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Scratchbuilt Cheetah


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#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 03:04 PM

Larry, not to steal Rick's thunder, but from a historical perspective, most slot cars from '65 were not being built using brass rod.


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#27 don.siegel

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 03:43 PM

True, but I didn't realize that Russkit's Scratchbuilder's instructions already recommended brass rod for the bottom rails! Thanks for pointing that out Rick. 

 

Don 



#28 dc-65x

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 03:57 PM

Even in the early 1966 Rod & Custom series the fastest qualifier in the first race used a "non-jail door" pin tube chassis. We need to remember that the vintage road race chassis did not begin with a heavy brass rod jail door design. Those evolved as motors got faster and tires with more traction were developed:

 

morressey R&C sports car pg 2.JPG

 

 


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 04:05 PM

True, but I didn't realize that Russkit's Scratchbuilder's instructions already recommended brass rod for the bottom rails! Thanks for pointing that out Rick. 

 

Don 

 

That surprised me too Don, especially since my kit came with all pin tubes and no rods.   :wacko2:  :D


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#30 dc-65x

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 07:50 PM

An "olden time" rear axle brace. 

 

cheetah chassis (13).JPG

 

cheetah chassis (12).JPG

 

A simple U-shape brace is much stronger, is easier to make and will become almost universally used.


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2023 - 09:59 PM

Sweet birdcage


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2023 - 03:46 PM

Thanks Pablo. Here's the drop arm hinge:

 

cheetah chassis (3).JPG

 

2 L-shaped rods and a hinge tube:

 

cheetah chassis (2).JPG

 

More brass tubes for the drop arm:

 

cheetah chassis (4).JPG

 

I added a down stop with very limited travel. It might be beneficial to have as much of the cars weight on the guide as possible.

 

cheetah chassis (11).JPG


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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 11:01 AM

The chassis is finished:

 

cheetah chassis (14).JPG

 

I tried to keep my 20/20 hindsight in check and not add any "upgrades":

 

cheetah chassis (15).JPG

 

cheetah chassis (17).JPG

 

I couldn't resist getting the body mounted even before I assembled the finished roller:

 

cheetah roller (1).JPG

 

The stance has a slight "California rake".......I'm liking it so far.


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#34 Dave Crevie

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 11:20 AM

I'm liking it, too.


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#35 Alchemist

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 11:40 AM

The "stance" is perfect Rick!

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Ernie


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#36 Larry Horner

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 01:39 PM

Much awesomeness ... I especially love the drop arm. Rick, was this body pre-trimmed or did you do that. If it was you, great job!



#37 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 01:45 PM

Love the chassis build with the motor angle.

 

Beautiful work.


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#38 Mad Mark

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 03:07 PM

So cool!
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#39 dc-65x

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 04:27 PM

Thanks to everyone for your encouragement. I appreciate it.

 

Here's a before picture of the disassembled motor:

 

lenz motor before (4).JPG

 

The motor ready to go back together with new old stock parts:

 

FSCN3024.JPG

 

The motor has heavier brush springs. The same number of coils but the wire is heavier. Heavy spring on the left compared to a Russkit 23 spring on the right:

 

lenz motor (2).JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 06:05 PM

Cheetahs always win. I may have one of those decals, if I find it do you want one, Rick?


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#41 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 07:29 PM

Rick, do you have a Fiddlestick to compare the tension of your big springs to that of the Russkit 23 springs? Any spring can be rebent to either increase or decrease its tension.


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#42 dc-65x

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Posted 06 May 2023 - 08:04 PM

Sorry I didn't answer you sooner Larry. The Lancer body was factory trimmed but I refined it especially the wheel openings. I use a mandrel like a plastic tire tube wrapped with 320 grit sandpaper. Often the wheelbase and wheel openings are not the same from one side of the body to the other. My personal experience with Dynamic bodies has been especially bad in this area.   :wacko2:

 

I don't have a Fiddlestick Bill so I can't compare the stock vs aftermarket brush spring tension. I have swapped out springs and adjusted brush spring tension based on the amp draw on the analyzer.


