34 replies to this topic

[pn6]

What kind of benders are available and what are you using? Need help.

 

Thanks,

 

Paul 

[Larry Horner]

RGEO makes a nice one. I have one of these and like it when I want larger radius bends or bends over 90 degrees:

https://rgeoproducts...ng-machine-std/.

 

And DU-BRO also makes one that is good for really sharp exact bends:

https://www.dubro.co...IxtfVv1EVZm7MRc.

 

But sometimes I find the best bends come from a pair of needle nose pliers.

 

Hope that helps,

Larry

[Bill from NH]

The benders Larry mentioned work well for solid rods but not necessarily for all tubing bends. For round tubing, I think it was Steve Okeefe who posted on here to cut two 1"-1 !/2" pieces of the next bigger tubing than you want to bend. Slip then on the piece you want to bend, spaced about 1/8" apart on the area you want to bend. Hold one still & bend the other piece the angle you want. Slip the two cut pieces off & you should have the bend you want without a lot of tube collapsing. I personally haven't used Steve's procedure but coming from Steve, I have little doubt that it works

 

Slight angles in square tubing can be bent using hand pliers without tubing wall collapse.

 

When scratchbuilding I would confine my bends to piano wire & brass rods & limit those using tubing.

[Martin]

If I have more than a few parts to make. I have made my benders so the parts are consistent. This bender is made from a block of 1/2'' aluminum and has removable 1/8'' pins (axles) so I can change the design, but keep the hinge to guide the same distance.

Not hard to make if you have a drill press.

 

 

 

These are the 3 variations I bent on the same bending tool.

I typically bend Brass, Nickle or Piano wire. In the order of easy to hard to bend. 

 

 

As Larry suggests plier's work.

If its a one off part a good range of jewelers pliers will do the job.

 

[zipper]

Missing these, a dentist's first weapon to bend orthodontic wires.

 

[pn6]

Martin I have a drawer that looks just like that. You can never have enough tools but my wire bending skills have diminished over time so I thought a bender would be nice. Thank you all for the suggestions. I think I'll make one like Martins. I think I have some 1/8 dowel pins somewhere too. If that fails I like the look of that Dubro bender.

 

 

Paul

[Martin]

Would love to see what you are working on Paul. 

 

I think I may have to buy the Du-Bro tubing bender, that looks like a handy tool. Thanks a lot Larry, now I want another tool.

 

For under $20 how can you go wrong. 

 

https://www.amazon.c...HOK/ref=sr_1_1?

dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dey5Wr4SfLacRvkTEMzmvrmwF3llTyTk0WA9FsjYXCSYF

 

This bender looks interesting too, I like my tooling to be made of metal not plastic. Check this one out. Although I do not see how it bends tubing without collapsing 

 

https://www.amazon.c...9HeWVvsCDC0OvfH

[pn6]

I’m actually trying to bend up some motor clips for my LaCuc’s I have 3 with no clips. They are really hard to find so I thought I’d bend some up. I made a jig and now it’s just getting the bends right.

I am working on something else as well. I’ll post pics here soon as it is sort of scratch built..

[Bill from NH]

YouTube has a bunch of videos on different benders. Have you looked to see if they have anything for making the motor clips & your other item?

[pn6]

Not yet Bill. My other item doesn't need any bending....

[Martin]

They do come up on ebay, expect to pay $20. You need a #4809 but be careful I noticed there is a seller on there now that has cut down and modified #4409 which may work, but who knows.

Hell I make you one for $40 Just kidding around   I may have an extra I will have to look.

 

#4409 is the more common sidewinder motor clip

 

#4809 is for Cuc and all other cars using that same chassis.

 

If you or I do not find one I will make a tool to stamp them. It will be something like this but obviously different.

This is a tool I made to replace the plastic motor clip on the GRC Spitfire.

With a tool this wide I can stamp 3 or 4 at a time. Fulfilling world wide need in one pressing   

 

[pn6]

I’ve been on the hunt for these clips for awhile now and have seen what you’ve mentioned. I’ve only found one I’d consider buying but yes it’s just too much money. I’d rather waste some flat brass bending them up than paying a ridiculous price.
I didn’t think of a stamp!! That’s a great idea! You’ll be saving the world from taping in their motors and cornering the market on this rare piece!! I have one original if you need a pattern.

[Martin]

I am out of town today, but tomorrow I will look into what I have 

[Martin]

Im Backkkkk, with good news and bad news.

 

Bad news I do not have any extra #4809 clips. Good news (I think) I have several chassis that need them too, so i have incentive to make them.

 

I will pop one off a chassis that has the clip and think about this stamping tool.

[pn6]

I’m glad you’re back and thinking about the stamp! It would be so nice to have a proper clip for these cars. I’ve used up my supply of 1/4 x .016 flat brass and only have one that’s even close to replicating the original. This will be great! Is it done yet????

[Martin]

Sample # 4809 is in hand and will look for a suitable chunk of material to make the die. 

The brass is 1/4'' wide and as you say .016" thick. I will make sure I have that in house. Hang in there 

[Jay Guard]

Martin:

I think you'll have a pretty nice demand for those, better stock up on that brass strip! 

[Martin]

I had a few bits of old stock but my local hardware shop had 3 one footers in the K&S rack. They also had it in 3' lengths 

 

Squared up the aluminum block and started laying out the negative part of the die. 

 

 

 

[Martin]

Not a great pic, sorry. 

Next step will be making the male part. I had some lead stips I had saved from the face mask nose bridges. Perfect for a couple of tests stampings.

Pretty happy with the part dimensionally but until I press with the .016" brass I won't know what adjustments I will need to get the snap tight fit between the motor and chassis.

More progress to come when I get more free time.

 

 

[pn6]

Thats looking great Martin! I can't wait to get some of the finished products.  Jay I think you're right about the market for these clips. Out of the 4 cars I've bought lately only one had the clip! 

[Martin]

Enough success for one day.  The die works as planned and the clip holds the motor to the chassis as Cox designed.  

The part of the male die that hangs on to the chassis needs a bit of a polish as I see some scratches from the die. I missed that.

BTW the radius is generated from two 1/8" axles pits. I drilled and reamed the holes then TIG tacked them in the steel die then milled the sides and bottom to leave the part of the radius you see now.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

If anyone needs a clip for a 26D motor in a Cuc frame, Brian McPherson in Ohio made a bending jig 15-20 years ago. If he still has the jig, he could probably make one. He doesn't post on Stotblog much anymore, but he uses Facebook.

[Martin]

Hey Bill, I thought that the subject of a IFC chassis with a 26D would come up. If there was enough demand I would make that die too.

It needs a bearing adaptor as the 26D motor is 1/4" shorter. 

But if Brian has them I will move on to the next project.

I do love making tools 

Now if someone can figure out how to stamp those super skinny numbers 4809R. R being for reproduction. Any ideas ?

[n.elmholt]

Great work :-)

Niels, DK

[Bill from NH]

I don't know if Brian still has the jig after 20 years with a couple of house moves. Cox used two aluminum adapters, a thin one for the front, a thicker one for the rear. If i recall correctly, some people have just made an even thicker one for the rear. Instead of stamping  4908R on your 16D clips, use a hand engraver instead. You may sell a few dozen, but it's probably still a low volume item.