52 replies to this topic

[M. Lovelace]

What is the best stuff to use to make spray glue? I have my new track running and would like to know what works best.

[Rick]

Naphtha is the best, BAR NONE! VM&P, buy it in a five gallon can, will last for a long time and also best to clean track with...

OOPS, PS: BTW buy the silver "Spraymaster" spray bottle, they last the very best of any I tried over the years. I think Lowes or Home Depot now carries them, too.

[M. Lovelace]

What do you mix with the naphtha?

[Rick]

I would mix a complete* bottle of medium glue to a quart of naphtha. I always had a good racing surface and would lightly spray the entire track a mist coat and then give the turns the second coat.

* Turn the bottle upside down, poke a hole in the bottom, and let it sit for an hour so it completely drains into the spray bottle. Add half the naphtha and shake the hell out of it until it is ALL dissolved, then add the rest of the naphtha and shake again.

[M. Lovelace]

Thanks for the info.

[4laneron]

I use Coleman fuel and STP on my home track, one part STP to five parts Coleman fuel.

[Slapshot]

Added notes:

Items you will need: nitrile gloves, Koford Medium Glue, solvent-friendly spray bottle, Lowes/Home Depot naphtha, shop rags helpers.

Use naphtha because it doesn't have fusel oils in it like Coleman fuel.

Put on some nitrile blue latex gloves.

Gather some racers and get them involved in track cleaning as a ritual they want to race it they clean the track.

Clean track using naphtha and shop rags.

Soak one rag with naphtha and wipe track in traffic direction constantly overturning rag and keep damp, doing a small section at a time.

Then imediately go back while still damp with dry rag and wipe again, overturning rag and in traffic direction (doesn't burr braid or catch rag fiber).

Get a quart spray bottle fill half full with naphtha then add bottle Koford Medium glue and shake. When dissoved fill remainder with naphtha to top.

Mix Koford Medium, it doesn't break down and turn into a slime pit later, keeps the rubber attached to it for all day racing.

Spray the corners (about two feet away)with a mist about a foot into straight and stop. Don't do straights.

Then let sit for 15-20 miutes to allow naphtha to evaporate some.

Its also important to practice on it for about a half hour each lane before racing to break the lanes in. Free track time moment.

Dispose of rags soaking in water and place in outside ventalated area. Spontaneous combustable.

[Phil Irvin]

VM&P..NAPHTHA... THE ONLY WAY TO FLY...

I use it for most everything. I will not use lighter fluid. It overly dries tires. I buy a quart at a time for home use and a gallon at a time for shop use. Whatever works better for you. Here in MO, Lowes doesn't have the "Spraymaster" in metal.

Phil I.

[grego]

I use Coleman fuel and STP on my home track, one part STP to five parts Coleman fuel.

STP make several products, like oil additive, fuel additive, upper cylinder head additive, etc., etc. Could you please tell me which product you are using?

Thanks,

[GB14x]

Advice from 40+ year racer Bob K. says to avoid Coleman fuel and red glue (too oily).

Maybe ask Mike at Tom Thumb Hobbies, his track is usually right on, and lasts all day.

[4laneron]

It is STP Oil Treatment.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi.

And add an ounce of methyl salycilate... aka "oil of Wintergreen" for that nostalgic smell!

Fate

[Garry]

controversy, controversy, the last time I looked at the formulation for coleman fuel it said it was 100% naptha, if its got anything else in it they are not reporting it. as for not putting oil in your spray glue mixture all of you commercially available glue has some kind of oil additive in it to reduce the rubber that is used to make the glue. therefore how do you get rid of the oil in the glue? use the thick stuff, camen brown, it may have the least amount of oil in it. if you want no oil in your spray glue you need to mix the raw rubber material with the solvent of your choice, naptha or coleman fuel. beware if you get the raw rubber and use it you will be stuck. the glue needs to have some kind of oil in it to work the way we need it.

[Rick]

controversy, controversy, the last time I looked at the formulation for coleman fuel it said it was 100% naptha, if its got anything else in it they are not reporting it. as for not putting oil in your spray glue mixture all of you commercially available glue has some kind of oil additive in it to reduce the rubber that is used to make the glue. therefore how do you get rid of the oil in the glue? use the thick stuff, camen brown, it may have the least amount of oil in it. if you want no oil in your spray glue you need to mix the raw rubber material with the solvent of your choice, naptha or coleman fuel. beware if you get the raw rubber and use it you will be stuck. the glue needs to have some kind of oil in it to work the way we need it.

2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS


INGREDIENT NAME
EXPOSURE LIMITS
CONCENTRAION
PERCENT BY VOLUME

Light Hydrotreated Distillate
CAS NUMBER: 68410-97-9
Petroleum Distillate (Naphtha)
TWA-400ppm
100.0%

[4laneron]

Hi

And add an ounce of Methel Salicilate...aka "oil of Wintergreen" for that nostalgic smell!

