31 replies to this topic

[carkrazd]

If you happen to have the build sheet for the K&B Dragster and you are willing to photo copy it and forward it please let me know.
:shock: I Got very lucky last week and found one still in bags (no box ) and no paper work.

Thanks Dana G

[edworth]

If this is the plated, brass, sling-shot style, I have a frame too, but no docs either. Would appreciate same. Would like to compare the frames. Does yours have wheels?

[idare2bdul]

You want a build sheet for the K&B Dragster? Didn't you guys play with erector sets when you were kids? Come to think of it my erector sets weren't put together right either. Good luck.

[edworth]

Perhaps Mike is mixing up Russkit with K&B...

[idare2bdul]

Quote

If you happen to have the build sheet for the K&B Dragster and you are willing to photo copy it and forward it please let me know.
I Got very lucky last week and found one still in bags (no box ) and no paper work.

edworth was wondering if I mixed up Russkit with K&B? I think the confusion might be from the quote above by Karkrazed

I have a chrome dragster frame that memory says was a K&B but it is different from the Russkit.
The hot tip back in the day was to take magnesium and make a slightly different frame that had each side as a single plate eliminating the heavy sideplate of the stock Pittman or Ram motor. Ball bearings were incorporated on both motor and axle.
My freind Doug Bilyeu made a small version of that chassis to fit under a Ford GT body powered by a Pittman 65 for a drag class for sportscars. When NHRA cancelled the class so did the slot drags

[edworth]

Quote

hot tip back in the day was to take magnesium and make a slightly different frame that had each side as a single plate eliminating the heavy sideplate of the stock

For those that didn't go the full route, there was this approach to weight reduction.
As found modifications, from an indy sprint style. May have been a figure 8 because it was geared 1.8 to 1 as found.


Notice the use of epoxy to keep the whole thing from coming apart. Not real clear but if you look carefuly you can see the rear axle housing is cut-up. Yes, it is really delicate. I only run this on a track alone, as it can't take any impact.


Notice 4 laminate layers were cut to remove weight where the magnetic field was not considered much use.

[carkrazd]

Sorry, No Confusion Here.
The chassis I have is aluminum with elongated holes and a 7 3/4 wheel base.
Very close to, and almost the same as the russkit chassis( anodized blue )
The question is- the strip of aluminum to be bent for the body of the car.
After 23 + years as a body tech, I know more often than not you can only bend thin aluminum one time without causing metal fatique.
Most of my erector sets where full scale cars and they worked fine when I finished them.
In fact people even trusted them enough to put their families in them. So with that in mind~
this is still the build sheet I'm looking for.
Thanks and Have a Great Day
carkrazd

[TSR]

We have it, but i can't get to it for a while. If no one comes up with it within a couple of weeks, please ring my bell...

[Russkid]

I have the mint dragster with the pre-bent strip. I also have the K&B head and roll bar piece. Has the K&B drag wheels and tires all around. There is actually a little air scoop over the motor. Neat. Maybe I could trace a side profile and mail it to you. Sprung drop arm, prass weight in rear between frame rails.

[carkrazd]

Thanks Guys
The aluminum has the hood scoop, but it's flat (not the scoop, the aluminum strip.)
There is no mounting hardware in the bags, and no grooves to hold it on the edge of the frame rails. The bags were sealed ( Never opened before Me)
When the frame is bolted to the pittman 85- the rails are not wide enough to hold the aluminum body part.(overlap )
Now you understand why this build sheet is important to me.
As you all know mint vintage cars don't come around every day ( not you p- who has the most toys) so great care must be taken to build them right. Some how I don't think the part was meant to be a cut to fit. :shock:
Thanks Dana G

[carkrazd]

Bob can you post pics of your car.
I think in the day only Three of this type of chassis were made .
K&B , russkit , and I think international made one.
I'am sure P has all 10 I mean all 3.
Thanks carkrazd[/img]

[edworth]

This was the "K&B wire frame", I was referring to. Nickel or chrome plated brass. Any thoughts?

[carkrazd]

This chassis is a K&B drag chassis also .
I'am not sure when they came out.(auto world cat) 66,66 1/2 ,67 do not show this chassis.
I have seen it in the E.J. hobbies cat.
I also have two of them but mine do not have the top rear loop in the chassis .
It looks like it was never there (no broken welds or chrome)
have you seen the The aluminum one.
I just got me compaq up and running so I can't post any pics for you yet.
Carkrazd

[Prof. Fate]

Hi Dana.

