54 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

They don't make those blocks any more. Sorry.

[Joe Mig]

Looking forward to seeing this complete.
Is True Scale back in business?

My builds usually begin and end with the body. Courtney Smith won this as a race prize and I plan to make it a pro-era 1967-ish race replica.
I started gathering parts possibilities like a wild man
 
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[Pablo]

Looking forward to seeing this complete.
Is True Scale back in business?
 

I was going good until I got a virus that's going around. Just feel drained. I expect to be back at it in 5 days or so.

Right now it's Beef Bouillon soup, Vicks, Popsicles, Kleenex and movies.

 

The raceway that gave this Honda to Courtney probably had no clue what they had. Probably sat on the wall for years.

 

My armature guy is moving so he's tied up for a while. The JK D3 bracket has the "gear guard" 1/16 brass rod brace done.

 

I highly doubt TS is making and selling bodies again. We would know if they were, I think

[MSwiss]

Always add the "I think". Lol

[Pablo]

Thanks for the TS intel, Mike. Good to know.

 

Between winning the war against this respiratory virus, and prepping for a BIG local Flexi event this coming weekend, I'm finally working on the Honda F1 again. Motor setup is in New York getting a custom arm wound, and I got my Hakko 601 hot again 

 

All jigged up for 1/16 level clearance, 3/4" fronts and 7/8" rears. Orange donuts glued and curing. Dynamic bushings in the JK D3 bracket.

First set of inner brass rod rails ready to tack on. Temp spacing gizmo adds .048 rise to the bracket, making the face angle exactly 90 degrees

 

[Pablo]

Bracket and front axle tube connections are stout enough with 3 rails per side.

Maybe one more rail set to add a little more stiffness, then floating body attachments.

Just thinking as I go ......... 

 

[JimR]

Trying to find TrueScale on ebay. Can we get the link? Thanks.

[Larry Horner]

I was able to contact Victor at the TrueScale email address: sales@truescaleproducts.com.

[Pablo]

Thanks Larry 

Rails are done. The fourth set simply adds space. Dynamic bushing steel washer gizmos are done. 

Jig hardware removed for a cleanup and quality check on my flattest block. Smooth sailing

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm: Cobra .050 thick brass tongue custom formed to fit a Parma white .063 flag. Which will soon be dyed with Rit Scarlet Red dye to match the Honda red dot on the Honda RA 301 body 

1/16 X 1" brass sheet trimmed to size at .890" width. Tongue mini-torched with a 5 thou flag spacer for a hair of lift. GL 15/16 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

The loading is being difficult

 

[Mark Onofri]

Page 2

 

[Mark Onofri]

Page 3 April,1966

 

 

[Pablo]

Very cool, thanks Mark 

[Pablo]

Body mounts - sometimes simpler is better. I think pin tubes with no added movement will work fine on this car. Into the tumbler she goes

 

 

And out

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

I've noticed that in most of the F-1 cars, the builder has chosen brass rod as opposed to steel or, steel & brass. Is it personal preference or is there some physics involved ?

[Pablo]

Yes.

[Maximo]

Wow! Another great Pablo precision build.

 

Rock and roll...

[Mark Onofri]

A Clear and concise answer. LMFAO 😆

[Pablo]

The long Pablo answer would be a mile of words and theories. Here is just ONE reason:

 

In order to sandwich wires and rods together, usually short spacers are required to keep the 2 dissimilar metals from being soldered together the entire length. If you don't space them out, you end up with rail sets curled up like a potato chip. A skinny F1 where lateral (rail) space is at a premium simply doesn't have the room for spacing.

[Pablo]

Rough assembly of parts in the right places (clearances, ride height, etc) to punch the pin holes. Now the body is ready for interior and paint.

 

Every chance I get, I use the best modern parts that make the car perform well yet won't offend the elusive "vintage police"      Flag spacers, braid, set screws, axles, body pins, etc. are Koford, MidAmerica, Parma, PCH, you get the idea. I want the car to look and run late 1960's Pro-era, only better  

 

[Don Weaver]

In order to sandwich wires and rods together, usually short spacers are required to keep the 2 dissimilar metals from being soldered together the entire length. If you don't space them out, you end up with rail sets curled up like a potato chip. A skinny F1 where lateral (rail) space is at a premium simply doesn't have the room for spacing.

 

 

Pablo - try this to separate dissimiliar metals when soldering:

 

Take regular household aluminum foil and rub it out flat on a solid surface and cut into strips.  These thinned sheet strips can be placed between the rails you don't want soldered together.  You can fold the strips over the rails to keep them out of the way.

 

I have also done this to control the length of the solder joint due to wicking between adjacent rails.  Using these strips prevents solder flow even if the flux has wicked.  This "masking" technique can be used in other ways as well depending on what you are trying to accomplish.

 

Use a toothpick or something to slightly "push" the rails apart after soldering to remove the aluminum strips.

 

Don 

[Pablo]

"Pablo - try this to separate dissimiliar metals when soldering:"

 

A newbie asks a question and I end up being the newbie? How does that happen? After 20 years and about 8 pages of Slotblog builds, I don't need a lesson on rail soldering management. Please read post #41 and send Mark O. a PM with your advice. Good luck

 

   

[Don Weaver]

It's been nice knowing you, Pablo...

 

 

 

 

P.S.:  Not my real sentiment at the moment

[brnursebmt]

In order to sandwich wires and rods together, usually short spacers are required to keep the 2 dissimilar metals from being soldered together the entire length. If you don't space them out, you end up with rail sets curled up like a potato chip. A skinny F1 where lateral (rail) space is at a premium simply doesn't have the room for spacing.

 

 

Pablo - try this to separate dissimiliar metals when soldering:

 

Take regular household aluminum foil and rub it out flat on a solid surface and cut into strips.  These thinned sheet strips can be placed between the rails you don't want soldered together.  You can fold the strips over the rails to keep them out of the way.

 

I have also done this to control the length of the solder joint due to wicking between adjacent rails.  Using these strips prevents solder flow even if the flux has wicked.  This "masking" technique can be used in other ways as well depending on what you are trying to accomplish.

 

Use a toothpick or something to slightly "push" the rails apart after soldering to remove the aluminum strips.

 

Don 

 

 

Great tips, Don.  I'll be using this in the future!