27 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

got bored and felt like tinkering. I saved this hacked up super old classic chassis that should have been tossed out (I dont throw out any slot car stuff) and pieced this together.

tyco motor with I think some sorta different arm? thats also epoxied. the other tyco motor I have has blue lams and green arm wire. this is a very early classic chassis that doesnt have a drop arm recess so it doesnt sit flush with the bottom of the chassis so I made my own for max low cg. parts bin junk wheels and tires. E6000 currently drying on the pin tube body mounts.

[Mad Mark]

previous owner didn’t think the already flimsy beer can chassis wasn’t light enough so copious amounts speed holes where added

[Ramcatlarry]

Silver commutator says Bonner to me.....3 VDC rated in the 1960's.

[Mad Mark]

Silver commutator says Bonner to me.....3 VDC rated in the 1960's.

It’s golden color I just have exposure turned up.

[don.siegel]

Maybe a Pittman DC65X arm - pretty common conversion at the time. Pittman arms have a typical "cap" around the wire connections, but looks like there's some epoxy on top so hard to tell. 

 

Don 

[Dave Crevie]

The motor does appear to be Bonner with the four crossways screws. If you can get it running I'd leave it as you found it. Some kind of history there.

[Mad Mark]

The motor does appear to be Bonner with the four crossways screws. If you can get it running I'd leave it as you found it. Some kind of history there.

Its a tyco 951 or 952 not sure which. one is 6v and the other is 12v. Takes a bit of voltage to get it to spin up so guessing a 6v?

[don.siegel]

I had to look this up again, can't seem to remember which is which

 

Inline

901 - 6V

902 - 12V

 

Sidewinder

951 - 6V

952 - 12V

 

Don 

[Mad Mark]

Well whatever volts it is it runs terrible. is very slow and get super hot after like 5 laps on a flat track. these old non can motors seem to be hit or miss with me. They either run perfect with no fiddling or can barely make a lap.

[Mark Onofri]

Now I have to go to the slot car crypt.Like the Who said:
" I know what it means but"
PS: I've got six or twelve replacement arms that are genuine Tyco.Probably(6)six volt and (6) twelve volt. If you need one,pm me.

[Mark Onofri]

Here's the factory propaganda.(third photo)
In the second picture,(top to bottom)
6 volt Tyco,3 volt Bonner,
?volt KKN?
The shaft is of a much larger diameter and, longer on the Bonner than the other.
{As illustrated in the first photo}.
PS: the photos posted in reverse order so, the description might seem weird after I eddditted it

Attached Images

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[Mark Onofri]

Can you post a picture of the other side of the chassis? I'd like to see how it's mounted.

[Brian Czeiner]

The very roots of hot rodding. Build what you have. 

[Mad Mark]

Can you post a picture of the other side of the chassis? I'd like to see how it's mounted.

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks for the picture.
I'll re-post the propaganda, didn't realize it was that blurry. Thought it was just me.

[Mad Mark]

put my other motor in which is a 12v. not sure if this one has mods too because the magnet is different. with the square magnet the stock phenolic brush holder wont fit and the spring post is tight against the magnet. I took a messed up brush holder and filed it down and rigged up a new spring post and modded a mura motor type brush spring to fit.

Comparison with previous motor:


Also went down a tooth on the pinion to a 9. spur is higher 30s havent counted it yet

[Dave Crevie]

There sure was a lot of "kit bashing" going on way back then.

[Ramcatlarry]

Kit bashing-  JC Whitey catalog, you could find all the parts to put a cadilac motor in ANYTHING.....

[Mad Mark]

so tested this new motor and it does the same thing. barely goes. wondering if track voltage just doesnt jive with these or something.

[don.siegel]

No, that is kind of curious. They're not speed demons, but should run okay on 12 volts, and they don't need a lot of amps either. Maybe the magnet needs a rezap? 

 

Don 

[Gary Bluestone]

If it still doesn't go good after re-zapping the magnet, test the winding segments to determine each one's resistance  and that they are all unbroken.

[Don Weaver]

Check the windings first before spending money on re-zapping....

[Mad Mark]

What is strange is it spins up fine on power supply. guess has something to do with being under load.

[dc-65x]

Hi Mark,

 

If you removed the magnet from an "iron" magnet motor it will pretty much kill it until it is remagnetized.

 

Here is a link to an experiment I did on the subject:

 

Zapping Pittman magnets

[Mad Mark]

Hi Mark,
 
If you removed the magnet from an "iron" magnet motor it will pretty much kill it until it is remagnetized.
 
Here is a link to an experiment I did on the subject:
 
Zapping Pittman magnets

 

That's interesting. I did have to remove the magnet because you cant remove the arm without taking off a plate that sandwiches it.