I saw the frame on the '63 era yellow cards on a Rack in california in August 63. As I wasn't in country earlier, then I cannot say more. But it was part of that line in shops that K&B had with various early vac bodies, building parts and so on.

I have never owned one of the frames. But think they are cool.

Fate

[TSR]

Ed,
This chassis is one of 3 different ones made by Autorama, a company later sold to K&B. They are nickel plated and this one is designed for the DC85 lump. They were not very strong, especially the smallest one. Often one would open the packaging and the frame would fall apart as the blistering was the only thing that retained the broken bits.
The larger one as you show was the strongest of the 3.
You can see all 3 on the back of this picture, with the K&B and Russkit rails on front:



Regards,

[Russkid]

Carkrazd - I will email the images of it directly to you as I can't afford any web space.
On mine, the aluminum does overlap the frame rails nicely but not too much.

[Russkid]

OK - Let's see if this works -





It works if you keep your images at a reasonable size. 72DPI is great, but you need to reduce the huge format of 17" wide down to 6 or 7" max.

[carkrazd]

Thats the one.
Thanks P & Bob.
I went to see a friend of mine here in Vegas today.
Some of you that came to the convention in Vegas and in AZ. may remember Mark Alton.
Mark's a great guy who builds and collects vintage cars also. He is deaf,
so racing with him is great- he does not complain about much.
Mark has the K&B aluminum dragster also. We looked at the pics of your cars and wonder if the brass weight is to be placed at the front of the car???
His car was already built when he got it and the weight is in the front.
The body of his car is bent to the chassis shape and hooks around the brass weight in the front and rear of the chassis. (clamp fit ) no hardware.
His front axel is different also. How do we get the bearings to stay in the front wheels?
That's all the questions for now- sure there will be more later- till then
carkrazd

[Russkid]

Thanks Dana, I will change the weight on my car. I have not tried to restore it yet. I am glad I found a built one for a resomable price instead of having to pay more for a mint kit.

[edworth]

Quote

How do we get the bearings to stay in the front wheels?

Dana,

Wheel to bearing: Attaching typically is a Loctite situation when right, or a light press fit when tight. Blue grade should work. If the wheels are aluminum and real tight, you could heat the wheel(careful not to melt or warp, more like seriously warming the wheel) and without burning yourself, drop them in. I think I like the careful press fit better. Sound support of the wheel and pressing squarely around the entire outer rim or race of the bearing, not anywhere else.

Bearing to Axle: Many standard slot axles are too undersized (.123) or so. The proper ones for this should be a nice fit with no wobble(.124 - .125) and set with Loctite. If they seem too loose, perhaps you don't have the 'factory' axle. If you need a replacement look for shaft brass (.125) and check it for suitability. K&S brass assortments are found at Hobby & Hardware stores. (yes, even found at the Homely Despot).

[carkrazd]

Now... This is why we are all here... great people and great help! Thanks Ed for you time and idea's. Start now and save for a trip to Cal. for the convention next year, because I'd sure like to see you there. We need to get all of these great minds in one room at one time. (gonna need a huge room) I know I can always count on many of you for good solid information.
Thanks All-
carkrazd

[edworth]

Dana, glad to provide a little assistance. I may make it out that way.

[Gary Bluestone]

Somehow I ran across this thread and I have some info that may help or may be years too late. I believe the dragster in question is the K&B, Model Rama, Pit Stop Dragmaster kit. When new this kit was supplied with all necessary parts but "LESS MOTOR and GEARS" which was printed on the box lid ! There was included ,a tube of glue, which believe it or not, was meant to fasten the bearings into the blind hole in the front wheels and to fasten the axle into the bearing. Once in a while these front wheels appear seperately, for sale on epay , with the glue still present on the card.
Since the width of the rails could change depending on which motor the customer chose, the aluminum strip may be too wide. I recall shimming the frame rails on the one I built, out to the size of the strip, I may have added some laminations to the X503 motor I used. The brass weight does go in the front and the aluminum is meant to be hand formed around it and formed to contour to the frame rail tops, and again belive it or not, the aluminum was supposed to be glued to the frame rails. I decided to go with brass gears to keep with the vintage style but then I built it for show. Gb

[Horsepower]

I wonder what happened to Ed Worthington? He hasn't made a post since November of 2008.

[Gator Bob]

Bump ....

 

Wanted:

1. A picture posted of the International rail. 
2. Info on anodized colors offered by each manufacturer.
3. To purchase one of the short K&B 'wire frame' drag chassis as shown in post #12 above.

Thanks in advance.

 

Gary, It looks like Ed last stopped by on - Aug 20 2012 03:17 PM