22 replies to this topic

[Larry Horner]

Rick's current project to recreate Gene Husting's first 1/24 scale anglewinder (http://slotblog.net/...glewinder-race/) has inspired me to try my hand at a vintage style version using modern parts. But I thought it would be fun to make it conform to the specs of a contemporary retro anglewinder racing class. Does such a class exist and if so, can someone point me in the directions of where I might find the class specs? I did some scrounging around in the IRRA section but somehow seem to be missing it.

 

One caveat I will be taking is that I will be using a Hawk 6 style motor instead of the sealed can motors mandated by most of the classes today. Since the motor will be an integral part of the chassis, I want something that can be rebuilt.

[Dave Crevie]

Rick's current project to recreate Gene Husting's first 1/24 scale anglewinder (http://slotblog.net/...glewinder-race/) has inspired me to try my hand at a vintage style version using modern parts.

 

Rick, and a few others here, have been inspiring me. too. Up until now, my building has revolved around whatever racing I was currently doing. Now that I can't race anymore, my focus will be on building replicas of cars from the '60's and early '70's. I'll be using methods and techniques I see these guys using, and as much vintage parts as I can find. I want the cars to be authentic.

[Ramcatlarry]

http://www.retroslot...er---flexi.html

 

Alternate motors of YOUR choosing.

[Larry Horner]

Thanks Larry, that is EXACTLY what I need! And in reading the rules, I can see I'll need to take some liberties with Gene's front axle design as these rules require a single straight axle for both front wheels but that's totally doable.

 

Dave, not building to a specific racing class can be kind of freeing so have fun with it and I look forward to seeing some of your creations!

[MSwiss]

Here's the Retro Pro anglewinder race report from the last time they raced them at Piranha. 

 

Probably of not much value as the track is ultra fast, thus the chassis are ultra-lite.

 

http://slotblog.net/...ro-race-report/

[Eddie Fleming]

I built one just for kicks a few years ago. 

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[John Luongo]

nice job, eddie! very clean assembly. i bet she handles like a dream

[Bill from NH]

Appears to be about a mid-70s chassis design, Nice job Eddie!

[Larry Horner]

Yup, that's a beaut ... love the way the pans float in back! I bet this baby handles great.

[Pablo]

I'm not current on SCRRA but I think this may help; Retro Pro regulations:

 

SCRRA 2015 rules & regulations, revised 2021 - SCRRA Retro Racing - Slotblog

[Larry Horner]

Thanks Pablo! And for a bit of behind the scene action, Pablo has been tutoring me on the ins and outs of soldering directly onto a motor can. As soon as I procure some paste flux, we shall see if his teaching skills are any good. 

[Bill from NH]

Larry, hardware stores & home centers should have paste flux. Plumbing suppliers too.

[old & gray]

Larry, hardware stores & home centers should have paste flux. Plumbing suppliers too.

 

I'll second that. I've had good luck with paste flux for plumbing. Aggressive enough for copper water pipes but water soluble so it cleans up easily.  

[Eddie Fleming]

Removed by me.

[Larry Horner]

Thanks for the info guys!

 

So in reading thru both the Retro and SCRRA class specs, I'm going to go with the former as it allows me to use my Hawk 6 motor and the latter does not. In fact looking at the race report Mike posted, you can see that every single car is using a Hawk 6 style minican motor. I'm also assuming these motors are probably all running Big Dog arms and the cars are using the minimum 790 tires. One last piece of info is that the majority of these cars are running 9/43 gearing. Now my car is obviously going to be a lot heavier than those ultralight beauties but this does give me a lot of great info to use as a starting point.

 

And with that said (drum roll), I am flying to Detroit tomorrow to help a friend relocate to Seattle. I absolutely love cross country trips but thanks goodness the Sturgis rally is over! So this post is going on hold for a bit but that is actually a good thing. Why you ask, well because right now I want to sit back and enjoy Rick's build!

[Ramcatlarry]

FYI: Most of the Earlier Vintage rules required a solid front axle.  I think PDL posted the dating era of when the older cars went to floppy independent fronts in the early to mid 1970's.  These early cars raced on tracks that had more humps and bumps compared to the modern ultra smooth tracks.  The modern Retro Pro rules went for a very LOW minimum weight.  This has proven to create fragile chassis that tended NOT to survive very much wall contact.  Flat tracks always favor heavier cars anyway, so I would consider adopting the more universal minimum of 100 grams or more.

[Bill from NH]

We never have too much information. One never know when some of that information will come in handy.

[MSwiss]

Thanks Pablo! And for a bit of behind the scene action, Pablo has been tutoring me on the ins and outs of soldering directly onto a motor can. As soon as I procure some paste flux, we shall see if his teaching skills are any good. 

Been meaning to ask.

 

Why is paste flux a requirement?

 

If I have the ability to thoroughly clean the area afterwards, which is about 99% of the time, I use acid flux.

 

My local wing guru, who is the nicest guy in the world, freely lends out cars to guys for the regional races and when I see him in the pits with the paste syringe, installing the motor, I spend my time race directing, holding my breath, hoping these lesser drivers stay out of any medium to large crashes, because I know there is a good chance the motor will come out.

[Pablo]

Good question, and it falls on me. The spirit in which I suggested Aero paste to Larry was based on his concept of a vintage anglewinder/retro pro creation.

Where style and shine is more important than a working race car.

 

If he plans to run it hard and play with gear ratios of course I'd go with acid. I suggested Aero because acid can do bad things to a shelf queen, no matter how much you try and clean up.

 

In fact my actual suggestion was tin both surfaces with acid, clean up, then use Aero for the final attachment.

[Bill from NH]

Paste flux "stays-put" better than acid flux when you hit it with a hot iron. Would I use paste flux for chassis building? No, unless the chassis had only brass joints. You could also use liquid rosin flux.

[Larry Horner]

I'll also add that Steve Okeefe used paste as well because he didn't want acid splatter buggering up the chrome plating on the motor can. But per Pablo's suggestion, I will tin the can first with acid but heavily mask the rest of the can and wash everything thoughly afterwards. I've always use acid so this will be a new adventure for me. Speaking of adventures, I just got off the plane and gotta say the Detroit airport looks a lot better than I remember it!

[Richie]

Here is one I did a long time ago. It was pretty much what they were running at Buena Park for a while

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[Bill from NH]

Good build Richie! It would still be competitive if a brass chassis class was run.