54 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

My builds usually begin and end with the body. Courtney Smith won this as a race prize and I plan to make it a pro-era 1967-ish race replica.

I started gathering parts possibilities like a wild man

 

 

[Larry Horner]

One of my Truescale favorites! You probably know this already but that is a pre-wing version of the RA301 (https://en.wikipedia...iki/Honda_RA301) ... not quite as stunning as the earlier RA300 but pretty darn close. I am now headed to my local Whole Paycheck to procure popcorn...

[Martin]

Great subject. will it be inline or angle-winder?

 

"pro-era 1967-ish" suggests it will be inline ? but "ish" leaves the door open.

[Pablo]

Thanks guys. This body is 4.0" WB and 1.5" chassis width. The plan is inline brass rods with a JK D3 bracket EBD (which accommodates the Champion EB with a slight enlargement of the flange hole).

 

New in bag Mabuchi can had surgery to accept a modern 5mm ball bearing in the original gimbal gizmo. Gimbal silver soldered to the can, BB 60/40 soldered to the new hole made by my special tool. Perfect hole, perfect alignment.

 

Professor Motor bushing press fit into the EB, nice n snug. Now I have a nice clean nest and the shaft tool falls through under gravity 

 

[Pablo]

NOS 26D brush holders/post protectors soldered to Champion brass plates, and used pent roof 16D hoods from ancient endbells

 

 

[olescratch]

  One question, is the BB attached from the inside or from the outside of the can?  Those pent roof hardware pieces are getting harder to come by!  What does this special tool look like?  I guess that's another question.

[Tex]

One of my Truescale favorites! You probably know this already but that is a pre-wing version of the RA301 (https://en.wikipedia...iki/Honda_RA301) ... not quite as stunning as the earlier RA300 but pretty darn close. I am now headed to my local Whole Paycheck to procure popcorn...

also, the Honda RA-301 was built for the 1968 F-1 season.....

[Pablo]

  One question, is the BB attached from the inside or from the outside of the can?  Those pent roof hardware pieces are getting harder to come by!  What does this special tool look like?  I guess that's another question.

 

BB is attached from the outside. If I had steadier hands and eyes like an eagle I could solder them in from inside. Outside is simply easier for me. It requires more arm spacers and a little more meat on the shaft. A motor like this usually gets a custom H arm anyway so there is no problem with that.

 

My 16D can hole drilling tool gizmo is a bearing insertion/can straightener tool with a 5mm hole drilled dead center all the way through. Insert BIT into can, insert drill bit into hole, and it makes a perfectly centered hole every time. The brass gimbal gizmo has to be pre-soldered to the can, otherwise it will just spin. I can show a photo if you'd like

[Pablo]

Koford screws attach EB to can. Modern "D" size magnets, zapped, matched and gifted by "Cheater" Wells. 

I took a vintage 20 thou Champion shim and cut off just the parts I wanted to make a proper size hole.

Then removed the anodized factory coating to get bare metal

 

 

JB Welded shims to mags

 

 

Arm will be a custom Havlicek

[Larry Horner]

I love the smell of JB Weld in the morning...

[Alan Dodson]

It's the smell of victory!

[Pablo]

I love the smell of San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf Tarantino's sourdough bread and clam chowder.

 

Mag shimmed sandwiches Krazy Glued in the can, hole is about .545. Setup now goes to Havlicek for a custom arm

[Pablo]

Arm specs will be endbell drive, wire size 29 or 30. Timing approx. 30 degrees.

Stack OD .515-ish and stack length somewhere about .550. Mag lengths are .665  

[Pablo]

Bracket hole enlarged with a Unibit to accept the giant Champion endbell flange.

Track widths 3.0", rears OD 7/8, fronts 3/4. Clearance level 1/16.

 

Dynamic bushings fit the JK bracket well. All jigged up, with some temporary brass pieces to elevate the motor bracket face at 90 degrees

 

[Jaeger Team]

"My 16D can hole drilling tool gizmo is a bearing insertion/can straightener tool with a 5mm hole drilled dead center all the way through. Insert BIT into can, insert drill bit into hole, and it makes a perfectly centered hole every time."
Did you drill that hole on the lathe?

[Pablo]

No lathe here, just an electric drill. After I drill the hole I file it to about 5.2 mm then use a shaft alignment tool with endbell attached to perfectly center the BB before soldering

[Jaeger Team]

No lathe here, just an electric drill. After I drill the hole I file it to about 5.2 mm then use a shaft alignment tool with endbell attached to perfectly center the BB before soldering

Sorry for misunderstanding. I mean: is the 5mm hole in the can straightening tool made by a lathe? I guess it is the only way to be sure it's centered)

[Pablo]

Oh. It most certainly was done in a lathe. If memory serves me correctly, the 2 mm shaft was pushed out and the hole enlarged to 5mm.

I had a buddy do it for me, don't remember who

[Jaeger Team]

Oh. It most certainly was done in a lathe. If memory serves me correctly, the 2 mm shaft was pushed out and the hole enlarged to 5mm.
I had a buddy do it for me, don't remember who

I'm going to find someone doing the same thing for me...that's for sure!
Thank you!

[Pablo]

Don't forget to solder the entire gimbal to the can, otherwise it starts spinning on you and you'll never make a hole. Use silver solder because it melts at a higher temp than 60/40. Then use 60/40 to solder in the BB or bushing so it won't re-melt the silver solder.

 

Make sure whatever BIT you buy is aluminum and fits a vintage D can. On Mabuchi cans you need to squeeze the thingies up top shut - they are in your way. Wrap pliers with tape to avoid scratching the surfaces

[Bill from NH]

I ground two grooves in the top of a 16D can straightener to clear the magnet retainers in Mabuchi cans as well the retaining tabs on the adjustable timing cans from Slotworks & Parma. Saves having to bend or re-bend anything.

[Jaeger Team]

Ready for surgery!

 

[Pablo]

Found the original BIT 5mm gizmo here, post #1:

 

16D Pro Slot "DZ" Special Motor - Pablo's Builds - Slotblog

 

The machinist was dc-65x, of course. Use lots of oil to lube and cool. If the drill bit sticks, reverse the drill rotation

[Jaeger Team]

Found the original BIT 5mm gizmo here, post #1:
 Very cool!
Thanks
16D Pro Slot "DZ" Special Motor - Pablo's Builds - Slotblog
 
The machinist was dc-65x, of course. Use lots of oil to lube and cool. If the drill bit sticks, reverse the drill rotation

Very cool!
Thanks

[Mad Mark]

Who makes your jig wheels/blocks? need those really bad