21 replies to this topic

[Zapf]

The front wheels on my Riggen (?) Womp are neither set screwed nor threaded. Pressed on? Glued? How can I remove them without damaging them? 

 

Thanks.

 

Craig

[Cheater]

Craig,

 

Post a picture if you can please.

[chasbeeman]

Only a custom-made gear puller IMO. The aluminum chassis is not very sturdy to begin with. I damaged my Riggen in the process due only having basic hand tools.

[Zapf]

Thank you for the replies.
 
Here is a photo, Cheater.
 

 
Chasbeeman, I have a wheel puller, but the center pin is maybe a bit wider than the 1/8" axle. Maybe I can rig it somehow. The wheel is aluminum, so I think the pressure could damage it. Do you know if they are glued or just tightly pressed?
 
I may be left with just cutting the axle to remove the wheels.

[MSwiss]

Have you tried heat?

[Zapf]

Not yet, MSwiss. I have a few ways to apply heat - heat gun, soldering iron, small butane torch. Have you tried it?  What did you use? 

 

Thanks.
 
Craig

[MSwiss]

I've never had a Riggen Womp.

 

Why are you trying to remove them? Are you trying to save them?

[Zapf]

Good question, MSwiss. 

 

I will replace them with different wheels/tires - probably 5-40 axles and wheels. I'm only trying to save them in anticipation I might need them for something in the future. Maybe not a very good reason?   

 

Craig

[Zapf]

The whole chassis was in poor shape. I pick up these things on eBay just to see if I can restore them to be functional. I'll probably end up scrapping this chassis for parts and non-removable front wheels are not very useful parts.

[MSwiss]

I'm just not sure if a torch will ruin them.

[John Luongo]

Lacking a wheel retention collar, set screw, or threaded wheel nut, these could be pressed on for one time use. They may not be reusable.

 

Splitting the wheel along the axle centerline may permit you to remove the wheel to save the axel.

 

Interesting project though. Best of luck.

[Zapf]

Thanks John Luongo, I think you are right.  I tried the torch MSwiss with no effect.  As John says, may be just one time use installed at the factory otherwise they would have used some sort of removable retention device.   

 

I ended up cutting the axle to remove the wheels.  Using an arbor press and a lot of force I was able to push the axle a little ways back through the wheel.  The end of the axle looks like it may have been soldered, not sure.  There was no way I could have generated enough force to pull the wheel off the axle.

[John Luongo]

good job. after you fit a replacement front axel and wheels, clean and straighten the chassis. it may be a really fun car to drive.

[Zapf]

I had never really heard of womp cars until quite recently.  Now I have picked up several in various condition and replaced parts where needed - guides wheels, tires, motors.  Simple, yet fun to put together and fun for sure to drive.

[Lone Wolf]

Craig, I'm not sure there is a way to remove them without mutilation.

 

I must have 20 different size pullers here I've collected over the years, even some home made ones.

 

I tried all different combinations.

 

I never did not have any luck getting these apart.

 

These things are really on there.

 

They don't want to budge.

 

I think the quality of the wheels is quite low and never meant to come off unscathed.

 

In the end your solution was the correct one.

[chasbeeman]

Tightly press fit, I was successful 50 years ago by vise and channel locks with a twisting motion to pull them off of axle. If you have a lathe they can be bored to 1/8 and drill/tapped for set screws.

[Kim Lander]

since you will be replacing them put them in a vice grip and use a nail punch to hammer the axel out.

[Bill Seitz]

Another problem with aluminum on steel is that there is a high degree of electrolytic corrosion between these two materials. The aluminum will become almost permanently seized to the steel with time and moisture/humidity. If you were able to remove the wheels, the bore will very likely be permanently damaged (oversize) and unusable. I think Mike Swiss has the right idea - I'd try heat, and a higher wattage soldering iron should be adequate heat source.

[Samiam]

Heat plus PB-Blaster.

[Ramcatlarry]

Technically, ALL "womp" chassis are either steel or brass from PARMA (now back in production).  Those Riggen aluminum chassis may look similar to a real womp and other modernized versions of the 3" wheelbase chassis, but they are not and are older and weaker.

 

The timeframe of these Riggen cars would have possibly used Loctite to hold the wheels to the axle and THEN applying a torch WOULD have allowed them to come off.  Since you tried that, I am sure they must have been (stupidly) pressed on.

[Jaeger Team]

[quote name="Ramcatlarry" post="853474" timestamp="1714954744"]Technically, ALL "womp" chassis are either steel or brass from PARMA (now back in production).  Those Riggen aluminum chassis may look similar to a real womp and other modernized versions of the 3" wheelbase chassis, but they are not and are older and weaker.

"The original Riggen 1/32 scale inline (brass) chassis was issued in 1969 and remained the same until 1974 when the company and trademark were sold to Gayla Industries of Sun Valley, California.

Gayla looked to lower the cost of their cars and began using aluminum instead of brass for their chassis.
When Gayla Industries tanked in the early 1980s, REH of Cincinnati purchased all the remaining inventories.

The Parma "Womp Womp" always used a different, larger, and wider chassis that had nothing to do with the Riggen model, and if it is possible that Parma may have marketed cars using the Riggen/Gayla aluminum chassis, that would have been for a relatively short time, and only as an expedient to increased business."
(Philippe de Lespinay)

[Rob Voska]

Cut the axle in half in the center.

Deburr ends

Soak in penetrating oil.

Push them out in a small press / vice.