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#43 don.siegel

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Posted 08 May 2023 - 11:01 AM

Fabulous Rick - I'd almost be tempted to leave it like that! 

 

Don 



#44 dc-65x

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Posted 08 May 2023 - 11:21 AM

I'm adding all the goodies to make the roller right now Don. I'm interested to see if I can balance this lightweight, short wheelbase, short guide lead and rather tall cars power and traction. I hope it will not necessarily be the fastest car around the track but fun to drive. We'll see.

 

But first here are a couple of much maligned parts for the project car.

 

The Russkit Small Slant guide:

 

FSCN2980.JPG

 

And the MDC pot metal gear, deburred and polished:

 

FSCN3033.JPG


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#45 Dave Crevie

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Posted 08 May 2023 - 11:33 AM

The more I look at that body stance, the more I like it. I think it is probably as close to the real car as I have seen. The nice thing about the Cheetah is that it doesn't have the pronounced fender flares of some cars. That makes it easier to match the wheel openings side-to-side. 

 

I hate to allow myself to secumb to temptation to build another Cheetah, but I bet I will after seeing this thread. Might go sidewinder this time. 

 

cheetahalang.JPG



#46 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 May 2023 - 12:11 PM

Dave, Dom's Raceway in NJ pulls clear Cheetah bodies, unless you want to use a hard body. The Alan Green Cheetah is very popular to use in photographic & other articles. You're apt to see it most anywhere.


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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 22 May 2023 - 05:11 PM

I've finally got all the pieces in one lump:

 

cheetah roller (6).JPG

 

cheetah roller (7).JPG

 

cheetah roller (8).JPG

 

I prefer to use a steel pinion with a pot metal crown gear. This motor has had the armature shaft cut short so I went with this long Cox brass pinion. I'll make sure not enter any 12 hour enduro races.   :crazy:

 

cheetah roller (9).JPG

 

cheetah roller (3).JPG

 

cheetah roller (10).JPG

 

I've been struggling with how to attach the all important "honk'n side pipes" to the body. I made a little sheet styrene thingie to hold the side pipe and tried to attach it to the body.

 

It looked BAD.......as in NOT GOOD. Jairus could make it work and look great but I just don't have the modeling skills he makes look so easy.

 

Plan B for me is to attach the pipes to the chassis with metal fabrication and soldering. That's something I do know how to do and I'm fabricating the mounts now............


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#48 Martin

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Posted 23 May 2023 - 08:38 AM

"Plan B for me is to attach the pipes to the chassis with metal fabrication and soldering. That's something I do know how to do and I'm fabricating the mounts now............"

 

 

I think that method is a good way to go. I  chromed the brass with the chrome pen. Love those pens.

This is the only car I restored that has something similar. I think this is what you are thinking?

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Attached Images

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#49 Dave Crevie

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Posted 23 May 2023 - 08:38 AM

I really like what I see so far. I'd like to copy it with some minor changes. I have a couple more wide brackets that I believe are Unique, and would be a good starting point. Previously I used piano wire with this bracket. Want to do one in tubing like yours.

 

 



#50 dc-65x

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Posted 23 May 2023 - 08:08 PM

Thanks Dave,

 

Brass pin tube chassis are part of slot car history and make a fun build. I hope you go for it!   :D

 

Cool looking pipes Martin.......and very nice wheels too.

 

The first Cheetah's had long tube headers and you can see all 4 pipes entering the side pipe like this continuation version:

 

bill-thomas-cheetah--18.jpg

 

Most of the later race car versions have side pipes similar to this car that I'm modeling mine after. They are huge and stick out past the rear tires:   :crazy:

 

thomas-cheetah-9.jpg

 

I'm using some 3/32" X 3/16" rectangular brass tube and big honk'n parts box plastic pipes:

 

cheetah roller (11).JPG

 

An L-shaped 1/32" X 1/4" brass strip was soldered to both frame rails. They are about 1/8" above the track:

 

cheetah chassis (19).JPG

 

The rectangular tube was soldered to the strip:

 

cheetah chassis (20).JPG

 

Here everything is trimmed, cleaned up and the pipes installed:

 

cheetah roller (13).JPG

 

cheetah roller (14).JPG


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