54 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Thanks Pablo for looking. I bet I will find them in time.

 

You would think LASCM would have found a first gen box and not a left over box. But maybe they never found one either.

 

Still would like to see the drop arm on that car at the museum. I have enough parts to build another P4 chassis but this time with the drop arm like on the flyer. 

 

 

Here is what I see here. I will be hard pressed to fit the guide under the nose of the short body. Then I remembered there is a longer Dynamic P4 body.

 

I will mock that up to see if it looks like the space between the front of the guide and the front of the body. Like the art work on the flyer above. This combination of parts makes for a .150'' longer wheelbase too. No matter how you slice it. 

[Clyde Romero]

The one for this car is an black inline gear with a silver edge. 

 

Like to find a source for those tiny axle nuts too. 

 

Who amongst us makes decals? ..... and should it get a painted  interior with driver ?

 

Screenshot (2113).png

 

 

I have Ferrari decals if you want some 

[Martin]

Thanks Clyde, are they the number 1 like this?

 

 

 

Been looking for these forever. Happy to compensate you.

[Martin]

This what I have surmised. 

1st Gen RTR P4 cars had the long body and the multi piece bolt together drop arm. Exactly as the flyer shows.

Shown in pics below.

 

 

 

2nd Gen RTR P4 cars had the newer short body and now using the Bandit one piece drop arm, which fits the wheelbase and keeps the guide under the body.

 

Oh, and we ran out of small boxes so we will stick the 2nd Gen cars in the box we just had made for the new brass angle winder cars.

[Flathead]

Has that one been brush painted Martin?

[Martin]

Yes Lee, not by me on this #23 red one, I picked it up along the way. 

Back in the day all my cars were brush painted, even my Humbrol metallic blue M8 as seen in my avatar pic.

Seen below another Ferrari body that was my spare back in 1969 ish.

 

 

Looking at this body here, I remind myself I should fix the damage and freshen it up a bit. All my race cars had that metallic blue.

[Flathead]

Oh ok #23 car is a bitza, I thought you were suggesting that it was an early factory car.

[Mark Onofri]

The last two (2) photos are what it had when I aquired it. Not that it's the way it came from the factory.

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[Martin]

Correct Lee #23 is not a factory car, but I believe it has the same components as the early (1st gen) factory car. As shown by the flyer artwork. 

 

Mark, I am confused. You show a later factory car as it would come as a  RTR from Dynamic. 

Why do think it is not?

Here is a saved pic from an auction that shows a factory car (in red) but went for too much as was sold as a lot.

 

 

In addition the body part number list shows 1 part number (507) Dynamic used that part number for both short and long P4 bodys. 

 

Here are the 2 variants side by side that show the difference in wheelbase. Which is about .150" or about 4mm.

 

[Mark Onofri]

Let me rephrase that.
Wether or not it came from the factory like this, IDK 😶. I realize that everything on the internet is true, 🧐hence the statement.

[Mark Onofri]

It would probably make more sense to show all three (3). But, it's time for a fuzzy blanket milk and cookies nap.😴

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[gluebomb]

The long Dynamic P4 is really swoopy looking. Had a trashed one that came on the brass anglewinder years ago.

I've a couple of re-pops of the shorter one, Truescale and Booth i think, but does anyone do the long body ?

Martin, I really like the brushed Humbrol on your cars - can you still get Humbrol enamels over there ? They disapeared a few years ago here...

[Martin]

Yes Simon, still around in the U.S. sometimes rebadged as Revell 

Enamel Paints

Humbrol’s iconic tin of oil-based Enamel has set the standard for modelling and hobbies for decades, providing a fantastic finish to all your projects, both indoors and outdoor

 

Truescale makes a perfect replica of the short P4 not sure about the long body though.

[Martin]

Some pics to show the difference between the 2 cars, the long body a fat 5/8'' (16mm) longer in the tail and the chassis a strong 1/8''

(3mm) longer in wheelbase.

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[Pablo]

Gotta love those GE motors   

[Martin]

Gotta give Dynamic credit for trying something different, did find this artwork on a couple of variants.

 

 

Also found this pic of the decals I wish I could buy. It came with the Ferrari P3 kit. 

 

[Pablo]

Love it. May I have 3 of each, please?   

[Martin]

I would buy half a dozen myself . 

What is the best printer to print this kind of decal ? 

[Paul Menkens]

 

What is the best printer to print this kind of decal ? 

How would you print the white? I don't believe the ALPS printers have been made for some time.

[Bill from NH]

Paul, I'm not a decal maker, but I believe there is both clear & white decal making paper.

[Dave Crevie]

There is white decal paper. But it makes it tough to trim the logo if there is a colored boarder. You end up with a white "halo" around the outside. I made the STP logos on white paper, and had to go back with a red sharpie to cover the white boarder. Then add the thin black boarder with another sharpie.

 

 

 

 

Roundels are easier. You can use whatever colored sheet that matches the color of the roundel you want. In any case, make sure to add a thin black trim line around the outside so you end up with a true circle. 

 

                                Add trim line

 

 

A bunch of years ago I had to make two decals of this logo for a Thomas Flyer static model I built for a contest. I worked out the artwork in Photoshop, then sent it to a model railroad decal maker who had an ALP printer. Turned out good, but I didn't win anything anyway. 

 

[Tim Wilkins]

Pattos Place P4 painted by Caveman Products

 

 

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[Paul Menkens]

One way to get around the white "halo" would be to print a border around the trim line that matches the paint color EXACTLY, but that would be hard to do and get perfect.

[Flathead]

A friend of mine that prints his own decals gets around the problem of trimming number roundels by using the correct size paper hole punch, I would think printing an oversized ring around the number would help align the punch.

[Dave Crevie]

One way to get around the white "halo" would be to print a border around the trim line that matches the paint color EXACTLY, but that would be hard to do and get perfect.

 

The halo comes from the action of the cutting of the white film. The sharp edge of the scissors scrape away a tiny bit of the printed surface, leaving the white behind. I have tried all sorts of methods to trim white decal film, for car models, railroad models, and aircraft models. The best method is to carefully trim around the boarder with a brand new number 11 X-acto blade. Die cutting is by far the worst. It compresses the film and backing paper, and in doing so, scrapes off much more of the printed surface. 

 

The easiest way to solve the problem is to print a black boarder around the outer edge of the roundel. After the roundel is cut out and applied to the body, go back with a black sharpie and color over the white halo. (wait until it's dried)