Fate

Back in the late 60's early 70's the track I raced at sold green grip it had that wintergreen smell

[Mark Wampler]

I don't know, but have you thought about a chemical free track?

Merry Christmas

[Arne Saknussem]

I clean my tracks with 100% Simple Green (no added water), thereby eliminating some of the stench and fire hazard. I spray the Simple Green on and let it sit for a minute or two, then wipe it off with clean rags. I wrap the rags around a sponge mop for leverage (and to save my aged back). I glue with the already mentioned Koford Medium. 1 bottle of glue to 1 qt. of the dreaded Naptha. Bite is never a problem and the track is comfortable to race on for about two weeks.

I spray the corners and about a foot into and out of each corner only.

In the dim past (circa the Retro Era) I used alcohol and castor oil.

[Tom Thumb Hobbies]

Advice from 40+ year racer Bob K. says to avoid Coleman fuel and red glue (too oily). Maybe ask Mike at Tom Thumb Hobbies, his track is usually right on, and lasts all day.

I have been using Camen brown and naptha for years. 2 bottles of brown to 1.5 quarts of naptha. The sprayer I have has been working for years without any problems and can be found here HERE !

[Tom Thumb Hobbies]

I'm no chemist but I was told by one that there are many grades of naphtha. There is even a "medical" grade... no idea what makes it "medical" except for the price. The grades are defined, so I am told, by the degree of purity during manufacture. I have not noticed a huge difference between VMP naptha and Coleman except it does seem to take longer to "slime" when using VMP, which is a good thing

[Michael Rigsby]

Raymond (Slapshot) has it right. That's the way we do our newly refurbished Oglivie. We were told not to use Coleman fuel on the epoxy surface, only to use pure naphtha for cleaning, and that was told to us by Oglivie. It works well for us. We even use the same glue formula that Ray pointed out. The nitrile gloves are a requirement as is good ventilation when cleaning and gluing. The gloves can be bought cheaply at Harbor Freight.

Michael Rigsby

[Rick]

I checked and Coleman Fuel now apears to be 100% naptha. ( as someone stated in this thread) Look at their MSDS sheet.

The Coleman Fuel I remembered from a while ago was white gas.( Like AMOCO Premium) I would trust most people today still remember that as being Coleman fuel.

I knew there would be many various opinions on how to do it right? I operated a track for 15 years and had a good reputation for always having good bite. And we raced locally everything from Playfit to Group 7 on occasion. I will still hang my hat on a LIGHT spray over the entire track and then redo the corners. No break in required, ZERO.

If you look at the different mixes and methods they all end up about the same. I don't prefer Koford over Camen. I used to colect up the thrown out glue bottles from big races and just combine them until I had a full bottle and then mix.

One thing none touched on, what to do when you over spray glue the track. It will happen now and then. Here's the cure for that. Grab something that has some nice fat tires on it, and enough torque to pull the glue and not burn up. Clean the tires real good with lighter fluid(naptha) and run some laps on the lane, clean tires again and repeat until you have sopped up the extra glue. Sure beats cleaning the whole track again...................

[Phil Irvin]

Usta do that with Nahptha to reactivate a 3 week ol spray. Had a LEAD sled with some 1 in wide 1 in diameter tires. Soak the tires. Run 5 laps move. get some racer (spelled sucker) to run right behind you do it again 8 lanes....

PHIL

[Michael Rigsby]

One thing none touched on, what to do when you over spray glue the track. It will happen now and then. Here's the cure for that. Grab something that has some nice fat tires on it, and enough torque to pull the glue and not burn up. Clean the tires real good with lighter fluid(naptha) and run some laps on the lane, clean tires again and repeat until you have sopped up the extra glue. Sure beats cleaning the whole track again...................

We do something very similar to what Rick has described here, only we do it with rental cars. The rental car fleet has the synthetic rubber tires that are very open pored. We cleaned the rental car tires and run a rental car on each lane for 100-150 laps cleaning the tires with naptha every so often. This helps spread the glue around and eliminate overly glued patches. That way no one burns up a 16D or S16D race motor by it getting overly bogged down. The Parma deathstar motors in the rentals can handle that job well and the synthetic rubber tires keep them from getting too hot, but they do work that glue around nicely and make it nice and even around the track.

Michael Rigsby

[M. Lovelace]

I have been using Camen brown and naptha for years. 2 bottles of brown to 1.5 quarts of naptha. The sprayer I have has been working for years without any problems and can be found here HERE !

Mike do you sell the Camen brown?

Thanks for the info.

Malcolm