51 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

This is what happens when you start racing slot car at a early age or, for toooooo long.

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[MSwiss]

The resistor that Mike and Alan have installed in a Parma controller is a different one.

[Jim Difalco]

Replacing the handle or buying your controller?

Replacing the handle.

[Jim Difalco]

Mike Swiss: "Easy for a manufacturer who most likely works out of his home, to expect a raceway who pays rent, and has endured the Covid era, to just shell out $65 for a better item, rather than make do with a 25 cent fix and some labor."

 

Really Mike? Was this shot at me necessary? I have done a hell of a lot to support the industry like refusing to sell to racers when they ask me to buy direct. I always tell them to support their local raceway first so they have a place to race.

 

 

 

I think I deserve an apology from YOU.

[Jim Difalco]

"But was your "gluttons for punishment" comment necessary?"

 

Necessary, no, but It just seemed a heck of a lot of effort was spent on repairing a handle instead of buying a replacement one.

I think the sentence makes it clear I was referring to replacing the Koford handle which was the subject of the sentence.

[jimht]

Sorry Honeycutt but it does not have brake contacts.

Since it would take both hands to operate the rheostat properly, the brake would be actuated by a foot switch.   

[MSwiss]

I'll try again, Jim F.

Spending 10-15 minutes fixing the pivot issue fixes it forever.

Buying a new set of handles and still taking 5 or 10 minutes to reinstall the components, and then having the pivot on the new set of handles break, one, two, or three birthday parties down the line, seems foolish to me.

A more rugged controller, that never needs fixing, even if a bit more expensive, sounds good, but wasn't available until recently.

I'd still like an answer on whether it will hold up to a faster motor like a G20, being driven haphazardly.

That wouldn't have much impact on whether I buy them or not.

But it would still be useful information for myself on whether I could lend them out to people with old cars, powered by the common G20 Mura.

[Mark Onofri]

Jihmt, damn it, how did you know that I was going to build a foot break? And, I KNEW it would help to use (2) two hands on the controller!

[Mark Onofri]

After taking the (2) two apart for the photo, I took another look at the feasibility of the swap.
1) yah, it's doable
2) it's not a eazy switch
3) I've got better things to do
4) if someone made a new handel , I'd buy it
And most importantly,
5) I'm not going to use it!!!!!
It's the equivalent of a rental but,I'm sure it will cost me money opposed to making it 😂.

[Jim Difalco]

I'll try again, Jim F.

Spending 10-15 minutes fixing the pivot issue fixes it forever.

Buying a new set of handles and still taking 5 or 10 minutes to reinstall the components, and then having the pivot on the new set of handles break, one, two, or three birthday parties down the line, seems foolish to me.

A more rugged controller, that never needs fixing, even if a bit more expensive, sounds good, but wasn't available until recently.

I'd still like an answer on whether it will hold up to a faster motor like a G20, being driven haphazardly.

That wouldn't have much impact on whether I buy them or not.

But it would still be useful information for myself on whether I could lend them out to people with old cars, powered by the common G20 Mura.

Mike, I missed that you had a question for me. The haphazardly part, as you know, is part of the issue. More time on the bands means more heat. As far as damaging the controller it would not be a problem running G20 cars. The fuse will hold a constant 6 amps and open at over 10 amps so it will run most everything except G27 and opens.

 

The rental controller does have a heat shield on the heatsink to greatly reduce contact with your left hand. So I think the heat would be tolerable even with faster cars. The DD206 and DD207 versions with the sensitivity and brake rheostats do not have the heat shield but I was assuming they would be used by racers with a bit more skill so the shield would not be needed.

 

I have considered increasing the fuse value for the DD206 and DD207. My new DD201 model, info in about 10 days, will most likely have the higher fuse value so even if racers have old G7 cars they would be able to run them without the fuse cutting out. As long as the track is not too technical then heat should be acceptable for fast motors.

[team burrito]

koford does make replacement handles for the square model & it's a direct fit, except for one part. the power contact doesn't fit the post & i had to sand the hell out of it. it would have been easier to chop it off & replace it with a solid spacer. it could be a little longer in the grip, but other than that, it's a big improvement over the original handles.

[Mark Onofri]

Team B, ummmm, looking for a replacement that is ergonomic. Even for people with hands like mine. Unless I missed something,a direct replacement would still be like holding a 2"x4" .

[team burrito]

here you go: https://e-slotcar.co...andle-kof-m672/

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Mr. Burrito! I'll call Scott. Got to admit, it's not a bad controller, especially for beginners and lower powered cars.

[Bill from NH]

Those handles look like they're for a different Koford controller.

[Mark Onofri]

I just went to the PCH site. The controller that were discussing isn't shown. It's probably discontinued. The Koford controller definitely looks different. I've found out the hard way that, pioneering research is EXPENSIVE!!!!. Anyone tried to
" see if it fits"
I couldn't resist that quote.

[team burrito]

I just went to the PCH site. The controller that were discussing isn't shown. It's probably discontinued.

are we talking about the controller or the handles? as for swapping the components, yeah they fit where they're supposta.
 

[Mark Onofri]

Mr. Burrito, I posted a few pictures of the controller. Just hit the rewind ⏪ and you'll see it.

[Mark Onofri]

I found the part # M366. It's from 2003 if it helps.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, who do you think has 19-year-old parts?

[Mark Onofri]

Evilbay has everything ever produced by man since the dawn of time. The part # is just to identify the controller. Maybe they have a cross reference?🤔 I've actually purchased at least (1) one new resistor(?) block.

[Bill from NH]

If you need new handles, have Dan try to order you a pair from the distributer(s) he uses. That should tell you if any NOS is available. If distributors don't have them, you can play hide & seek with the mail order shops. No part #366 shows on the existing Koford.com website.

[MSwiss]

M366-3 was sold in 2 black handle versions, first with the gold finned aluminum heat sink, and later with the circuit board style switch block with the blue resistance wire.

 

M366-3 than was sold for many years with the more conventional clear handles and again, with the circuit board style switch block with the blue resistance wire.

 

In recent years, it's become the M558-3, and currently, it's sold as the M673-3.

 

IIRC, the stock number changes were because of the improved clear handle material(s).

 

The only replacement handle set I see at the moment is M672.

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, that's the one I'm trying to get away from.
Mike, will the internals from the M366 fit into this hande ? What's in the boxes?

[MSwiss]

This is the M673-3 which I'm 99% sure, uses the M672 handle.