

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 01:05 PM

Larry, that chassis is beautiful but its going to need to be soldered. Glue is not going to work.


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#11 Larry Horner

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 01:07 PM

Ok, one time ... one time I use glue and look what happens!  :)


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#12 Martin

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 02:11 PM


Guys, glad you like the car. It's been finished for months now but I'm gonna wait till I get "The Shot" before I venture over to Eddie's. Martin and Ernie, perhaps we can all meet at Eddie's for its maiden lap!

 

 

That is something to look forward too. I will bring my Hondarari, its my old SR F1 race car. Give you a play race of sorts. :) 
 


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#13 Alchemist

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 07:50 PM

Hi Larry,

 

Ok, one time ... one time I use glue and look what happens!  

 

 

 

If you use/d this product, I believe you won't have any problems;  Bondic product website:    https://notaglue.com/

 

 

How strong is it?

 

 

 

Ernie


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#14 Martin

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 08:44 PM

Used this very tool a lot. Has lots of uses. I mainly use to hold parts in place then backing up with conventional epoxy.

But I have also used to build up or make parts. You can build up shapes and once you like what you see you can kick off with the UV.

I will never be without this tool now I have used it and now I know its limitations.

 

What are you wanting to glue?

 

P.S. That ad is B.S. in my experience. 


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Martin Windmill

#15 Martin

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 09:43 PM

 I use it for low strength applications.

This job was using this product only. You know I love the save. Someone had melted the window post on this 34 Ford. Not perfect but now presentable.

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Martin Windmill

#16 Larry Horner

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 09:50 PM

Well just to clear things up, I'm pretty sure Phil meant that as a joke in reference to when I epoxied the guide tongue on my Bumble Bee Bandit. In this case, everything on this chassis is silver soldered ... even the guide tongue! :shok:

 

That said, the save on that window post is pretty awesome Martin ... it looks totally undamaged!  :good:


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 09:50 PM

Marty Stanley was a great friend of mine and I have a story to share.

Marty was the tech man at a retro event I attended at The Viper Pit, years ago.

At the time, the minimum OD of front wheels in the IRRA Retro Flexi class was somewhat of a topic.

Marty and I had discussed it before the event. 

 

The rule was .600 min OD. At the time, Marty was having vision issues. In fact he was almost 100% blind in one eye.

During practice I was walking to the pits with car in hand and Marty looked at my car from 5 feet away. He said:

"Pablo, those fronts are too small". I said, "No they aren't, they are .600."

 

He said, "bring it here". He miked them at .597. He was right. With one bad eye 5 feet away he eyeball miked my front Oring wheels as out of spec. Even half blind he was sharp as a razor  :)


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 10:02 PM

Chris Barnes taught me a great retro F1 tip - use a paper hole punch to make holes for the axle, and a thin scissors to make a vertical slice from bottom of skirt to bottom of holes. Axle goes in and out by bending the body. It works only on thin race bodies, like 10 thou and less

 

IMG_7919.JPG


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#19 Larry Horner

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 10:23 PM

Great tip Pablo .... you get the clean look and the easier serviceability. Thanks!

 

I did a bit of digging around and found Marty's original post from which I built my original chassis. Unfortunately this post is 10 years old and all the images seem to be missing but you can definitely get a feel for Marty's character: http://www.slotcarta...t-2-in-a-series. It also has a great quote from Dennis ... "the best way to remove excess solder is to not put it on the chassis when you solder". Makes perfect sense and maybe someday I will get there!



#20 Martin

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 11:11 PM

Yes Larry, I could not see where you were gluing anything on your project, but Ernie mentioned that UV tool so I figured it was a good time to set the record straight.

On the hole punch, I use mine like a nibbler or to punch perfect axle holes.

Pablo I did not know I was not supposed to use it on .030'' bodies. Maybe they were made better back when? Been using mine for 30 years :wacko2: still cutting clean. 


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Martin Windmill

#21 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 11:14 PM

You said "nibbler" LOL Good night LOL I'd rather hang out with you guys than anybody in the world  :)


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