6 replies to this topic

[Perrotoro]

I joined a local wood track club that in April after being a Carrera home track racer since 2017.  I had minimal wood track experience in the 1980's.  There's 3 or 4 guys in this club that race regionally and podium every race.  I've podium'd once or twice, but typically when one of these guys are marshalling. my best is 379 laps and their bests are high 390's.  

 

These guys are very helpful.  My car is much faster now - at least 95-99% of their lap times, and my driving skill is probably no more than 95% of their skills.  Still, I'd like anyone's opinion on my set-up for the tri-oval track to help me close the gap if possible.

 

Here's my set up:

 

The center chassis and pan are flat.  The Hawk 25 motor is excellent after water break-ins - the armature/Brush contours are good in both directions and shinny clean.  I clean with contact cleaner after each race - this motor has seen 2-3 races.  The car is weighted to the 100gram minimal for the banked tri-oval.  The guide is sanded and the braids flattened with wide pliers.  The gear set is as prescribed - 11t pinion 27t crown - and the mesh is good.  Larger crowns can be used.  

 

The tires shown are 757 diameter, 16 shore,.  I think I've been running larger tires in the races but I must raise the standard of the documentation.  The most experienced guy says he runs large rears.  The 47 minimal clearance is good with these 757 tires.  The car handles well and I get some very good lap times - comparative to the experienced guys - especially on the low lanes.  But, typically one or two offs on the low black lane hurt my chances significantly

 

Note the inside rear pan is nearly touching with the 757 tires.  I also have have 3 plies of armor tape between the chassis/pan juncture to help raise the pan on the low side.  

 

Back in the mid-80's, in low level flexi competitions in South Florida. widening the pan/chassis holes to increase float was practiced on basic level chassis'  but I probably shouldn't have done this with the premium Mossetti Chassis. as this is contributing to the near drag of the left-side pan.  Larger tires can help this obviously, but will raise the COG.  

 

I had flexible wall-mount tape across the chassis/pan gap for damping Saturday afternoon, but the present local consensus is to use fiber tape across the bottom of the entire pan/chassis.  

 

Please offer any suggestions - thanks. I know I'm a rookie, so don't hold anything back.  \

 

Thanks,

David

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Bill from NH]

In the photos, you show a JK Camaro body. Have you also tried the JK Javelin & Mustang to see how they work compared to the Camaro? Have you had any of the more experienced racers drive your car with the current setup to see if they can drive it any faster than you can? I don't know any of your driving styles, but yours could be different than others. Have fun!

[mreibman]

I can't tell 100% from the pictures, but doesn't look like your axle bushings are soldered in. That can make a difference.

 

I would also think the strapping tape you have undeerneath the chassis isn't doing you a lot. You might need it on top as well to tighten the chassis up.

[Perrotoro]

In the photos, you show a JK Camaro body. Have you also tried the JK Javelin & Mustang to see how they work compared to the Camaro? Have you had any of the more experienced racers drive your car with the current setup to see if they can drive it any faster than you can? I don't know any of your driving styles, but yours could be different than others. Have fun!

Yes - other bodies tried, and maybe I don't have enough data as yet to say one might outperform the other.  The experienced guys mostly go for the camaro.  Have you tried the javelin or mustang with better results? 

 

Yes, they've driven my car - quite often and offer suggestions from such.  They can get a better lap time with my car but not always.  I've gotten better time with their car on at least one occasion.  That is not to say I that I expect to consistently get better consistent race laps numbers - just to say I was hoping someone here might see something they'd suggest I try  - based on the pics and description..  

[Perrotoro]

I can't tell 100% from the pictures, but doesn't look like your axle bushings are soldered in. That can make a difference.

 

I would also think the strapping tape you have undeerneath the chassis isn't doing you a lot. You might need it on top as well to tighten the chassis up.

 

I had soldered bushings up to this week but switched to Threadlocker Green as that most of the club including the experienced guys have switched to.  Easier to get a quick flush mount and holds.  The axle slides through the bushings easily.  

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[Bill from NH]

Your car setup is solid. You say in your initial post you started wooden track racing in April. That's 2 1/2 months max. You drive well, but you aren't as experienced as the others. How long have some of them been racing on this trioval? Give yourself more time, you'll improve too. Change won't come overnight & at times you may think you hit a plateau. Just concentrate to be consistent during such a period. I would question how helpful plastic track racing was when racing on routed wood tracks. For me, it wasn't helpful at all. 

[Perrotoro]

Thanks all - much appreciated.